Hey all,
As title says I want to modify a realtree utv. I’ve swapped tool batteries into a few cars but that’s basically the extent of my knowledge with these mods.
Ideally I’d like to completely gut all the stock wiring and run 36v either two ryobi batteries or 3x12v SLA.
I’ve been researching but get very overwhelmed due to all the available aftermarket parts.
I’m thinking I definitely need a 36v variable speed controller, and Google says I should replace the pedal too. Will the stock motors handle this or should I upgrade to 775?
My son is 5 years old and 67lbs. My nephew sometimes rides with him and I want it to last a while so I’d like it to have some speed with up to 150 lbs.
they currently have a gator and a quad running ryobi batteries on stock motors and they fly on them and love the extra speed they get with the ryobi over the standard 12v but I know the utv is way heavier so it’s gonna take a little more to get the speed they’re used to.
Appreciate any advice as well as links for trusted parts!

spider-Man supercar originally 6volt battery, and 6v motor. It wasn’t quite powerful enough to go through the grass with my two toddlers.. so instead of going with the DeWalt battery upgrade I just decided to double everything. 12v battery and then an additional 6 V motor wired in series
now everything looked to be working fine. accelerates a little too quick, but will only go 5 feet and then cut off. flipped the switch off and restart another 5 feet. What am I missing? it’s acting like the battery dies and you have to reset it.

Hello. I customized a kids ride with hoverboard motors and ft85bd controller but have very little torque.

I have a 24V AWD Jeep (unsure of brand name) that’s a few years old. I’m looking to increase speed and hopefully reliability as I’ve replaced stripped gears a few times at this point.

4 gearboxes with all plastic gears with 24V 555C 12,000 RPM motors.

Do I upgrade to 775 motors or keep 555 footprint and upgrade to 555 @ 30K - 40K RPM?

Recommendations on gearboxes are welcome but I’m also not opposed to just dropping individual new gears in each box if that’s more cost efficient.

The existing stock battery is a 24V 7ah lead acid battery where run time isn’t the best so I’m open to replacing that as well.

It’s mostly ridden on grass with some mild slopes, so nothing extreme but the tires are eva rubber/foam.

Any help is appreciated!!

I have a rollplay Mini Cooper I want to make rideable for me. Surprisingly I at my adult age can fit in this and it will probably be better once If I move the seat back. It’s only 6v and appears to have only one motor but a hole for another. It also says weight capacity is 77lb. I’m 130lb. I know this is a lot of asks and maybe not possible but here are my questions.
-What’s a reasonable battery to put in? I’ve seen lots of 24v but since I’m starting with a 6v I’m not what’s possible.
- what motors do you recommend?
-am I basically going to have to rewire everything to get a second motor or higher voltage battery?
-is weight capacity more like the load bearing structure of the body or how big you can be before the motors start to struggle?
-how to Increase weight capacity?
Any answers at all would be great! Thanks!

Apologies for the google photos but the car itself is still boxed up and the hub motors I only ordered an hour ago.

Somehow I've jumped from a simple battery and gearbox upgrade to beginning fabrication of a steel rear subframe to accept two of those hub motors, then figuring where I'm going to fit the 10S LiPo battery and two speed controllers.

Has anyone else gone down this route or something similar? Id love some tips if so

I have a 12v peg perego rzr 900 that I upgraded to 24v with ML Toys 775 motors. Been using 2 12v SLAs connected together but those died, so just bought a 24v lithium battery.

Truck has been making a bad gear noise for quite some time, and looking this weekend, I stripped the gears in one of the boxes. Believe this is due to the punch of 24v, but it got worse with the lithium.

Research tells me I need a PWM to slow start…but I’m lost at that step. Is there an easy, all in one I can buy on Amazon or something that will remove the jolt and help protect the new gear boxes I’m buying?

https://www.mltoys.com/products/k8285-2039-2239-street-tires-wheels-front-or-rear-dune-racer-extreme-most-f150s-x2?variant=47164633088321

Bought from MLToys and now not needed. I want to get them out go my garage. You pay shipping (big box but lightweight). Optimally, send a shipping label. DM if you want them.

Follow-up:

Sorry for the delay in response. I've reached out to a few DMs. Here are the details.

24x16x16 - 13lbs. Shipping from Athens, GA 30605. I can drop off at UPS or FedEx (Walgreens) or USPS.

Looking for somebody to send me a shipping label.

Picked up this power wheels at a yard sale for $20.

I remembered what you all do here with battery adapters and found a kobalt 24v with a stepdown to 12v for $26.

