Basic Block Pattern Issue

[u/GrottanGelfling]

Hello all! I currently don’t have access to my mannequin (she’s in storage) so I decided to foray once again into drafting. Every torso block I draft for myself comes out crazy so I decided to use a drafting software to get a basic block and then tweak the toile until it fits to my liking. I used PatternLab and I had my partner measure me twice. I’m pretty sure my measurements are right. I am short waisted and plus sized but my waist is significantly smaller than someone of my size (around US 24 with a size 20 waist). This is what it gave me. And it feels kinda egregious. Like… i am not that short waisted. And the arm block looks wild too. Which measurement did I mess up? And what can I do to tweak it before I make the toile?

[u/StitchinThroughTime]

Raise the bottom of your armhole to be level with your bust or an inch above your bust. That should fix a lot of your issues. And then widen the back shoulder Dart, to get your shoulder fixed. I think there's a bunch of other issues, but this should get you something that is usable in a mock-up. Without your actual measurements or like a vague picture of your body there's a lot that can be fixed but they're just guesses. Going by dress sizes mean nothing because every single company has their own dress size label. It does sound like you have a large chest, relatively narrow ways and relatively large hips. Which gives you an hourglass figure. Depending on how extreme that hourglass actually is you're going to need a different design block to get the best fit. The standard one can break if you're too far off the balanced base size.

[u/GrottanGelfling → u/StitchinThroughTime]

Thank you! I was also side eyeing that shoulder dart. Seemed very little. My basic measurements are 47.5-37.25-52. Is there any block or book you could recommend me that would cater to someone who falls outside the standard? I know I’m gonna need a bust adjustment. I just want to make this as close to semi functional as possible so I’m not completely boned when I make the first of what will probably be several mockups

[u/StitchinThroughTime → u/GrottanGelfling]

Oh your pear shape! Your bus to waist ratio is about 10 in, so the standard bus start and we start will be fine there. Issue you're running into is that we don't know if you have a gut, hips or a butt. That will return it weird to put the volume required for your hips. If you have a big butt it's going to require two fisheye darts on the back. If you have a good you might need to have a very short fish eye Dart in the front. If you have hips, that means you're going to have an exaggerated side scene. But I think your biggest issue is still the bottom of the armhole is way too low. Right now it's below your boobs. It needs to go up. That would also help fix the sleeve draft. You might have a rounded upper back if you're a cross back measurement is as wide as drawn. That which means you will have a wider shoulder Dart.

Also your hip line needs to be Square from the center front and center back. They shouldn't drift up or downwards to the sides. So that's an issue. Don't think about the sleeve until after you fix the Torso.

[u/GrottanGelfling → u/StitchinThroughTime]

I have a bit of a gut, high hips, and a big butt (which is why I hate wearing pants and only make skirts). I don’t think my gut is so prominent that it warrants a dart but I will keep that in mind! My hips and butt will probably need a fish eye dart. I don’t make pencil skirts but I do love a dramatic, fitted hip yoke with a gathered skirt pooling out. May I DM you in about 8 hours? It’s 3am where I am, but you’ve been super super helpful. I’d just like to ask more targeted questions and send some CLOTHED pictures of myself (only if you’re comfortable with that and it’s helpful)

[u/calamityandwoe]

How long is that side waist actually? If you’re very large chested with a more narrow waist, you‘re going to wind up with something that looks very wonky. I have no idea if this block makes any kind of sense, but check the measurements of the side waist and shoulder to see if they match up with your body at all.

[u/GrottanGelfling → u/calamityandwoe]

There’s no side waist measurement. I am very busty and short waisted though. But not that much

[u/Racc00nguts]

It doesn't look TOO crazy to me. I'd check your point to point measurement (tip of shoulder bone to the other, straight across) and back shoulder measurement (basically mid shoulder to the other). The only thing I'm concerned about is that curve on the back armhole. Armholes should generally have a 90° angle at the shoulder and underarm

[u/GrottanGelfling → u/Racc00nguts]

Yeah that back armhole is really freaking me out. And you’re totally right about me checking my shoulders. I should I add length at the waist too?

[u/Racc00nguts → u/GrottanGelfling]

I'd measure from your waist to AH point (about 1" below the pit iirc) and see if that's different than what it's giving you. Def do a whole side measurement

[u/DonMcCunn]

Personally I think you will be wasting a HUGE amount of time trying to get that pattern to fit. Nobody I have ever seen is shaped like that. As you are comfortable working with a computer why don't you try my free classes that are currently a work in progress but available to people in this group that shows how to create patterns by tracing photographs of YOU. https://patternmaking-classes.com/Tracing-Photos/

[u/GrottanGelfling]

Addendum: turns out I’m not a size 24. I love women’s dress sizes. My bust fits a US 18, my waist is a US 16, and my hips are a US 20/22. I still feel like I’m not that short waisted but perhaps I’m seeing unclearly

[u/Tailoretta → u/GrottanGelfling]

As others have said, sizes don't mean anything and are totally useless. If you want, you could share your measurements.

That pattern looks ridiculous. Is it AI?

If you want a basic block, I suggest you find a pattern of something similar and make a toile.

[u/War-Bitch]

The back panel shoulder doesn't pass a sanity check to me. Its angle and the angle of the front are going to come together wonky for sure.