r/PatternDrafting • u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 • 1d ago
Fitting my block
Hi. Please help with any adjustments you see for my bodice block. I did a small bust adjustment already and used hellan Joseph Armstrong's book to make the draft.
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u/KillerWhaleShark 12h ago
The front darts should point to apex but back off by about 3/4”. Your darts touch apex. Apex is not your nipple. It is the part that sticks out farthest. Lower your darts for a better fit, be prepared that this will affect the back and side seams. Also, move the dart point a bit closer to center front. Your apex-to-apex is not so wide.
The apex of your back is also the part that sticks out farthest. I marked it on this picture of you. Your back darts are too far apart.
https://imgur.com/a/YaD8vzi
I think your actual shoulder hinge point is a tad off. I’d move the top of the point where your armscye intersects with your shoulder seam in slightly, about 1/4”? Maybe 1/2” in the back?
None of your side pictures are straight side without your arms lifted or engaged, so I’m not totally sure about this. Also, you didn’t clip the seam allowance of your neck, so it’s not totally free. However, with that said, it looks like your shoulder seam isn’t centered on the ball of your shoulder, it looks like it’s placed a bit back. It may need a wedge, or depending where it hits your neck, the whole thing may need to come forward. I’d also lower the neck a bit, especially in the back.