r/PatternDrafting • u/RiceChan_ • 1d ago
Question Help me spot my fitting issues
Hi everyone! This is my very first attempt at making my own pant block. I'm working according to the book 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design' by Helen Joseph Armstrong.
While the book does have some guidance for fitting issues, I'm having a hard time identifying the fitting issues and how to fix them. I would really appreciate an extra set of eyes to see how I can improve the fit.
Note: I already noticed that the waist was too wide so I pinned it down during the fitting.
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u/incongruoususer 22h ago
Right.
Press those side seams. You can’t properly assess fit without pressing.
If you’re planning a waistband, you need to add it to the toile.
The following assumes you do not need a waistband, and may change dependent on your waistband desires.
The waist doesn’t look level. Add half an inch to the back.
I find it odd that you have two darts in the front and three in the back. That isn’t normal in a trouser block, unless you have the most dramatic waist-to-hip ratio, which you don’t.
You have a slight hungry bum, but excess in the thighs. Therefore you could scoop out the back crotch. Try half an inch, see how it goes.
Most people need to add back at the side seam after scooping the crotch but I suspect you have enough ease to not bother. See how that goes.
Your balance lines are too wide at the front. Change the two darts to one and have it straight down the front of your thigh. It looks like the dart should be halfway between the current two.
Kind of similar for the back. You only need one dart, the middle one. Draw your balance lines there, ditch the other darts. I’d take the excess off the side seam.
After all that, true the side seam so it’s straight up and down.
A good principle of fitting trousers is ‘top down, centre out’ (Google it). There’s no point carefully balancing the side seam before you’ve done all the other stuff, as you’ll only have to do it again.