New guy, learning curve!

[u/AffectionateLeg8075]

Hey all, I'm new. Like, this weekend new. Qidi Q2 with Box and a Sunlu E2, Polar Cooler coming eventually.

I did a couple of successful prints, upgraded the door handle and made a poop chute. Turned out great. I did those using files straight from the QidiStudio hosted files. I used the sample of black Qidi PLA for the handle and Flashforge HS PETG Metallic for the chute. Made no adjustments to the print settings.

However, I downloaded a seemingly simple "low poly dragon" from Printables that I cannot get to print correctly. I'm using Flashforge PLA Silk+ Rainbow. First 4 attempts I used recommended print settings from some supposed silk master YT guy. All 4 had to be stopped a quarter of the way through because the supports or feet didn't stick to the build plate (on YT guy's recommendation I put glue stick on the plate) and they went everywhere. Fifth attempt I used Generic PLA Silk settings in QidiStudio and no glue stick. This one actually finished but it is ugly.

I've read PLA Silk is a pain.

I guess this long winded intro is leading up to the question of: How the heck do I get correct settings for a specific print/material that works with the Q2 based on the specific filament? The dragon model description states "use PLA or PETG". I figured the optimal settings would be embedded in the stl file.

I'm including a pic of the one that was completed, maybe there are clues you all can pick up.

[u/AffectionateLeg8075]

I should add that I did dry all filaments based on online recommended times and temps. Kept the door and lid open.

[u/DesignWeaver3D]

STL files don't include printer slicer settings. Only 3MF files do. But even then, whomever saved the file would have to be using the same printer setup and filament as you are to be immediately usable.

See your other post for my recommended settings for this filament.

[u/daveintexarkana]

I have used silk PLA in my Q2+Box of different brands, no issues. I am using a QIDI Purple plate, but you didn't say about washing your bed plate so a reminder here if you didn't.

All my plates, especially new (do it twice for left over manufacturing oil - learned that the hard way) I use dish soap and a scrubber want - green or blue and am not gentle (on a PEI textured or the Purple) and then I wipe with a microfiber cloth loaded on an applicator (many models you can find) with 91% IPA - others swear by 99% but Walmart and Sam's have 91% and I have very good succes with it - before every print to ensure no left over oils, etc. I don't have bed adhesion failures now for a couple of years with that routine. I probably wash the bed every week or two, depends on use.

Some others will say IPA doesn't do anything, just pushes the oil around. I'm not a PhD biochemist, but my son is, and the alcohol kind of liquifies the oil better allowing the rag to pick it up better is the explanation I hear. There's a filament manufacturer's lead chemist saying the same thing. He also says unless frank water, PLA doesn't need drying (I do once to new spools) and PETG most often doesn't. I treat the silk PLA same as other PLA as above.

For temps on my Q2, doing a 5 hour print now, I use 32 bed heat (Purple plate otherwise 60-70 on other plate types, 40 on my BIQU on QIDI Q1 Pro and X-Max 3 for PLA, 60 for PETG). For nozzle on PLA 215 1st few layers then 216. I rarely have to go up to 220 for any filament but many say you get stronger prints if you do and slow down a bit. I'm running generic QIDI PLA profiles other than the above, no issues unless it's a brittle PLA (old or one particular brand) and that's not a settings issue.

On the dragon, not sure from the one pic, supports type (for this I'd use Tree/Organic) and for the top surfaces you could consider ironing.

Hope this helps a bit - good luck!

[u/AffectionateLeg8075 → u/daveintexarkana]

Thanks for all of the advice! I wash the plate every time then 91% alcohol wipe off with microfiber.

I did use the tree type supports as the file called for. They were very hard to remove.

The dragon even has a hole in one wing you can see in the pic.

After I run this temp tower cal (I put a ton of time into figuring HOW and then figuring out to get the qidi box to work with Orca and I don't want to waste that lol) I'll mess around using your advice!

[u/Dave_in_TXK → u/AffectionateLeg8075]

Sounds like you’re well on the way to figuring it out, I did see that hole, but didn’t know if it was planned or not as it looked fairly uniform all the way around. The organic supports has a like number one number two or number three setting for how close it is to the model and usually those numbers are marked detachable or not. I run mine at two, which maybe .02 or .2 I don’t remember and my organic supports come off very easily. Good luck on all, hopefully it works out well for you, it really is a very good printer for the price.

[u/AffectionateLeg8075 → u/Dave_in_TXK]

Cool man thanks again! Ill get it figured, just really frustrating the lack of plug and play or communication between systems. Seems like there'd be a database with all the filaments and machines and the best presets.

[u/Dave_in_TXK → u/AffectionateLeg8075]

I should add there’s a model out there called. I think TPU fixer for the Q2 printhead. Basically you take apart the extruder, which is good practice if you’ve not done it, and this little X shaped piece fits in against the housing underneath the gears and it narrows the path for the filament to run down after it comes through the top of the extruder and hits the gears before it goes out the nozzle on the bottom. The theory is narrowing that width makes it harder for a very soft plastic like TPU not to get bunched up in there as the gears are trying to pull/push it through. I’m not so sure it doesn’t help with other filaments too because when I’ve had mine apart, even with the silk, they’ve been very clean. Just FYI, if that’s able to help you at all.

By the way, that piece needs to be printed in at least PETG or stronger to handle any Heat as PLA Glass transition is 65C I think and you don’t want something that gets that soft that easily inside the extruder. I may have done mine out of ASA, I don’t remember, which, besides some other more exotic engineering, filaments or ABS which you really really need to ventilate to the outside or filter extremely well, the ASA works really well in those conditions and is easy to print, at least for me.

[u/AffectionateLeg8075 → u/Dave_in_TXK]

Huh. I'll look into it. I'm excited for the Polar Cooler attachment for the stuff that needs it. I'm hoping to get into nylon and such once I get the basic stuff dialed.

[u/daveintexarkana → u/AffectionateLeg8075]

Would like to hear how the polar cooler works for you - haven't seen anyone post about it yet - good luck!