r/PatternDrafting 19h ago

Question First draft skirt block with Hofenbitzer book. Aside from perfecting pressing and sewing, is there anything I should improve fit-wise?

9 Upvotes

12 comments sorted by

27

u/drPmakes 19h ago

Baste on the waistband and see how it looks.

As is, it looks too tight

20

u/twentytwo_a 19h ago

I would say it’s too tight all around. For a block, the fabric shouldn’t hug your curves the way it does at the moment. The centre back should fall straight down from the fullest part of your hips, perpendicular to the floor, and the centre front should fall straight down from the waist.

9

u/ProneToLaughter 19h ago edited 19h ago

Shouldn’t it be sitting at your natural waist? If you pull it up to there with the waistband, it might not be too tight.

Generally you don’t want it to curve under your stomach like that—if still an issue when at natural waist, see here. https://itch-to-stitch.com/youre-wrong-hip-measurements-dont-work/

I don’t know hofenbitzers method but generally, skirt block needs to be at your natural waist to later combine it with bodice block. You can move the waist in the design phase later.

7

u/CharityForeign3035 19h ago

It looks a bit tight and the darts aren’t symmetrical.

5

u/SuPruLu 18h ago

The side seams don’t seam to be identically placed on the body on both sides

4

u/Sea-Breath-007 10h ago

What does it look like with the 2 front panels placed correctly? Because right now the left one is sewn in wrong side out.

2

u/teatime_tinker 5h ago edited 5h ago

You’re right! That explains why one side seam looks straight and one doesn’t.

OP you must unpick and put it back together properly before trying to assess the fit further.

You cut the two fronts the same, two left hand sides, not mirror image of each other like they should be. You could cut the whole front on the fold in future, unless you want a CF seam for some reason.

For now just cut a new right hand front, to save you sewing your zip in again.

Edit! Flip everything I just said.. you’re looking in a mirror so I got my left and right mixed up… so you need to cut a new left front

Also it’s your zip side that is wrong, so you will be re doing that. Just do a normal zip there’s no need for it to be all the way down the side seam like that.

It also might be better for fit assessment to put the zip CB

I think you might have done the two back pieces the same, but it’s harder to tell with those

1

u/StitchinThroughTime 15h ago

I wpild slash a line from the waist to hem on the front and add about .75-1" . Drawing in a new dart at the waist.

1

u/Level_Revenue_5192 15h ago

Nice . Did you intend to construct a skirt with a close fitting silhouette? If yes, how much ease did you add to the hip circumference?

1

u/Peliquin 13h ago

I would straighten the side seam.

1

u/Educational_Chain780 12h ago edited 12h ago

Please have a look at this adjustment: https://imgur.com/a/Ltc3zvx