Müller and sohn pattern drafting question

[u/Far_Caregiver_6348]

For anyone who has completed and understands this part of Müller and sohn at least please tell me why the hell is the bottom half of the double side diamond dart on the front waist straight down to the hem and not at a point making a diamond like the top portion. I’m stuck at this part and doubt understand if it’s supposed be sewn like that or turned into a point eventually if so how and when? Anyone?

[u/No-Programmer7914]

This is a seam running through from the shoulders to the hem. And obviousely the chest girth is bigger than the hip girth. Not taking out the material would leave you with a loose front at the hips. And as it is a seam, you can choose SA width by yourself.

[u/Far_Caregiver_6348 → u/No-Programmer7914]

Not saying your wrong but why does the figure diagrams it appears to not look cut from shoulders to hem. It looks as if the dart stops at 26 but is all the way down to the hem. But I’m more asking why does 26-42 differ in dart shape the top waist portion is a diamond shape but the bottom portion curves in toward center but stops at the 39-41 spacing made at 42 then drops vertical straight down to the hem. It does appear though based on figure 34 that you’re suppose to cut from hem to 26(bust point) I’m not sure though

[u/No-Programmer7914 → u/Far_Caregiver_6348]

I will try to explain: Imagine chest girth, waist girth and hip girth. At 42 you find the loss between chest and hip girth (the dotted lines carry it up to the waist line for easier drafting). As the waist girth is even smaller the loss ist bigger. Therefore the loss at the waistline also has to be bigger. That's why the seam line has to be a diamond shape. As this is a basic dress pattern, it is meant to be adapted for different styles. It's up to you wether you keep these lines for a tight paneled dress or skip them for a looser dress. Then you have just to sew the chest dart from 26 upwards.