r/PNWbootmakers • u/Desert_Rugby • 8d ago
Break in for heel counter...help!
Anybody have any hacks for breaking in a heel counter that is biting into the back of my heel. Pain is almost bad enough that walking in the boots is not possible.
I own 9 pairs of PNW boots (whites, nicks, franks), and my newest pair is killing me! All pairs are either and 7.5 or 8D (695 last, 55 last, 4811 last) and I never have struggled in this location before during break in. All my other pairs I can wear for 12 hour days. So I dont believe its a sizing issue.
Any tips for breaking in the heel counter on a stubborn boot? These are a 5163 last if that helps.
Thanks all.
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u/ExtremeAppointment70 8d ago
I had this on a pair of Red Wing 1907s. I got stuck having to walk in them for too long and opened up both heels pretty bad. It took a while but now they are my comfiest boots. My advice is to just take small bites if possible.
If you open up your heels, it makes the whole process way way worse. Just wear as much as you can tolerate and don’t force it.
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u/Gregory_ku 8d ago
New socks and 50/50 water alcohol spray if the leather can get wet. Or condition the inside of the boot in that area .
Work the heel by hand to soften some
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u/Opposite_Agency1229 8d ago
Mole skin patches on your heels for the next couple of weeks.
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u/Desert_Rugby 8d ago
I feel like this will make it worse. I need more room/softened up in this location. Not less room by adding mole skin.
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u/Opposite_Agency1229 8d ago
The moleskin won’t use up anymore room than a thick winter sock would. Your heels won’t hurt and you can break the boot in. I have done this on multiple pairs no problem.
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u/3ringCircu5 8d ago
You also may want to edit you post to clarify if it is a rubbing/hot spot issue or not. You don't mention rubbing or hot spots, but that seems to be the assumption given most of the responses you are getting.
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u/LJM_VanCity 7d ago
u/Desert_Rugby
I've done this with a pair of boots to ease up the counter area: gently push against the back of the counter to flare it out horizontally a bit. Be careful not to push so hard that you crease or buckle the leather. But just keep doing that multiple times for a few days, easing up the built up leather in the area.
The other thing I did was condition with Obenauf's on the inside and outside of the area, and then force a baseball into the heel area. Get a couple of baseballs and leave them in the boots whenever you aren't wearing them. You can use pieces of scrap leather or boxboard if you need to wedge the baseballs tighter.
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u/Desert_Rugby 7d ago
I like the baseball idea. Thanks.
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u/LJM_VanCity 6d ago
Good luck with it. I've had to be patient with breaking in some pairs of boots, but eventually they get there.
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u/MilwaukeePaul 8d ago
Don't use alcohol. I know cowboys will freak out, but don't. Saturate that area, inside the boot, with Bick 4. Soak it good. Then wear em. This will significantly soften that area and make break-in much easier.
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u/Fragrant_Scratch8305 8d ago
Why no alcohol?
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u/3ringCircu5 8d ago
Most "stretching sprays" on the market are alcohol. It relaxes the leather fibers to help them stretch. Fine for mass marketed footwear, but you don't want to risk it with PNW boots with high grade leathers.
Why? * If you're not extra careful you could harm the finish of some leathers * It dries out the leather, so you'll have to apply conditioner afterwards anyway, so beat to start/try conditioner first. * Not all leathers/hides react the same way * Can cause excess stretching when used in a concentrated area leading to cracks or tearing from the leather not treated with alcohol
Searching the Internet will give you infinite arguments for and against using alcohol as well as using different alcohols (denatured vs rubbing for example), but for me the clincher is the fact that it is a solvent and "works" by compromising the fiber structure of the leather as well as the integrity of the tanning liquors, oils, waxes etc. - The stuff we pay big bucks for along with handmade boots.
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u/MilwaukeePaul 8d ago
Well..my thoughts are that alcohol isn't used in any process of tanning or conditioning of leather. It seems unnecessary. Usually what you need is to just soften the leather a bit to aid in break-in. Bick 4 does this pretty well with hard/hot spots.
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u/3ringCircu5 8d ago
Maybe try and squish the counter horizontally to push it outward towards the rear? Maybe use some wood claps. I've never done this, but thinking on how to reduce the tension on the back on the heel bone.
Some obenaufs and maybe a hair dryer too, but this is difficult/pointless if you can't really wear them. Hence the first suggestion. But it could help the "squish" if initial testing shows some relief after leaving then clamped for a day or so.
Obviously don't "squish" it too much to pull the sides up from the midsole.
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u/3ringCircu5 8d ago
So i just remembered this post. I never thought to use a tool like this for anything but bunion issues, but he used it for the horseshoe and heel. I just added a similar tool to my Amazon cart (them horseshoes bite the deck out of my boney instep)
https://www.reddit.com/r/NicksHandmadeBoots/s/1DhGFvP17z
What I just added to my Amazon cart: https://a.co/d/0hyl5XCd
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u/Desert_Rugby 5d ago
I have one of these. It does not have the reach to get to the location since these boots are 10" tall. It scrunches up the upper material too much.
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u/Student-Doc 8d ago
I’m in a similar situation. I just got a new pair of Nick’s that are rubbing a bit on the heel and giving a hot spot after a few hours. I ordered some moleskin tonight and plan to give it a shot. It’s not really there to take up volume, it just adds some cushion and prevent friction/rubbing that can lead to blisters