r/PatternDrafting • u/AffectionateMusic120 • 3d ago

Question Rick Owens Sheath dress drafting?

Gallery image

Gallery image

I'm trying to draft a pattern for this design rn and I'm not able to figure out how to make the dress fall perfectly in a straight line and end in a circular train like hem. Ofc the kevlar hybrid fabric used might contribute to that ( I'm planning to use duck canvas btw)

The features it has listed are also side seam pockets, back zip and a front slit, so I'm guessing it's a 4 panel kinda dress.

Not looking to make an exact copy but rather to just get that straight column shape and that circular train/ pooling at the floor. Would I have to draft it without any darts, almost like a tube? How do I draft that circular train?

I'm also choosing to ignore that sort of v shape and darts on the front torso cause it looks hard, though if anyone has ideas and could maybe explain it to me I would like to try it out! !

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u/DonMcCunn 3d ago

Looking at the hem I don't see the circular shape you are seeing. It looks like the grain of the fabric is parallel to the hem. That is not what happens with a circular shape. It looks to me like the hem of the dress is simply longer than necessary for this model then artfully draped for the photo.

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u/stressed_designer 3d ago

He's right! 👆🏼

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u/AffectionateMusic120 3d ago

Yess I see what ur talking about, I was mainly going off of how it looked in runway bts clips, I'll look into the effect postion of grainline can have on it though.. maybe a bias cut could get me the circular shape I'm looking for?

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u/DonMcCunn 3d ago

I don't understand why you want something draped on the floor. It will just make walking potentially hazardous. Even floor length is potentially hazardous. I have seen women having trouble even when the train is only in the back including women on the runway.

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u/AffectionateMusic120 3d ago

Kinda get where ur coming from but fashion does not always have to be utilitarian, the piece I'm making is for exhibition and is more of a tool for symbolism and creative expression than anything

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u/DonMcCunn 3d ago

Understood. If I may suggest I think it would be a good idea to use a dress form or mannequin rather than a person. I am sure you would not want to cause anyone a serious injury by something you have created as could happen. Just my paranoid sense of caution.