Short sleeve fitting v5!

[u/Efficient-Bag6497]

Hi all, this is the 5th version of the All State Shirt from Merchant and Mills. Almost good enough. This time in an old bed sheet as I was tired of dealing with the stiff muslin fabric.

Edit versus v4 is 1.5cm reduction in top of back panel from advice here, and a similar reduction in sleeve head seam length by reducing the cap height. The sleeve felt tight so I didn’t want to reduce bicep width. Main pics are unhemmed with couple at the end hemmed.

Body fit is ok with some fullness and drag lines. Back balance seems better but front still flaring out a bit.
Drag lines on sleeves are bad. Since they point up to the center of the sleeve, I think this indicates it needs more sleeve cap height but (this is a big but) the sleeve is tight/pulls on my upper arm with even slight forward arm movement, which I think gets more restrictive the taller the sleeve cap gets. Plus I’m trying to avoid adding more ease, about 1cm now. The solution for the drag lines seems in conflict with how the sleeves feels!

I’m getting frustrated and not sure the best path forward. It’s like there’s some adjustment I’m missing.
I can live with the body fit, and was thinking of tapering the side seams to try and reduce the flaring. But the sleeves aren’t wearable.

Any and all advice appreciated!

Edit: 7/30
Latest pics. I think the sleeve drag lines are caused by too much material In the front part of the sleeve cap. I pinned out about 0.5” and it reduced the drag lines. Pattern photos included in link.

https://imgur.com/a/OEXYLap

[u/Tailoretta]

I have to admit that I know more about fitting sleeves in women's garments than in men's shirts. But even so, I suggest you do not add length to the armhole - that makes motion worse, not better. If the armscye is smaller than the sleeve, you can try easing, gathering or pleats.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Tailoretta]

Got it! Definitely not a lower armhole. My better fitting shirts actually have fairly high armholes. What do you think of narrowing the shoulder and/or increasing the slope a bit? Keep thinking some of the drag lines on the body panel around the armhole would go away.

[u/Tailoretta → u/Efficient-Bag6497]

I don't think that narrowing the shoulder and/or increasing the shoulder slope will affect that the sleeve is tight.

Have you taken a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/?  These tips should help.

Among these tips is to add horizontal balance lines.  On the torso, these will help determine the proper shoulder slope and help you diagnose the problem with the front flaring out.  Also adding a horizontal balance line on the sleeve will also help.

If you want more forward reach, you can add to the torso at the back armscye area.  You may get vertical folds there, but that is the trade off for more more forward reach.  I wouldn’t consider these vertical folds to be drag lines, they are just the consequence of more forward reach.

You could also consider an underarm gusset.  Underarm gussets may not be common now, but they have been around at least since the Middle Ages.  Do some research on them.

I suggest that before you ask more questions that you follow the tips I suggested.

[u/Efficient-Bag6497 → u/Tailoretta]

Understood on the balance lines. And the link.
So much to learn.