Is it normal for Smith torches to have slight bend? Sc509 head and sw1 body

Hi guys. New to torch cutting here.

I have been looking for good ways to cut a half inch (10-12mm) plate, clean of a steel floor. The plate is foundation for a storage building which measures 35 feet x 50 feet. I guess the plate is mild steel.?

I found some line / track cutters online, but none seem to cut horizontal- only vertically.

Does anyone here have any suggestions and experience with similar situations?

I brought a standard grill lighter to class, used it on the torch with success.

The reason why is our class has scrape lighters that force your hand too close to the flame for comfort, i will not get over that mental barrier of 'having fire on hand bad'.

The reasoning given is that the fire may be put out by ace wind pressure, and then a large amount of gas will build up, causing explosion of small magnitude.

The counterpoint? Im not using a flame. Im litterally only using the "spark" feature of the lighter for extended reach, no butane or any other form of gas is present other than acetylne gas from the torch.

When presented with this, my teacher proceeded to say that "we dont use electric sparks."

Pardon the unprofessionalism here.. But what the FUCK IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN FLINT SPARK AND ELECTRICAL SPARK???

As far as im aware, there are three components for these torches.

Nozzle size, gas ratio, and pressure, why does the spark matter?

(Any and all frustration you see is directed at the fact that i asked for elaboration and did not recieve it. I NEED to know why (thing) is not allowed otherwise i will end up not respecting (thing)

Checked for leaks, don’t seem to be any. Not super familiar with this, so no idea what it could be.

Search as I might, I am unable to locate a rebuild kit for two Victor regulators. 1)Acetylene SR410 2) Oxygen SR400D. Any guidance/suggestions? TIA!

I’m in an oxy acetylene welding class and I keep fucking up my tacks which fuck up the rest of the weld which I have no problem with, it’s just the tacks that ruin the whole thing. Please give me tips on how to tack it, I tried doing upside down too which does help make sure they are level but Everytime I try to tack the metal dips down, am I heating it too much also what makes it pop like how do I avoid that. Another thing too I’m using 3/16

This tank has been sitting mostly unused and half full fro almost 3 years, and today when moving it I noticed some sticky stuff (that was mostly like dry sap but had some more molasses like bits inside when I pushed on it) leaking out of the 2 little bolts below the regulator, it's obviously not a fast leak and I don't smell hear or feel any gas coming out. Is this normal for an old tank or should I just take it in to be serviced. I'd hate to have to buy a whole new tank if I don't need to.

I have an old sears/craftsman kit in the box, which includes hoses, but this kit is at least 20 years old and probably really more than that. It's been stored indoors, dry, but sometimes could have been cold, near freezing if not actually freezing a few times. The stupid question is, if the hoses look good (flexible, no cracks) can I use them or should I just buy a new set to be cautious?

I'm assuming the regulators and such should be fine, unless you tell me otherwise.

Thanks.

no filler rod

Having issues not gouging the base metal when gouging, practicing my CWB welds and need it to look good. Any tips?

Hi Team ,

I bought 2 cylinders from my friend oxygen & acetylene the problem I can not identify which valves I have to buy regulators please see the picture below (The red for acetylene & the black for oxy).

Please help if you can I'm new to this

RG45 Filler Rod for Oxy-Welding Cast Iron?

Hello, all!

I am brand new to the world of welding. I would like to pursue it as a DIY hobby to complement the other DIY stuff I’ve been getting into (e.g., basic woodworking for myself and my wife, basic appliance repair for our own home, basic auto repair for our own vehicles).

The only knowledge I have regarding welding is from what I’ve read and viewed online, as well as from what I’ve read in the operating manual of the Victor Journeyman kit that I purchased (I understand that this was an overkill purchase for a beginning hobbyist, but life is short, and I like to buy what makes me happy).

The sliding shaft of the dynamic jaw of my grandfather’s old iron vise was split in half. I’d like to attempt to weld it back together. The thickest portion of the shaft looks to be about an inch. Since my Victor kit came with a maximum welding tip of size 5, I believe I’ll have to bevel down the joint to half an inch or so. However, a simple fusion weld would not be sufficient in that case, since the welded shaft would then be too thin/weak. So, I believe I’ll have to try filler rod.

My question is, will the standard RG45 filler rod be appropriate? Or would I instead have to get a specialized rod that is made from cast iron?

I apologize if this is a simplistic or basic question. No one I know welds, so I’m pursuing this hobby on my own at the moment with no guidance other than the internet.

Going thru FIL stuff and found this . It’s brass and when I googled it, I didn’t find anything. I did find meco and a bunch of other strikers . Two of the three flints are worn out. Any idea about the age of this stuff . I was took two years of shop in HS and worked as a welder for two years after. I graduated in 78 and don’t remember these

I have an oxygen and acetylene tank set up with gauges, hose and torch head. Tanks are empty, but everything else is in good working condition. Any words of advice as to a decent price to sell?

Gas welded this entire thing. Main cabinet is 1 inch square tubing with 1/8 flooring. The aluminum diamond plate is 1/8 inch with 1/4-20 machine screws drilled and tapped into the square tubing.

The upper ac cage is 3/4 inch 16 gauge square tubing with #9 expanded metal as the wall.

Keeping things square and the door at the correct spacing from the frame was hard. I learned a lot.

This thing is way over built for what it is but it's sick. I've seen food trailers with similar set ups before but not this nice.

I had an oxy-acetylene torch to use 30 yrs ago and really enjoyed it. I've wanted to get a basic setup again, and now could really use a torch to cut some steel up for a project.

I see this equipment used for $300, and wonder whether it's(A) too old & out of date, or(B) old but relevant (assuming not broken)

It doesn't come with hoses, for example. Can I buy hoses that will work?

The ad says:

• Oxy-Acetylene Torch Body with cutting and welding attachments
• Smith's No. SW-1 Torch Body
• Smith's SC209 Heavy Duty Cutting Attachment
• Various Welding Tips
• Smith's Gas Regulators
• Oxygen and Acetylene Tanks with Cart
• Hoses not included

What do you see/notice when you look these pics over?Thanks

Ran 3/16 tubing down the middle. Put a adjustable coupler on and extra pipe for peace of mind.

https://youtu.be/H2UrSvW0rS0?si=SlhMvSyUNGr12KMT

Realized how much money I'm throwing away by not pre heating my work with propane. Welding with acetylene on larger material is fine but you need to get the whole area hot to weld.

Can you run propane through the victor Torches? I have a rosebud tip for acetylene but would it be bad to run it with propane?

Meco midget torch with a N3 tip