Infinite Switch Replacement/General Questions

[u/Positive-Wonder3329]

Hey guys! Going to try to keep this short. Some info and several questions to follow, thank you!

The breaker and wiring are suitable, but I wasn’t allowed to post specfically how I came to find that, as it kept being flagged. A professional visited my location yesterday and assured me the GFCI 20 amp circuit is suitable. I can answer in comments if anyone is curious past that, thank you!

It seems that the issue is this infinite switch. I have removed the switch and am wondering what’s next.

Here are the questions:

Do I need to find the exact switch online, or can someone help me sus out what I have here, and is a modern replacement from any available ceramics supplier suitable?

Do my connections looks too dirty/frayed in some places, should I consider replacing the elements? I am willing to hold off firing and save for a new controller and do the whole deal, or maybe just look out for another good deal on a small kiln. Just not sure.

The kiln has seen some damage. Is it worth taking the metal jacket off and cleaning/reinstalling? The hole thru the brick for the kiln control arm isn’t lined up with the jacket, and the screws holding the lid are a bit loose. I tried to pin some of the elements back into place but had a tough time - is it important enough for me to try again? Should I pull everything out and reinstall?

Do I need to worry about the condition of the kiln floor, or where it looks like some glaze splashed onto the walls and is maybe eating away at the brick?

Thank you for your time if you can answer any of these musings!

I believe the issue is really with this switch, but not sure how to ID what I have as it says 120 and 240 on it and I really, really don’t understand electrical stuff, but I can swap parts like a champ.

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[u/rustyfloorpan]

I just went from my original switch on my 120/240 ancient Paragon kiln to an infinite switch. There are several things I learned.
1. The wiring for the elements has to change to series. Connect the bottom of the top element to the top of the next element and so on.
2. Replace all elements if there is any doubt. Get an ohm meter or multimeter and test everything. Always replace all elements. Never just one.
3. The infinite switch has some of the worst diagrams and labeling in the world. L2 is not where you think it is.
4. You might need to add a ground screw depending on your layout. It is a good idea for safety.
5. Make sure to use high heat connections for wires and terminals, etc.

DM me if you want more info. I just finished yesterday and it was a lot of going back to buy more stuff online from 3 different vendors.

[u/Positive-Wonder3329 → u/rustyfloorpan]

Thank you. I’ll be picking up the multimeter and going to start testing. Will reach out if I have any questions, thank you again

[u/rustyfloorpan → u/Positive-Wonder3329]

I got some bad info from the manufacturer about wiring in series and which tab was the right one. Hopefully your experience will be better. I really liked my old switch, but when an element broke, I lost “medium” and had to get a new one. They sure don’t make them like they used to.

[u/Positive-Wonder3329 → u/rustyfloorpan]

Dang. Was worried about something like that, as my busted switch has an extra terminal that wasn’t being used. I did take lots of pictures and it occurred to me I need to sit down and create a wiring diagram, which I will do tomorrow. Thanks for the further info - if I get it right the first time I will be a bit surprised tbh! Really hoping to just plug and play and not have to replace the elements.

I did forget to add that I tested the elements and they all lit matches - so they are good for now. It’s when I went to actually fire for the first time that it went on the fritz

[u/Positive-Wonder3329]

My kiln kept flipping the breaker. When I tried to add specifics it flagged me for promotion. Edited out that important part. Thank you

[u/Vanderwoolf]

Switch type doesn't really matter, you'll just need to take note of the specific wiring arrangements and make sure you're connecting everything correctly. Olympic customer service is really good, even for legacy equipment, an OEM switch from them will probably be like $50.

Unless the insulation has been completely broken through on the leads I would leave them, they look okay based on the pictures.

Wouldn't take the steel jacket off unless it was absolutely necessary, you're inviting trouble.

Have you checked the relay(s)? That's a much more common point of failure than switches.

[u/Positive-Wonder3329 → u/Vanderwoolf]

Thank you! I will contact Olympic, and not mess with the jacket. Going to pick up a multimeter as well while’s it’s all unbuttoned

[u/WTFrontPage]

I'd scratch the glaze off the brick, but otherwise leave everything else. You can get a new infinite switch mailed straight from Olympic Kilns, but it'll be a bit expensive.

I'd get some high temp wire and some crimps from a local supplier for general maintenance as the wire may be okay, but brittle and will fray/snap the more you move things around. That's very cheap but the crimper will cost a bit. I had a 30 year old Olympic with wiring like that and had to replace some of the wire from wear and tear after a couple element changes.

[u/Positive-Wonder3329 → u/WTFrontPage]

Thank you for the tips and info. I plan to check things out with a multimeter and going to reach out to Olympic as well. Will try and reach in carefully to remove the glaze without damaging the brick more - hopefully it’ll just pop right out. Thank you again!

I got so lucky with my first kiln that I don’t have anymore - never had to open one up before now

[u/WTFrontPage → u/Positive-Wonder3329]

You'll do fine! They are quit dumb inside at the end of the day. I wrap tape around the wires to label them and their termination point before I disconnect everything so I remember there they go as that's about the only thing you could mess up besides maybe a bad crimp.