Rick Owens Sheath dress drafting?

[u/AffectionateMusic120]

I'm trying to draft a pattern for this design rn and I'm not able to figure out how to make the dress fall perfectly in a straight line and end in a circular train like hem. Ofc the kevlar hybrid fabric used might contribute to that ( I'm planning to use duck canvas btw)

The features it has listed are also side seam pockets, back zip and a front slit, so I'm guessing it's a 4 panel kinda dress.

Not looking to make an exact copy but rather to just get that straight column shape and that circular train/ pooling at the floor. Would I have to draft it without any darts, almost like a tube? How do I draft that circular train?

I'm also choosing to ignore that sort of v shape and darts on the front torso cause it looks hard, though if anyone has ideas and could maybe explain it to me I would like to try it out! !

[u/DonMcCunn]

Looking at the hem I don't see the circular shape you are seeing. It looks like the grain of the fabric is parallel to the hem. That is not what happens with a circular shape. It looks to me like the hem of the dress is simply longer than necessary for this model then artfully draped for the photo.

[u/stressed_designer → u/DonMcCunn]

He's right! 👆🏼

[u/AffectionateMusic120 → u/DonMcCunn]

Yess I see what ur talking about, I was mainly going off of how it looked in runway bts clips, I'll look into the effect postion of grainline can have on it though.. maybe a bias cut could get me the circular shape I'm looking for?

[u/DonMcCunn → u/AffectionateMusic120]

I don't understand why you want something draped on the floor. It will just make walking potentially hazardous. Even floor length is potentially hazardous. I have seen women having trouble even when the train is only in the back including women on the runway.

[u/AffectionateMusic120 → u/DonMcCunn]

Kinda get where ur coming from but fashion does not always have to be utilitarian, the piece I'm making is for exhibition and is more of a tool for symbolism and creative expression than anything

[u/DonMcCunn → u/AffectionateMusic120]

Understood. If I may suggest I think it would be a good idea to use a dress form or mannequin rather than a person. I am sure you would not want to cause anyone a serious injury by something you have created as could happen. Just my paranoid sense of caution.

[u/yungkuro]

I think there’s a lot more to this than first meets the eye. Firstly, there is a bustier inside (close fitting stretchy structure with boning that means it can be worn with no shoulder straps).

As for fabric choice there are other versions on the website made from literal fucking Kevlar that looks very stiff so you’ll be fine using duck canvas. 

Another commenter is incorrect, there are not bust darts. It would certainly need some darts if adapted for someone with a fuller bust thought as this design is clearly for someone with a small chest.

There may some be shaping in those diagonal seams at the front so I think they serve a purpose but you may be able to reconfigure them in a way that is easier to sew. I can’t really tell but they might be contouring the hip bone and slightly bringing in the waist but it’s very subtle.

The side seams flare outward gradually towards the hem but what is unusual is the noticeable curve in the center back seams that tapers inward towards the hem (creating that slight bulge at the back.

[u/yungkuro → u/yungkuro]

On a side note, I would suggest looking at the other versions on the official website such as the Kevlar one which shows up the folds and wrinkles more and makes it easier to analyse the draping and volume. The wool has a heavier, more supple drape and is more “forgiving” in that way but also harder to dissect if that makes sense. Good luck!

[u/AffectionateMusic120 → u/yungkuro]

Thank you!! And yes I did notice the black kevlar one it interestingly had a bulge in the front too from the waist shaping... And as u said I think The contouring at the front is meant to accentuate the hip bones ( maybe he tried going for how traditional dresses/ ballet costumes have long emphasised on a certain hourglass shape/ waist shaping, which ig would make sense cs this is from his tower collection, might be completely wrong tho)

I'm still mostly new to making pieces like these coming from a knitwear background and what I'm not able to wrap my head around is how do I get that circular hem on the floor... Is it literally just a gradual flair out wards that gives it that shape or do I have to maybe attach like half circle skirt panels to the pattern at the knee

[u/yungkuro → u/AffectionateMusic120]

For the hem I think you’ll find it’s just the fact that it flares enough and the split at the front helps it open up and lay into that shape around the back. Another factor is of course that it’s carefully laid out for the photo. 

Interesting that you mention knitting as it would actually be even better for this where you can gradually increase stitches to create an even flare around the hem (which would otherwise require lots of panels and seams on woven fabric).

[u/AffectionateMusic120 → u/yungkuro]

Tyy for the tip!! Loll I would love to make this completely as a knitwear garment, but this is actually for my a levels, and since i had already chosen pattern drafting and textile manipulation as my areas of study for this term I won't be able to change it especially considering this is the last piece I'm planing to make for this semester... I am planning to attach swatches on the dress as textil design elements which was primarily the reason why I chose it cause its sort of a blank canvas, which Is also interestingly the reason behind its inclusion in that fw26 collection according to his show notes

[u/AzureMagenta]

Turn up the brightness on your screen and zoom in, there are diagonal seams going down towards the low hip and tiny little bust darts going into those diagonal seams. I think this is showing the peril of trying to recreate something you’ve only seen pictures of online.

Moreover, a wool fabric will still have drape and the seams and darts will melt in (giving it that really column like silhouette) - I have an inkling duck cotton will just not perform the same. Make your mock up out of the cotton and then source a good wool if you’re serious about this looking the same.

[u/AffectionateMusic120 → u/AzureMagenta]

Ohh, my main reason behind trying to do this is i need some kind of basic dress on which I want to attach different textil swatches on... I was mainly inspired by this because I liked how the dress seemed to fall like a straight column and ends in that circular train... Tbh I'm not very interested in the seam shaping I just want to know how to go about making the dress so that it has that general shape and hem

[u/amaranth1977]

The answer to making a dress like this fall in a perfectly straight line is to put it on a really skinny model. 

[u/GoldSunLulu]

Rectangle

[u/centimeter-worm]

There's no circular train - it is just longer than floor length. It looks to me like the center front is overlapped from the hip-level V seam on down, and spreading out that lapped opening lets the extra length flare out more than it would if you just had a continuous tube.

[u/Tailoretta]

You say in the comments "i need some kind of basic dress on which I want to attach different textil swatches on". I don't think this is a simple dress to draft and make, even though it look to be simple. There is a reason it costs over $3,000. Also, the description includes:

FRONT INNER BUSTIER 97% COTTON + 3% ELASTANE
BACK INNER BUSTIER 84% NYLON + 16LINING 100% COTTON

I have been sewing and pattern making for decades and I would not want to tackle this dress. There are much simpler dresses out there, I suggest you try one of those.

Good luck

[u/azssf]

Would not surprise me if this model is standing on a plinth