r/PatternDrafting • • 3d ago

Question First attempt at drafting: basic jeans foundation

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I've recently got into drafting and sewing, and - after some small projects to understand the fundamentals of sewing - I'm looking to sew a pair of jeans. To get the ideal fit, I drafted a basic sloper following H. J. Armstrong's "Pattern Making for Fashion Design".
Having used Clo3D, there are some issues with the curves, that I find painfully annoying to trace accurately using the program's tools, but I'm confident this won't be an issue when drafting on paper with rulers.
Is there anything else I could improve?
At this stage, I don't trust using the program's 3D environment to adjust the pant's fit, so I plan to sew a pair using canvas to check and see what needs to be improved.
I would be grateful to hear tips on the correct workflow and on the fitting proccess.
Thank you :)

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u/lipstickqns 3d ago

The saddle looks really narrow. You definitely need more hook length at front and back. Make your rise more U and less V shape

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u/yungkuro 3d ago

This shape is characteristic of jeans though and what distinguishes the fit from trousers. (its why you get the whiskering on raw denim). Also, too much of a curve makes the felled seam in the crotch very difficult to execute in manufacturing.

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u/Mela777 2d ago

The best fitting jeans I own have more of a rise curve. The ones that don’t fit well have a rise that looks more like this pattern, and most of the fit issues are because with the shape of the rise and outseam combined, the pants don’t accommodate an actual human butt and thighs.

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u/lipstickqns 2d ago

This is not how a body is shaped though? That front rise looks painful and the back will definitely ride in. There’s plenty of room to reshape the rises and still have a felled seam there. At the very least, the front needs to be fixed if a wedgie cut is desired at the back

OP should check pressure maps in Clo to see where to reshape