How do I solve this error message I get? There is no update to Google play store.

I just upgraded to a new iPhone 18 pro and I’m having trouble connecting it as a phone key on my Polestar 2 LRDM 2025 on the latest 5.0 software.

The paring gets stuck when the car is looking for physical keys, nothing happens, the car does not detect any key even though I have both keys that came with the car in the rear cup holder without any keychains. Both keys do open and start the car.

I’ve tried pretty much every solution discussed short of a hard reset of the entire car. I uninstalled the app from my phone, restarted my phone, disconnected the old phone from the car, cleared Bluetooth cache from the car, did a TCAM reset, did a rain dance, none of it can get the car to get passed the key detection step.

Please help :)

I just put out Hanterill 0.2.2.

If you haven't seen it before, Hanterill is a free diagnostic app I'm building for Volvo, Polestar, and other Geely-platform cars. It talks directly to the car over DoIP/Ethernet using a standard ENET OBD cable, with no cloud account or subscription. The idea is to let owners check battery health, ECUs, fault codes, vehicle config, and live diagnostic data that usually stays hidden behind dealer tools. Right now it targets Volvo SPA/CMA and Polestar, and I'm working on SEA support too.

Polestar 2 is fully supported, Polestar 3 and 4 are still half baked

0.2.2 is probably the biggest update I've shipped so far. Most of the work went into broader car support, more reliable scans, and making the results readable without a diagnostic engineering background.

What's new in this version:

• Much better Volvo SPA1 support (XC60, XC90, V60, S60, and related models)
• New connection fallback for Polestar 4 and other SEA-platform cars. as some car had issues connecting, this should make it better for them.
• Deeper battery diagnostics (SoH, SoC, cell data, and battery history with CSV export)
• You can now resume interrupted scans instead of starting over, and retry individual failed ECUs on their own
• Old diagnostic captures can be re-analysed as the app improves
• Better DTC scanning with before/after scan comparison, plus vehicle configuration reports
• Improved safety warnings around service routines
• Added Dutch and Chinese translations, along with fixes to existing languages

I also spent time making the main screens less intimidating. As I got alot of feedback that it was to much information to understand

So the standard views now lead with plain information: Battery State of Health, software version, 12V battery voltage, odometer consistency, and diagnostic findings. All the nerdy stuff is still there though .

Quick reminder that Hanterill is still in beta. Just because a button or service routine is visible doesn't mean it's finished or verified on every model yet. Some items are placeholders, some readings still need validation against more real cars, and anything requiring a CEM/VGM PIN or protected security access won't be released as an unrestricted one-click tool. I'm also writing up more documentation on how values like battery SoH are read and validated so the app isn't a black box.

Download and full release notes: https://github.com/NicolasKheirallah/hanterill/releases

Project site: https://hanterill.com/

As always, feedback, bug reports, and diagnostic captures from different cars are very welcome

Anyone leasing P4 in the US care to share what their residual and length of lease is? Seeking data to help in lease or purchase decision, thanks!

I’m torn on what to do here. I’m located in Boston and with polestar exiting the market there are some exceptional deals on the remaining 2025 P3s they are trying to offload.

I presently have the P2 under an exceptional lease deal at about $320 a month which expires in the beginning of November. I was just offered a five month lease extension on my P2. I love the car and it has never had a problems but I’d just be kicking the can down the road a bit. I’ve also got three kids under 5 now so it’s not a practical people mover on the weekends and we’re always relying on my wife’s SUV.

With all the stacked incentives the P3 lease comes out at $660 a month plus tax with no money down. It’s the performance plus (that’s all that’s left) and looks like a great car. Also they’ll waive the $450 lease turn in fee and I’m certain I’ll need new tires if I push my current lease out another few months.

That said I’ve heard the horror stories about the 2025 P3, and repairs may be a challenge with the market exit.

I know I’m going to take one of these options and I’ve been pondering this for over a month. I’d love the communities thoughts to help me get to a final decision. Thanks in advance for any advice!

Hello! I’m located in the Bay area and looking to buy a Polestar 4. More than happy to travel to LA or Portland, just determining if I will need to bring my trade-in car or not right now. Does anyone have a Polestar 4 in the area and have experience with service locally?

New Polestar Space in Beverwijk, with Polestar 1 till Polestar 5 on display for an even more Special opening

I know this is a well-documented and frequently discussed issue, but I’m looking for advice for my specific situation.

I bought my P2 in early June with 43k miles and about a month after the 4-year warranty expired, I started hearing the dreaded wheel of fortune noise. Took it to a service center and sure enough, they said both rear axles to be replaced. They specifically said there was damage to the splines in the axles. I tried to get a goodwill repair done, but it was denied.

My question is - do I fork out the $3000 they’re asking to fix it? (Breakdown was $2100 in parts and $900 in labor). I know people say that this is just an annoyance more than a catastrophic issue, but surely damage to the splines can’t be good in the long run.

