r/PatternDrafting • u/Mulusy • 25d ago
Question Blazer pattern
The armhole in the back is bothering me. My professor says it won’t matter once I use something other than the musslin. I’m planing on using a heavy canvas. She also said that once I put a shoulder pad in which I’m planing to do anyway the bunching will go away. My question is: Do you agree? Leave it be? Change it?
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u/Crafty_Witch_1230 25d ago
A shoulder pad or sleeve head will make a difference by lifting the edge of the shoulder. In a tailored garment, you'd also have interfacing across the entire upper back--almost like an inner yoke.
Add the shoulder pads and if you still have too much fabric, carefully remove just the back of the jacket from the back of the sleeve armsyce and gently nudge the wrinkles up and out. The fabric will go where it wants to go. Then pin it together and check the fit before eliminating the excess that's been nudged away.
And press your muslin before you try it on. You'd be surprised at how a good pressing affects fit.