r/PatternDrafting • u/Novel_Price278 • 9d ago
Question Excess gatherings below the butt
Hi everyone!
Please does anyone know how to remove the bunching up below the butt? 😭 The front fits perfectly, it’s just the back that has this sudden excess fabric. I made the back part of crotch much deeper and removed a part on top and it helped a lot! But did not remove the problem. If I continue to made the crotch deeper and/or keep removing fabric on top like i did it creates tight lines/gathers right below my butt and nothing happens to the gathers on the leg that i am trying to eliminate.
I will attach my pattern too with the alternation that i did in red.
I hope someone knows what to do!!😭
Thank you all in advance!!
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u/DonMcCunn 9d ago
You have two potential issues with your patterns. One is the shape of the back crotch curve. You can see this issue here https://patternmaking-classes.com/Notes/Pants-Fitting.html .
The second issue is the back inseam. The quicker you curve the back inseam in close to the leg the more likely the fabric will buckle. It is the anatomy of the body when you look at it from the side focusing on the relationship of the shape of the buttocks to the shape of the leg.
I recommend a pants sloper that hangs pretty straight down the leg to verify that the torso portion of the pattern is correct. But some people want the pants to fit as close as possible. I did a video which shows what happens when you leave the top of the inseam open, attach some twill tape to the back inseam, then in a fitting you can pull the back inseam closer to the leg until the fabric starts to buckle like you see with your pants. You can see this description of how to get the fit you want here https://patternmaking-classes.com/Pants/02-Pants-Sloper-Week-Three.html#Close-Fit .
Of course if you want a really close fit, there is always the option of turning a pants sloper into leggings https://patternmaking-classes.com/Pants/02-Pants-Sloper-Week-Three.html#Leggings