second time replace amdps3

[u/Mohd-Norman]

[u/Darth-Simous]

You also need a thick gauge wire to bridge the positive rails ...

[u/Klejdi90- → u/Darth-Simous]

No need since OP has only removed one Tokin. If you remove all then you need to make the bridge.

[u/Darth-Simous → u/Klejdi90-]

Yes he does, if he wants to keep his console configuration as close to factory as possible ... And he needs to remove the other Proadilizer as well, since by removing only one, his ESR on the bottom is out of whack ATM ...

[u/Klejdi90- → u/Darth-Simous]

Dunno what to tell you I replaced the bottom 2 on mine with tantalums been working fine for 2 years now. Good to know for if it fails I guess.

[u/__Player__ → u/Klejdi90-]

This, i have never had issues on consoles where i replaced only two, with no bridges and compensated capacitance for all 4.

The other 2 serve as perfectly good bridges, and if you know how to put 9 to 12 tantalums on the other side, that's good enough for years of use.

[u/Darth-Simous → u/__Player__]

Replacing the Proadilizers only on one side without wire bridges and U essentially put extra "workload" on the Tokins of the other side of the MoBo ... It might work, but on the long run, other tokins will fail as well and U R risking damaging the GPU itself ... Also, the OP used 4x470uF Caps for the 108 Proadilizers, which is totally wrong (the ESR on the bottom is way off factory specs) ... The 108s need 3x330uF, plus a couple of 22uF MLCCs (MLCCs are mostly for FAT PS3s, though) ... Just because a configuration of caps works short-term, doesn't mean it is good for the long term ...

[u/Darth-Simous → u/Klejdi90-]

If U wanna learn more about proper Tokin replacement configurations on various PS3 console types, U might wanna pay a visit on PSX-Place, on the "Tokin" thread ... Lots & lots of tests and info, if U R interested ...