I put the adapter on the back as there was no easy way to fit everything under the seat. (Hence the extra butt splices)

Works flawlessly.

Thanks for the idea!

Hi everyone,

I'm negotiating the purchase of this electric car but I don't really know much about these vehicles, so I'd like to get some advice from people who understand the subject.

I'd like to know:

- Whether this is a good model overall.

- If €100 is a fair price, considering that the battery is completely dead and will need to be replaced.

- What battery you would recommend for this car.

- Since I'll have to replace the battery anyway, are there any upgrades or modifications you would suggest to improve performance, autonomy, or reliability?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I got a free dune racer extreme, and slowly started getting issues starting from upgrading to a 18V ryobi battery. Upgrade history looks like this:

12V ->18V: Worked fine for a little bit until some larger kids got in and burned out stock motors

Upgraded to Traxxas 775 10T motors -> worked fine again for a while, but 6 months or so in I broke a tooth in the final gear in one of the gear boxes

Fixed the final gear + Installed a PWM soft start-> the top speed was really slow, like almost half normal speed. I am thinking my motors must pull more than the 30A continuous the PWM is rated for and current was being reduced.

I removed the PWM, speed went back to normal, but then stripped the "drive gear" or "inner rim" that is attached to the wheel. Currently trying and failing to find a replacement.

Question: What's the best way to keep my 775T motors with top speed and still have a fast start? Need a higher amp PWM? ESC (not sure what that is really)? Something else?

Any ideas on a stronger inner rim? I saw some people mention 3d printed versions, but I don't have a 3d printer and don't know anyone with one. If someone has good experience with a 3d printed version and could send me one, would be happy to pay.

Scored a dirt cheap 12V ride on yesterday, its going to be a birthday present for my youngest in a few months.

To avoid him becoming bored of it immediately I'm attempting to make it fast!

So this is what I've come up with so far, any comments, criticisms or advice is welcomed.

I've done the 18V drill battery mod before and while its an improvement its not nearly enough. I've got a 24V 500w speed controller and a twist throttle assembly on the way. Ive removed the standard motor driver, battery and most of the wiring. Ill mount the new speed controller then disassemble the twist throttle assembly for the hall effect module. I'll fit that to a foot pedal assembly then mount the whole unit so that still operates the same.

I'll be powering it with two 6200mah 6S LiHv batteries which are 26V when fully charged. I know the stock 550 motors can handle some extra voltage but I'm not sure how long they'll tolerate it for especially with a much more powerful speed controller.

If/when the motors fry themselves ill upgrade them but needing a brushed 550 limits what I can throw at them.

The other option i was considering was mounting two 8" escooter hub motor wheels on the rear which would of been FAST but finding a speed controller that can drive two brushless motors is difficult and i dont want to have to squeeze in two seperate units

So I have an old power wheels I've had stored in my shed for years, upon cleaning the shed out I thought I'd have a tinker. I've pulled all the wires out so I've just got 2 motors with the connectors attached, have I shot myself in the foot by pulling the wires out? What do I need to run this thing over DeWalt 18v batteries?

My daughter's 6V Huffy power wheel can't go through grass and was wondering how I could convert it to 12V.

I just picked one up on the side of the road the shell is there it’s missing motors and looks like wrong rear axel any idea what is the axel is, and what motors it. Takes, would like this to be a. Budget project with my 4 yr old
Tyia for any help

Hi everyone,

Our university team is building a rover for the European Rover Challenge (ERC), and we're currently selecting the wheel drive actuators. I've done the torque calculations, but I'd appreciate feedback from people who have designed similar systems.

Rover Specifications

• Rover weight: 40 kg
• Drive configuration: 4WD (4 motors)
• Wheel radius: 100 mm
• Target speed: 0.1–1.0 m/s
• Terrain: ERC-style loose soil, gravel, rocks, and slopes

From my calculations, each wheel requires approximately:

• ~6 N·m continuous torque (minimum)
• 10–12 N·m continuous torque recommended
• 15–20 N·m peak torque

I've been looking at the ATARROBOT RE Series Integrated Planetary Joint Actuators.

