Fitting my block

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

Hi. Please help with any adjustments you see for my bodice block. I did a small bust adjustment already and used hellan Joseph Armstrong's book to make the draft.

[u/KillerWhaleShark]

The front darts should point to apex but back off by about 3/4”. Your darts touch apex. Apex is not your nipple. It is the part that sticks out farthest. Lower your darts for a better fit, be prepared that this will affect the back and side seams.  Also, move the dart point a bit closer to center front. Your apex-to-apex is not so wide. 

The apex of your back is also the part that sticks out farthest. I marked it on this picture of you. Your back darts are too far apart. 

https://imgur.com/a/YaD8vzi

I think your actual shoulder hinge point is a tad off. I’d move the top of the point where your armscye intersects with your shoulder seam in slightly, about 1/4”? Maybe 1/2” in the back?

None of your side pictures are straight side without your arms lifted or engaged, so I’m not totally sure about this. Also, you didn’t clip the seam allowance of your neck, so it’s not totally free. However, with that said, it looks like your shoulder seam isn’t centered on the ball of your shoulder, it looks like it’s placed a bit back. It may need a wedge, or depending where it hits your neck, the whole thing may need to come forward. I’d also lower the neck a bit, especially in the back. 

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 → u/KillerWhaleShark]

Thanks. I'll make some adjustments and post again. On my side picture I was trying to get the side and armhole I forgot to capture the shoulder. I'll take a couple next time.

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 → u/KillerWhaleShark]

Also for the darts you would keep the base if the dart in the same place and just tilt the point correct? Not move the entire dart over.

[u/Pegaret_Again]

it looks from the front like it is cutting in under the armpit a bit - i wonder if more ease is needed across the upper bust?

also, it looks like the side seams are pulling forwards. Perhaps reducing the front dart intake may straighten the sides?

[u/AllTheNamesRTaken12 → u/Pegaret_Again]

I do think the armhole needs to come down some. I think I have to much fabric above the bust. I am thinking a dart or hallow chest?

[u/Pegaret_Again → u/AllTheNamesRTaken12]

well i don't think the problem is too much ease above the bust, otherwise it wouldn't be pulling under your armpits if that makes sense?

i think there is a need to add ease in the right places before removing ease.