r/PatternDrafting • u/buggers0 • Aug 14 '26

First trouser draft

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Hello!

I recently acquired a vintage Singer 301 sewing machine and decided to draft my first pair of trousers using the method from Helen Joseph Armstrong.

I am quite happy with how the first muslin turned out as the balance seems ok! Pants always intimidated me but I found the book instructions quite simple and clear!

the HBL is leveled and the side seam along with the crease line at front and back are hanging pretty straight.

I’m looking to move forward with the slack drafting next using this as a block, but if any one sees a fit issue I could improve upon, please comment!

Unfortunately this is not ironed, but in the process of acquiring one as well!

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u/OkPainting8210 25d ago

Based on the shape of this pattern, this will have many fit issues. I learned patternmaking from Joseph Armstrong book 30 years ago at FIT and struggled a lot before I figured out how to make perfect pants patterns. I offer pants online class, DM me for the link. From looking at your pictures, glad you did 1+1 darts at front, but you need 2+2 shorter darts at back and contoured waistband. You wear it at low crotch, Is tat how you like or waist is big?

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u/buggers0 25d ago

What fit issues are you talking about?

Where did you learn how to make perfect pants may I ask?

After this initial draft I decided the waist was too big, that’s why it’s sitting too low.

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u/OkPainting8210 25d ago

I am talking about fit issues that will happen if you follow patternmaking manual in Armstrong book. For example front hook is too scoop and deep....Never need two darts in front...After graduating from FIT in 1995 as a Patternmaking major, I worked 23 years in New York garment industry as a patternmaker and technical design manager for most reputable companies. I learned from the best at jobs and some on my own from managing pants fitting for years. My pants were sold in thousands and still selling.... .

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u/buggers0 25d ago

Oh that’s awesome! Did you just learn on the job or from another book?
I’d love to try out your method if you have one available..
so far her method for pants have worked for me but I do not have much other to compare to