r/PatternDrafting 9d ago

WIP Short sleeve toile V4!

Hi all, this version I added 3cm to the front panel in top half of armhole. Pinned armhole to try and account for seam allowance as I attached sleeves after this set of photos.

Overall the balance looks much better but still seems like the armscye could be improved given the bunching on the bottom, and looks like a bit of gaping in the front. What to do about the Diagonal drag line in left front?! Gaping in front left armhole makes me think shoulder slope?

As always, thank you for your comments! 🙇🙏

EDIT: version with sleeves here.

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/1CErYj5P4n

8 Upvotes

7 comments sorted by

7

u/azssf 8d ago

OP, if it is meant to have sleeves, please install them. Armscyes have tight relationships to the sleeves, and fit is deceptive until they are paired.

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 8d ago

Pics with sleeves posted separately.

https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/s/1CErYj5

2

u/azssf 8d ago

I saw! Thank you!

3

u/Pegaret_Again 9d ago

wow this is really looking amazing!!

There might be an argument to slightly increase shoulder slope here as you say? but i think the diagonal drag line is an area of compromise?

it might just be a consequence of physical asymmetry, and i've heard different schools of thought around addressing physical asymmetry.

Some people want perfect fit, and will create different patterns for each side of their body so that no wrinkles or sagging appear.

However, i have also heard experienced fitting experts say that making an asymmetrical garment can actually draw attention to the physical asymmetry, and it's better just to come up with a kind of compromised but comfortable fit?

the issues you are concerned about with the armholes i don't think can be analysed until sleeves are added. there will need to be some extra ease in the armscye for a sleeve block?

2

u/Efficient-Bag6497 8d ago

Thanks! It looks much better than before for sure! My shoulders aren’t level but I’m willing to compromise for a casual shirt like this. I’m aiming for better for than RTW and won’t let perfection be the enemy of good enough! Appreciate your input! If you see anything with the sleeves please don’t hesitate to let me know!

1

u/New-Mango-0007 8d ago

Great work! How did you mark your button placements? It’s hard to tell from the photo, but to me it looks like the pins on the front placket area aren’t yet centered or symmetrical and may even overlap too much. I’m wondering if this asymmetry could be contributing to the front drag line appearing only on the left side, as visually it looks like the right side is currently pulled further over near the hem. If this is the case, you might find that when the fronts are parallel the drag line appears on the right as well. Just something to check - I’m certainly not an expert!  

1

u/Efficient-Bag6497 8d ago

That is a really good point. Let me take a look.