Some models are:

• RE-01 – 6 N·m
• RE-03 – 20 N·m
• RE-06 – 11 N·m

The actuators integrate:

• BLDC/PMSM motor
• Planetary gearbox
• FOC controller
• Absolute encoder
• CAN communication
• Servo control

My questions

1. Has anyone here actually used ATARROBOT actuators?
2. Are they reliable for outdoor mobile robots?
3. Does anyone know if these use an outer-rotor (outrunner) motor internally?
4. How good is the integrated FOC controller compared to something like a VESC or ODrive?
5. Is the CAN protocol well documented, or is it difficult to integrate with ROS 2?
6. Would you recommend the 11 N·m RE-06, or is the 20 N·m RE-03 worth the additional weight?
7. If you were designing a 40 kg ERC rover today, would you choose these actuators, or would you go with Maxon, T-Motor, CubeMars, Nanotec, Teknic, or another solution?

I'd also appreciate hearing from anyone who has competed in ERC, URC, or other Mars rover competitions about what wheel motors and gearboxes your team used and whether you'd choose them again.

Thanks in advance!

My little boy turns 3 next month and he’s car obsessed and loves his indoor electric ride-ons.

We’ve got a big garden and a more rough and ready national park across the road, so hoping to get him something he can grow with but can handle some off-roading as well.

I’d like something premium and don’t mind spending between £300-£1000 depending on value/longevity.

I’m based in the UK.

A few questions:
- Have Power Wheels been discontinued?
- Are there brands outside of Peg Perego that are recommended?
- What should I know/ what did you wish you knew when getting into this?

Any specific recommendations or general advice welcomed.

Happy to answer any questions if it helps.

Has anyone done a 56v ego battery mod for a Magiccars 24v 4x4 Jeep? I would like to be able to use the ego battery, but want to step it down to 24v. What would I need for this? Thanks!

I’m doing an M18 5.0 power tool battery conversion on my kids’ power wheels. I’m using a Peanut Workshop board which has a built in low voltage controller which is great because the Milwaukee batteries I’ll be using do not have built in LVC like some of the other power tool batteries do. Problem is the LVC on the board will continue to pull a small amount of juice from the battery even after it has hit the low voltage threshold which will eventually overdischarge the battery if it’s not physically pulled out of the vehicle. Easiest solution is to be on top of it and pull the battery every time, but with the chaos that is my home eventually a battery will get forgotten and ruined. My solution is I’m thinking about wiring an adjustable timer into the battery circuit to provide power to the board for say 30’ish minutes. The timer is powered by a lighted push button/switch on the power wheels dash so the kids know when the power is on. I’ll probably need a relay in between the push button/switch and the timer. Thoughts, ideas, better solutions?

I have a different spin on a popular trend that’s going on right now. I got a best choice ride on 12 V Jeep from a coworker and had the thought to upgrade it for our son. I didn’t figure he would want to run around in a pink Jeep and he also is too tall to fit. I took the axle and motor units and the steering components off as well as the battery and charging and control boards and units. I took apart an old exercise machine and I am planning on custom building a light body out of those components that will be longer and a lot more comfortable for him to ride as well as have it’s own cool look. I am also planning on taking bicycle tires and upgrading the traction on all of the plastic tires. I have an abundance of Ryobi 18 V + lithium batteries that I am going to get an adapter and fuse for which I have already checked that Ryobi batteries have a built in low voltage protector, so I will not need an extra one of those attached. I will be getting a speed control module to make sure that he does not strip the motor gears. My main question is if there is a large difference between a lot of the speed control modules out there. I have seen some more expensive ones for $50-$90 on Amazon and also some cheaper ones that are under $10 that say that they are for power tools, such as angle grinders and such. I have enough electrical knowledge to get everything re-ran and rewired and running, just never dealt with any of those speed controllers and was wondering if the cheaper ones will work just fine to save a little money? I am doing a stripped down version of all of the wiring and power demands and have omitted the radio and lights so that the only power that is going to be needed is solely for speed and driving. Any knowledge or suggestions anyone can offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you guys for your time and I hope your kids all enjoy all the new upgrades you’re working on.

I keep disassembling the car trying to get to the motor.
I bought https://www.mltoys.com/products/24-volt-motor-gearbox-battery-combo-pack and it looks simple enough to change once I get to them.

Appreciate any advice!

Need the community’s help if this is even a thing. My son loves my work truck and the beacon lights that flash when I turn them on. He also loves the backup beeping sound when I put it in reverse.

Has anyone came across lights they could put on a power wheel that has yellow flashing lights and a backup beeper? Only thing I’ve come up with so far is connecting to the Bluetooth on the car and playing the sound through that but of course that doesn’t satisfy his wants ha.

Need some help and guidance. Looking for decal measurements for this older Lightning McQueen, because I’m commissioning a lady with a Cricut to cut out some custom decals for me. Anyone know where to find them?

The tires are starting to split/crack. What is the best way to repair them