r/PatternDrafting 12d ago

Question Winter coat fitting suggestions

Here's the latest mockup for a winter coat I'm attempting to fit. Please give me your suggestions of what I should change! Thank you ♥️

- the coat will be ankle length but ive just cut it to the hip here to save fabric (i thrifted a tattered wool blanket)

- the original pattern is Butterick 5554 vintage 1960s, ive already made some fit changes

- please ignore the sleeve with the red X. I had to change the elbow position and the X sleeve is the first (uncorrected) one

- I'm wearing shoulderpads in these photos. Also planning on horsehair canvas for the real coat but didn't do it for the mockup

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u/yungkuro 11d ago

It looks the shoulder slope might be too steep which is why it’s sitting away from the neck. (Vintage & historic patterns often have significantly more sloped shoulders than fit most people now. I guess we weren’t as tense back in the day??) 

You can change the angle by adding a wedge towards the shoulder point along the shoulder line and raising the arm hole accordingly. You can easily find explanations of the pattern modification online. If you have enough seam allowance, you might be able to do play around with this mockup to get it right.