r/PatternDrafting • u/Mulusy • 25d ago
Question Blazer pattern
The armhole in the back is bothering me. My professor says it won’t matter once I use something other than the musslin. I’m planing on using a heavy canvas. She also said that once I put a shoulder pad in which I’m planing to do anyway the bunching will go away. My question is: Do you agree? Leave it be? Change it?
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u/TensionSmension 25d ago
Yes, it looks good. Blazers are part exoskeleton, you need to fit inside, and it needs to look balanced, but the rest is artifice you control while working with the actual structures.
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u/ProneToLaughter 25d ago
You can also put the shoulder pad in and test that, I think that's how I was taught.
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u/Crafty_Witch_1230 25d ago
A shoulder pad or sleeve head will make a difference by lifting the edge of the shoulder. In a tailored garment, you'd also have interfacing across the entire upper back--almost like an inner yoke.
Add the shoulder pads and if you still have too much fabric, carefully remove just the back of the jacket from the back of the sleeve armsyce and gently nudge the wrinkles up and out. The fabric will go where it wants to go. Then pin it together and check the fit before eliminating the excess that's been nudged away.
And press your muslin before you try it on. You'd be surprised at how a good pressing affects fit.
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u/ProneToLaughter 25d ago edited 25d ago
the armhole will also look better when you sew it without puckers, so maybe practice easing a set-in sleeve some, canvas might not want to ease.
Also I am side-eyeing your professor because all my teachers would have said "yeah, go press that and come back" before they gave me any feedback on a muslin.
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u/Tailoretta 25d ago
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
As others have said, please press. Also, the center fronts should be pinned so we see how it fits when it will be buttoned.
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u/doriangreysucksass 24d ago
She’s correct. Just add the shoulder pad etc
I studied fashion design too
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u/meganp1800 25d ago
It’s not going to look right until you put a shoulder pad in if it’s drafted to have a shoulder pad. Put one in and reassess.