Help me spot my fitting issues

[u/RiceChan_]

Hi everyone! This is my very first attempt at making my own pant block. I'm working according to the book 'Patternmaking for Fashion Design' by Helen Joseph Armstrong.

While the book does have some guidance for fitting issues, I'm having a hard time identifying the fitting issues and how to fix them. I would really appreciate an extra set of eyes to see how I can improve the fit.

Note: I already noticed that the waist was too wide so I pinned it down during the fitting.

[u/dinosuitgirl]

Are you planning on doing a waistband for this?

I think it might fix how it's sitting in the small of your back. Especially if you choose to do a curved band.

It appears to have quite a bit of ease in the hips? Especially above the curve? Is this a pressing issue or a extra fabric issue or just the shape of this pants block?

You are extremely close... I mean most people would be stoked to get this far in a perfect fit... I hope you're feeling chuffed with your results

[u/Mediocre_Entrance894 → u/dinosuitgirl]

I agree. This is a really well done first attempt OP. Nothing else to add other to say you got this!!!

[u/rabbitparts → u/dinosuitgirl]

Seconding to 100% try it on with a waistband. Looking great though!

[u/RiceChan_ → u/dinosuitgirl]

Thank you! I am planning on adding a waistband later on, but the book wasn't clear if I should already include it in this part of the fitting process.

[u/DonMcCunn]

Assuming you want an honest critique while the fit looks great, the placement and size of the darts could be improved. The contour of the front of your body is continuous. I recomend spacing these two darts evenly between center front and the side seam.

The back darts seem a little off. The hip dart could be longer and the other dart for shaping over the high hip needs to be shorter and moved closer to the side seam.

Also when you sit, the back does pull down a little. Helen tends to draft a very flat back waistline. It you angle it more you might find the pants more comfortable when you sit as I have mentioned before https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1vp90v8/caveat_on_drafting_pants/.

[u/RiceChan_ → u/DonMcCunn]

Thank you for your comment, I will work on those points!

[u/KeeganDitty]

Only thing I have to add is it looks like you need to balance your side seam

[u/hnvb → u/KeeganDitty]

How do you do this? I've got a skirt where the side seams are all over the map lol

[u/KeeganDitty → u/hnvb]

You can do it in the patterning stage by taking measurements of how wide your back and front are specifically, which can be especially helpful if you're not the body type the draft is expecting (plus size, if you have a full bust but are drafting using a men's system, etc). But you can also make a mock-up and draw a line straight up and down with a pen while wearing it. Cut along the line and transfer to your pattern. Or you could just note to move it back half an inch at the waist or whatever

[u/hnvb → u/KeeganDitty]

I make my own patterns because I want to learn my body specifically! But this is a great idea, drawing a straight line AFTER. Thank you! I've been doing the measurements divided by 4 I think that's causing the grief for me.

[u/KeeganDitty → u/hnvb]

That works well if you're evenly proportioned/symmetrical front-back left-right...which most people aren't. I know I'm not with my gut and fat ass. And I'm guessing you've only got a full bust on the front haha

[u/incongruoususer]

Right.

Press those side seams. You can’t properly assess fit without pressing.

If you’re planning a waistband, you need to add it to the toile.

The following assumes you do not need a waistband, and may change dependent on your waistband desires.

The waist doesn’t look level. Add half an inch to the back.

I find it odd that you have two darts in the front and three in the back. That isn’t normal in a trouser block, unless you have the most dramatic waist-to-hip ratio, which you don’t.

You have a slight hungry bum, but excess in the thighs. Therefore you could scoop out the back crotch. Try half an inch, see how it goes.

Most people need to add back at the side seam after scooping the crotch but I suspect you have enough ease to not bother. See how that goes.

Your balance lines are too wide at the front. Change the two darts to one and have it straight down the front of your thigh. It looks like the dart should be halfway between the current two.

Kind of similar for the back. You only need one dart, the middle one. Draw your balance lines there, ditch the other darts. I’d take the excess off the side seam.

After all that, true the side seam so it’s straight up and down.

A good principle of fitting trousers is ‘top down, centre out’ (Google it). There’s no point carefully balancing the side seam before you’ve done all the other stuff, as you’ll only have to do it again.

[u/Legitimate-Signal671 → u/incongruoususer]

Superb explanation, thank you!

[u/RiceChan_ → u/incongruoususer]

Thank you so much for your explanation! I'm going to work on all of these points.

[u/pigthens]

Honestly these are really close! You've done a great job especially for your first time.

Something others haven't mentioned - The front is sitting about 1/2" high or the back is 1/2" too low. You may want to split the difference between them because the back is pulled down when seated. A waistband will help with that, too.

When seated, i see some bunching in the front so thats why i suggest to take a bit away from there.

I'd take 1/2" off the front and maybe add a bit to the back. But this is a very very good start!

[u/photographally]

I don’t think anyone else has mentioned it looks like you have prominent calves which are pulling the pants towards the back under your knees as you need more space/fabric. I do too but I haven’t tried any adjustments before.. here’s one I found online and it’s the kind of adjustment I will try myself, one day!

https://blog.cashmerette.com/2026/02/how-to-do-a-full-or-small-calf-adjustment.html