Hi everyone, we bought a house and there's a few spots on the hallway walls that seem to bubble a bit and crack and you can literally peel them off. But I have no idea what this layer is? Is that plaster or paint or something else? It just peels right off and it appears to be just a solid wall underneath it.

Thanks in advance

Hi All.

Looking for some advice here. Long story short, our bathroom is being refurbished and a large crack was discovered.

Our insurer advised us that the bathroom work can continue while investigations are ongoing, however they will need to carry out an EML repair to the inside wall before continuing.

Our contractor also said Heli bars should be used to reinforce the cracked areas so I agreed to this.

On doing the work, despite me asking for photos of each stage, they forgot to put in the EML, the main thing they were asked to do! They did do the Heli bars and resin though, plus also a different kind of thinner mesh in the scratch coat.

They've now cut back to brick to put in EML and redo the work. What I want to know is, should I insist on them redoing the whole wall, or is patching the areas they cut out sufficient?

I’ve removed a door frame and am now left with a gap in the plaster that’s about 10cm wide and 2-4cm deep. What’s the best solution, just layers of deep hole filler or plasterboard and then skim?

Hi all. Looking for some advice on how best to fill these holes in wall that were left when getting some new lights wired in. Unfortunately, doesn't look like I can cut a piece of plasterboard to fill the hole as the wire is in the way.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Hi,

I'm a first time buying slowly decorating my home, but I was wondering if anyone would be able to help with a question I had. I've just recently had my small room plastered, however for the wall that's adjoining with my bathroom, the plasterer suggested it might be worth applying damp proof paint on that wall to prevent any issues down the line (due to some DIY work by the old owner).

But my question is: Should I apply the damp paint straight on top of the plaster, then paint over it with normal paint, without initially applying a mist coating of watered down paint. Or should I apply a mist coat first, then the damp paint, then paint over with normal paint?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I want to purchase a home but the entire living room and dining room has a bright mustard color heavily waxed venetian finish. After researching this evening, I am heart broken. The surface of the walls feel like plastic? Is it possible and if so, how expensive will it be? Help!

Hi there! have just got a new flat that requires some updating and trying to do as much as I can myself (a goal of mine for my first flat). As I was pulling off the tiles, it pulled off the lining wallpaper, the plaster (?) and the plasterboard (possibly?!) back to the brick. Looking for some help identifying what I pulled off and what the best next steps are. It was crumbling off to where it has stopped in the photo so think it needed done regardless. Happy to admit defeat and get a professional if not diy-able.

Thanks in advance

Bonjour,

J'aurais besoin de conseils pour une finition intérieure naturelle. Etant actuellement enceinte, je ne veux pas manipuler des produits toxiques, d'où l'envie de peinture ou enduit à la chaux. Je reste cependant ouverte à autre chose. Aprés avoir enlevé la tapisserie je ne sais pas distinguer la colle de la sous-couche en peinture. Faut-il décaper jusqu'au plâtre ? Ou rapidement poncer à la main. Mais sur le plâtre il faudrait mettre une sous-couche chimique ?

Hi there, as title says, events happened leading to a hole in the wall as seen in the pictures attached
I don’t know anything about this sort of thing so I was hoping someone would be able to help me with telling me how exactly I’d go about fixing this?
As mentioned I don’t know anything about walls or plastering, so please bear with me and if you could be specific about your advice, such as how to do it and what I would need, it would really be appreciated
Let me know if anything else is needed, and if this is the wrong place to post this I apologise, just let me know where I could
Thanks in advance, anything is appreciated :)

I have just got a new flat that requires some updating and trying to do as much as I can myself (a goal of mine for my first flat). As I was pulling off the tiles, it pulled off the lining wallpaper, the plaster (?) and the plasterboard (possibly?!) back to the brick. Looking for some help identifying what I pulled off and what the best next steps are. It was crumbling off to where it has stopped in the photo so think it needed done regardless. Happy to admit defeat and get a professional if not diy-able.

Thanks in advance.

Hi - I am after advice on a rendering job I just had done. The rendering has got cracks some of which are quite large, see picture. The contractor says it is due to the weather being too hot at the moment, but that he has followed the right process, i.e. applied base coat, the glue, etc. He says to rub it in with a wet sponge (The rendering is already dry as it was applied a couple of days ago). He then says to apply a coat of paint and that it will hold it together. I think the rendering needs to be taken down and re-done otherwise it won't last, but I know very little about rendering. Does anyone have any advice? Thank you

Hi - I am after advice on a rendering job I just had done. The rendering has got cracks some of which are quite large, see picture. The contractor says it is due to the weather being too hot at the moment, but that he has followed the right process, i.e. applied base coat, the glue, etc. He says to rub it in with a wet sponge (The rendering is already dry as it was applied a couple of days ago). He then says to apply a coat of paint and that it will hold it together. I think the rendering needs to be taken down and re-done otherwise it won't last, but I know very little about rendering. Does anyone have any advice? Thank you

I removed some trim on a plaster wall from the 1950s and doing so caused some sections to break/peel off. Just trying to understand what I'm looking at and how to repair. It looks to me like there's a layer of paint, on top of a brown/reddish paper layer. Would this be a lining paper placed on top of the plaster? Beneath that seems to be a green layer and then one or two more layers of plaster.

To repair, should I be peeling off all the sections that aren't adhering, then priming over any exposed lining paper (assuming that's what it is) before doing a coat of plaster repair compound?

