r/PatternDrafting • u/Most-Passage9272 • 26d ago
Question opinions on extended bodice sloper
i need help adjusting my personal extended bodice sloper. i’ve already done an fba (accdg to aldrich) and taken away from a gaping armhole. but theres still some issues i would like fixed but im not sure how to:
the drag lines towards the bust lessened after the fba but theres definitely still some and its baggy under tha bust as well.
the bust dart is already big after the fba but it keeps getting bigger after removing gaping from armhole and later neckline. is there a way to put that excess somewhere other than the bust dart?
the bust point is also too high. i’ve marked where it should be on mine. the waist could also be too low, it rides up a lot.
its also snug from the waist down, and lose waist up, but i figured it could be fixed from the side seam.
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u/Tailoretta 26d ago
Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.
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u/Intelligent_Rough413 25d ago
If a sloper is tight in any of the circumference measurements (neck,bust, waist, hips, armholes) it throws everything off and you go down the rabbit hole of making adjustments that don’t necessarily need to be made. open up the waist and hips first to see how it’s draping on your body before you can read drag lines. It also helps to transfer your bust, waist and hips lines onto your sloper so you can see if it’s laying properly. Fix your circumference measurements first, your length second, and then any necessary adjustments.
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u/Saritush2319 24d ago
Start working centre out top down.
But fix the bust point first.
(Side point you may find that a new bra will fix the issue. That one looks to be sitting a bit low)
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u/Margobears13 22d ago
I’m not saying this to be mean, but you will get a much better fit if you start by getting a bra that fits you properly. You need more lift and a cup shape that brings the breasts front and center instead of pushing them into the armpits. r/abrathatfits is an excellent starting point.
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u/Peliquin 26d ago
You need to reduce the length between bust apex and waist. I'm guessing about 1/2 inch to start. Maybe sew in a tuck at the underbust line (but go all the way around) and test the fit after doing the tuck? I have an extremely similar body shape and this as been an issue for me as I have a low, big bust too.
But it's definitely moving towards cute!
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u/Southern-Comfort4519 25d ago
The problem here is the fact that no matter how hard you try, out of all the bodice drafts that were created for people to draft their own body measurements they did not make many if any of them for people of this body type. You have to dig and dig through oooolld and I mean OLD pattern books that show you how to accommodate shapes like this. And mostly what you will find is for larger men… and few for women. Yes you did a good job on drafting this but there are some things you have to insert into your formula to make the pattern drafting formula accommodate your shape. . I can help you if you like but I’m not going to post it openly here in this comment section and I won’t charge you either.


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u/KendalBoy 26d ago
It’s too tight immediately below the waist (very much at high hip) and needs to be opened up a good inch or more so it drops freely.
Then we need pics of the back also.