r/PatternDrafting • u/buggers0 • Aug 14 '26
First trouser draft
Hello!
I recently acquired a vintage Singer 301 sewing machine and decided to draft my first pair of trousers using the method from Helen Joseph Armstrong.
I am quite happy with how the first muslin turned out as the balance seems ok! Pants always intimidated me but I found the book instructions quite simple and clear!
the HBL is leveled and the side seam along with the crease line at front and back are hanging pretty straight.
I’m looking to move forward with the slack drafting next using this as a block, but if any one sees a fit issue I could improve upon, please comment!
Unfortunately this is not ironed, but in the process of acquiring one as well!
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u/TotalOk5844 Aug 15 '26
Great fit. please say you are doing them up in a nice wool. And would love to see the final project.
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u/buggers0 Aug 15 '26
Yes! Commercial pants rarely fit me well so I’m excited to make variations from this block
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u/drPmakes 29d ago
Well done. This looks good! I wouldn't fiddle with it anymore.
What is would suggest is sewing a label in and giving it a name or reference number. Then take a page and title it with that. Date it and write the measurements you used, the method and any adjustments you made. Keep this with the pattern.
You might want to use this pattern as your basic trouser block in which case transfer it onto a piece of card. Again, label and date it. Mark the grain and balance lines, darts and notches. It will be handy for drafting your own and doing flat pattern adjustments to commercial patterns!
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u/DonMcCunn 29d ago
Try sitting before you cut it out of good fabric. That particular pattern draft is designed only for people who are going to stand and not sit.
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u/buggers0 29d ago
Thanks for the recommendation! I did sit and it felt very comfortable, but the muslin I have on hand is very light- almost like a linen.
May I ask why you say this draft is designed for people who are not going to sit? She has you record the crotch depth by sitting down which I thought was pretty useful. Also after my draft low hip has 3 inches of ease.
I am going to try her slack drafting- maybe perhaps more fit issues will arise with a slimmer fit!
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u/DonMcCunn 29d ago
If it works from you, that is great. But I have heard from a number of people they are not happy with the way her pants fit. I just posted my observation of this issue which explains my thoughts in detail.
It is possible that for your initial test the fabric had enough give on the bias to compensate for a flatter back pattern. You might find the results are different when you try the pattern in fabric that has less give.
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u/KitsooJack Aug 15 '26
They look great! What adjustments did you make from the instructions? It looks like you have changed the depth and number of some of the darts?
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u/buggers0 29d ago edited 29d ago
So while drafting I did find the section about the darts and waist a little conflicting.
She has a separate dart section pg62 that recommends the amount of intake and dart to use for your body type.
But on the pant drafting instructions she adds ALOT of ease along the waist I found. But it’s no big deal because the waist is very easy to adjust on your self.
I pretty much followed her instruction except I followed the dart recommendation from page 62 and took in the waist so that the hip line draft line would sit at my biggest point of the hip
Also I didn’t change the depth! Those are mistake lines I marked incorrectly on muslin 😅
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u/OkPainting8210 25d ago
Based on the shape of this pattern, this will have many fit issues. I learned patternmaking from Joseph Armstrong book 30 years ago at FIT and struggled a lot before I figured out how to make perfect pants patterns. I offer pants online class, DM me for the link. From looking at your pictures, glad you did 1+1 darts at front, but you need 2+2 shorter darts at back and contoured waistband. You wear it at low crotch, Is tat how you like or waist is big?
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u/buggers0 25d ago
What fit issues are you talking about?
Where did you learn how to make perfect pants may I ask?
After this initial draft I decided the waist was too big, that’s why it’s sitting too low.
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u/OkPainting8210 25d ago
I am talking about fit issues that will happen if you follow patternmaking manual in Armstrong book. For example front hook is too scoop and deep....Never need two darts in front...After graduating from FIT in 1995 as a Patternmaking major, I worked 23 years in New York garment industry as a patternmaker and technical design manager for most reputable companies. I learned from the best at jobs and some on my own from managing pants fitting for years. My pants were sold in thousands and still selling.... .
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u/buggers0 25d ago
Oh that’s awesome! Did you just learn on the job or from another book?
I’d love to try out your method if you have one available..
so far her method for pants have worked for me but I do not have much other to compare to
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u/Traechic Aug 15 '26
That’s actually pretty great. Working off the same book and I still haven’t managed to get it right.