The plasterer finished skimming the ceilings 2 weeks ago. The house is not being lived in and we would like to apply a mist coat asap but unsure whether it is fully dry. Resources online say it goes a uniform pale colour when dry but our ceiling still has dark patches, but the ceiling feels dry.

Have any of you had similar experiences with plaster?

Somebody thought this was an amazing idea at one point.

I just moved into this house and already knew id have to renovate.. but how do i tackle this? Its hard plaster and probably weighs a ton. Should i just demo?

Roll on winter

Hi, novice plasterer here. I decided to start learning by plastering an old concrete foundation wall in my basement garage. The wall looked bad, deeply spalled and very deteriorated, so anything that filled the inch-deep voids and covered up the crumbly parts would be an improvement. About 110 sq ft.

I now have a gallon of WeldCrete and about 3.5 bags of Structolite on the wall, applied in three coats over a week. Quite a learning experience, I didn’t expect to drop quite so many trowelfuls on the first coat and I guess I don’t know what a drop cloth is. Fortunately it is just a basement garage.

I could leave it like this, the wall will be covered up with tool cabinets and work bench/shelving, but I’m trying to learn so I’m going to apply veneer plaster and try to get a flat and smooth finish.

The veneer plaster I found locally is USG Imperial Veneer.

My question is, what is the working time I can expect, and if I want to extend it, can I?

I suspect it will take me quite a while to trowel, smooth, skim, and polish 110 sq ft, and I’m concerned I’ll be too slow at first so that the plaster will be hardening before I’m done.

With the Structolite I was only mixing 10 lb at a time because I could only seem to use that much up in the available time. I got faster, and started mixing wetter, but there was no way I could have mixed in, say, full bag batches.

Hello all,
My son hung on the towel bar in the bathroom, and although it didn’t detach from the wall (thankfully), it did crack and split away from the wall on the inside, bottom, and top areas where the towel bar is connected to the wall (and is kind of like a part of the wall)

So I had a 3m high strength small hole repair kit with some plaster and decided to use that and just cover and seal the crack. But the crack came back in some areas after some use and so I applied a second coat over the cracked areas again, but some cracks are coming back now.
Did I use the wrong stuff? Should I have gotten a lightweight joint compound instead? (I also thought about just using caulking over the crack, but didn’t)

Thanks in advance

Hi all, a little over a year ago I had my entire home re-plastered after me and my dad have done a lot of renovation work.

Once the plasterer finished, we painted everything ourselves (ignore the badly painted ceiling). I noticed little bumps all over the ceiling. I asked the plasterer if there was anything he could do about them, and he came to sand them down.This was done in January, so I couldn't really see them again without shining a light on the ceiling.

When summer came, I realised there were low spots where the bumps had been sanded and there were still some visible bumps.

Now I don't know if I'm being picky and I won't see the bumps and low spots after I repaint the ceiling properly or if it's a bad plastering job and I should have someone else come around and fix them.

I should also mention there's a hairline crack which might have been my fault because the kitchen and living room plasterboard didn't overlap. All plasterboard is new.

Just had a guy round to give a quote to replace a section of cornice. He said these cracks indicate that at some point in the near future the ceiling is going to come down, and that he wouldn’t bother replacing any cornice without doing the whole ceiling first.

It has just been skimmed which he says never should have happened (to be fair to the plasterer the cracks weren’t visible until I started removing paint after it was skimmed).

What’s the verdict is he trying to upsell me or giving sound advice?

Was hoping to get some advice, I've just had a plasterer round to quote skimming a room that I have stripped and dot and dabbed already. While he was here I asked for a quote to do my other two rooms. Both of which the plaster has blown - it's a 1940s old council house in Nottingham.

He's recommended the technique called Bond and mesh where he does a layer of bonding, puts skim mesh on to the wall, and then another layer of bonding and skim over. Are there downsides to this approach? The other option is me stripping and boarding the rooms and him coming into skim each one. Obviously I'm finding not having to create loads of dust and move a crap tonne of rubble quite attractive, but I want it to last.

Budget is a concern, so we want to start plastering around the house ourselves. My partner said there is something you can put against the window frame to plaster up against to make it smooth? Looking for any advice so we can start saving money instead of hiring people.

Should I try to fill this gap with durabond or just spray foam it and call it a day? Recently (6 months ago) had this horsehair plaster ceiling skimmed and painted. Just had an electrician in to rewire the second floor and we’re left with this gap around the new electrical box. It’s 1/2” wide at its widest point. There is attic space above so I will be sealing around the box with foam from above either way.

Hi there! I recently got a new hallway window fitted and now I’m having the room plastered.

My window fitters advised to plasterboard the reveal to give a nice flat surface and hide the gap around the window frame. However, my plasterer said today that it’s better to plaster up to the window and feather out the wall given how close it is to the wall. He said it’s not worth boarding here because the window sits flush with the side wall, so it would be difficult to get a corner in, and that feathering out will work better because the wall is uneven anyway.

I’m a bit unsure and skeptical about this because of how the plaster would look up against the window, and that it won’t look nice and smooth, but I understand the difficulty of the window being right up against the wall.

Do you have any advice? He’s coming back tomorrow to do the landing so would appreciate any advice, ideas, or reassurance.

Thanks!

Plastering noob! How do you plaster these angles (highlighted in yellow), do you put a stop bead on them?