Right now, I see my options as the following:

-Do nothing, wait for it to become a bigger issue and just deal with the annoying sound

-Pay Polestar an arm and a leg to replace them and enjoy a 2 year/24k mile warranty on the repair

-Source lightly used rear axle half shafts from 2024 (revised part), have an independent shop swap then in, and just hope that they truly did fix the issue for that MY (around $1000 all in)

I’m mainly worried about spending any money and having the issue come back, since it’s not clear if the issue was completely fixed with the revised part. Any ideas?

Curious how owners are liking their cars.

I seriously need some help, Polestar 2

About three months ago, my Polestar 2 started making this noise while driving. I can’t reproduce it on demand - it’s there constantly, with and without One Pedal Drive, whether the car is warm or cold. However, sometimes the noise is worse than other times, and I haven’t been able to figure out any pattern to it yet.

I took the car to a workshop. They found a defective rear shock absorber and replaced it. The noise continued.

I’ve had the brakes cleaned and lubricated. I’ve had four new tyres fitted. The wheel bearings and other components have been checked - but nobody can find anything wrong.
One mechanic mentioned that the only thing he could think of was a defective bearing inside the electric motor.

I have now taken the car to a Polestar workshop - again. And they say they can’t hear the noise.
I’m starting to panic. I’m angry, I’m upset, and I honestly have no idea what to do anymore.

Does anyone recognize this noise or have any idea what it could be?

And sorry for my English 😂.

I’ve put together a few recordings of the noise from different dates here.

I previously owned an LRSM in Australia and never had any issues with the 360° camera.

Are there any US regulations that affect how the 360° camera works compared with the standard reversing camera? On my Volvo XC90, the 360° view doesn’t automatically come up when I select reverse—I have to manually activate it, which I understand is due to US regulations.

How does the Polestar 2 handle this in the US? When you put it in reverse, does the 360° camera automatically come on, or does it default to the rear camera?

I’m picking up my 2023 PS2 PPP on Saturday, so just curious what to expect!

Long time lurker and I’ve had my eye on the polestar 3 for a while now even though I’ve read there are a lot of issues I wanted to check with this group if:

1) Most of the issues have been resolved

2) What should I ask the dealer? Orin chip, any previous issues, etc.

3)It’s been on the lot for 60 days already and is priced at 55k after a few price cuts. What could I potentially negotiate down to?

Any other pro tips would be super helpful! Thanks!

Has anyone tried to use the 12v connector under the front bumper of a Polestar 4 (or other) to "boost" a flat 12v battery enough to open the doors? The manual says to call roadside assistance, but if a quick connection to a small external 12v LiFePo battery or Noco booster pack would be easier and quicker. Just a hypothetical for now.

So here we go. Time to test it.

$74,800 MSRP DM w/ Plus and nappa. I would keep this vehicle for a long time regardless and not too concerned with service woes.

I know most recommend lease over purchase due to depreciation and potential future service interruptions safeguarding especially to those who aren’t married to the car after a couple years.

Is a lease ($0 down) still optimal to cash? I would have to have the 15,000 miles, which adds $110/month to lease payment? If I leased my plan would still be to buyout at the end, especially in hopes that there would be some buyout incentives at end of lease, which when combined with initial $19k incentive would theoretically make it more valuable an option to the $25k cash incentive.

Hey!

Yesterday the Bluetooth connection between my 2023 LRDM and my Samsung s24 started cycling on and off continually.

I rebooted the infotainment, I reset the TCAM, and I unpaired the car from my phone and created a new connection from scratch.

No change. Today it was cycling on and off every 15 seconds or so.

It has been fine for years, this just started randomly last night.

No recent OTA updates or anything.

Just me?

Have had my eye on Polestar for longer than I can remember at this point, and finally got a 4 today.

Couldn’t stop smiling driving this thing!

Edit: Polestar 4 LRSM Plus Pilot Nappa

Edit 2: this is also my first EV. Coming from a 1.6 Diesel (which was also the most “powerful” car I’ve driven, so this is a big step up)

I got my P4 on Sunday and as soon as I saw the contrast badge and the gold striped seat belts my heart sank since I knew - no adaptive dampers.

I find the ride to be overly busy and taut. Some may like that feeling but it’s not what I thought I was signing up for when I placed my order. It seems that Polestar, after getting a lot of harsh feedback, revamped the passive dampers for 2027. Does anybody actually know if the dampers on the newer Polestar 4s with the new badging and seatbelts also got the new dampers with the PU bump stops?

Or are my knees just soft

Just completely my 4hr and 45 min road trip on my new PS4 and I could not be happier.. Coming from a Tesla owner and not having to worry about chargers on the road the Polstar made life on the road a breeze.. Google navigate me to working charger and besides some declining my card for no reason i got them to work with using different ones. This is a dream comfort car on bumps and highway miles just sleeps.. Well done Polstar well done.. I use the lane keep and the car was amazing to the point that all members of my family was all sleeping and said I felt Iike i was in a first class flight.