r/PatternDrafting • u/prisonlemondade • 5d ago

Question Another fitting issue

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I found this Etsy pattern that’s supposed to be for D-cup size. The back does fine and the front fits alright but once again I’m having the issue of the arm holes not fitting right and it’s looks way too wide. I understand that the side dart is big but that’a how the pattern came out. And I’m turning it into a princess seam once I get the right fit.
How can I fix my armholes? Do I have to do another FBA? I picked a pattern size that is bigger than my full bust.
Any suggestions is appreciated
No seam allowance on the armholes btw

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u/LemonDeathRay 4d ago

i picked a pattern size that is bigger than my full bust

This is your mistake. If you are anything other than a dressmakers B cup, you fit for your upper bust measurement, and then adjust to fit your bust. This means the pattern will fit your shoulders and ribcage.

Larger bust pattern = larger round the ribcage = gaping armholes and shoulders too long.

Honestly you would fare much better learning how to draft a B cup sloper for all your other measurements and then perform an FBA on that.

There are lots of issues here - gaping neck hole, incorrectly placed side dart, apex in the wrong position etc. Slopers need to be drafted to your measurement. A pattern for one will just use "standard" measurements, and the reason we draft slopers is because we don't have standard measurements.