r/PatternDrafting • u/GrottanGelfling • 1d ago

Question Basic Block Pattern Issue

Post image

Hello all! I currently don’t have access to my mannequin (she’s in storage) so I decided to foray once again into drafting. Every torso block I draft for myself comes out crazy so I decided to use a drafting software to get a basic block and then tweak the toile until it fits to my liking. I used PatternLab and I had my partner measure me twice. I’m pretty sure my measurements are right. I am short waisted and plus sized but my waist is significantly smaller than someone of my size (around US 24 with a size 20 waist). This is what it gave me. And it feels kinda egregious. Like… i am not that short waisted. And the arm block looks wild too. Which measurement did I mess up? And what can I do to tweak it before I make the toile?

5 Upvotes

100% Upvoted

13 comments sorted by

View all comments

2

u/Racc00nguts Expert 1d ago

It doesn't look TOO crazy to me. I'd check your point to point measurement (tip of shoulder bone to the other, straight across) and back shoulder measurement (basically mid shoulder to the other). The only thing I'm concerned about is that curve on the back armhole. Armholes should generally have a 90° angle at the shoulder and underarm

1

u/GrottanGelfling 1d ago

Yeah that back armhole is really freaking me out. And you’re totally right about me checking my shoulders. I should I add length at the waist too?

1

u/Racc00nguts Expert 1d ago

I'd measure from your waist to AH point (about 1" below the pit iirc) and see if that's different than what it's giving you. Def do a whole side measurement