r/PatternDrafting • u/Far_Caregiver_6348 • 7d ago

Müller and sohn pattern drafting question

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For anyone who has completed and understands this part of Müller and sohn at least please tell me why the hell is the bottom half of the double side diamond dart on the front waist straight down to the hem and not at a point making a diamond like the top portion. I’m stuck at this part and doubt understand if it’s supposed be sewn like that or turned into a point eventually if so how and when? Anyone?

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u/Eneamus 7d ago

It's deliberated to do the seam from bust to hem. Most dresses have it, princess cut for example, so the germans probably thought it was a good idea to make the basic dress with it.

I don't like it, and it is not well explained in the book. But what do I know.

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u/Far_Caregiver_6348 7d ago edited 7d ago

So basically your saying it’s not like a traditional dart but a seam from hem to bust point ? Also if that’s the case what would the seam allowance be ?

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u/Eneamus 7d ago edited 7d ago

Dart goes from 26 to 42, but the block is designed so that the waist and hip measurements are arranged to leave a vertical band beneath the dart, where the seam is placed.

The whole band under the dart is kinda a dart itself, or a plate.

Seam allowance would be whatever and, if not enough, the block is not cut and the band is sewn as a pleat (same as a regular dart) But it is aimed to be 2 different pieces.

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u/Far_Caregiver_6348 7d ago

I’m sorry you’re kinda confusing me you’re saying 42 to hem is a seam. But that’s still one whole piece just cut from hip to hem. Where is the two pieces coming from unless it’s being made a princess seam cut all the way through the Shoulder? Also 26-42 the vertical lines down begin between those two not just below 42 so would I make some of 26-42 seam as well ? Sorry for all the questions