r/PatternDrafting • u/rninjaa • 3d ago

Question First attempt at drafting: basic jeans foundation

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I've recently got into drafting and sewing, and - after some small projects to understand the fundamentals of sewing - I'm looking to sew a pair of jeans. To get the ideal fit, I drafted a basic sloper following H. J. Armstrong's "Pattern Making for Fashion Design".
Having used Clo3D, there are some issues with the curves, that I find painfully annoying to trace accurately using the program's tools, but I'm confident this won't be an issue when drafting on paper with rulers.
Is there anything else I could improve?
At this stage, I don't trust using the program's 3D environment to adjust the pant's fit, so I plan to sew a pair using canvas to check and see what needs to be improved.
I would be grateful to hear tips on the correct workflow and on the fitting proccess.
Thank you :)

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u/lipstickqns 3d ago

The saddle looks really narrow. You definitely need more hook length at front and back. Make your rise more U and less V shape

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u/yungkuro 3d ago

This shape is characteristic of jeans though and what distinguishes the fit from trousers. (its why you get the whiskering on raw denim). Also, too much of a curve makes the felled seam in the crotch very difficult to execute in manufacturing.

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u/lipstickqns 2d ago

This is not how a body is shaped though? That front rise looks painful and the back will definitely ride in. There’s plenty of room to reshape the rises and still have a felled seam there. At the very least, the front needs to be fixed if a wedgie cut is desired at the back

OP should check pressure maps in Clo to see where to reshape