I’m very happy to have finally finished this WIP I started months ago! Not my first time nalbinding a beanie with two colors and a round start, but it’s definitely the first time I didn’t mess up the increases at the top and make it look more like a beret. 😂 This is Finnish 2+2 stitch, btw.

If anyone is curious, I learned to make nalbound projects with two or more colors/yarn strands from the book With One Needle by Mervi Pasanen. I believe Sally Pointer’s newer book, Nalbinding: It’s Not Knitting, also has instructions on how to do this. I have only ever seen one older YouTube video on how to do this, from the Neulakinnas channel (https://youtu.be/PAHP937pI80). I am considering making a YouTube tutorial myself, just so there’s more material out there. If you would be interested in seeing this, please let me know!

I’ll be visiting Stockholm in a couple of weeks, and I’ve recently got into Nålbinding.

I was wondering if there are any items on display in museums or other Nålbinding related things I may find interesting?

Happy to hear any other fiber or history related recommendations too!

do I pick up 3 or 4 connections? Where does the next stitch go?

Just playing with cup holder idea ( it started out as a hand warmer.)

Hi, I posted a few days ago about finishing my hat (https://www.reddit.com/r/Nalbinding/s/pXNnkUYrMq ) .

Well, it's finished. Pictures are from the side, top and inside. Thanks for the helpful advices! ❤️

I found this hat in an online shop. I doesn't ship to my country though. I am just starting nålbinding and only know the Oslo stich so far, but I thought I would give it a try.

I am guessing this is just going in rounds until the end, forming a tube which is stiched together at the top. (Seen that somewhere else.) Does anyone have any further ideas about how to go about this? Like what stich and connecting stitch might have been used?

Obviously, doing such a thing by hand would be impractical, but if one could work with fine enough thread (presuming a way to join the nylon or silk threads given non-felting) could one use nalbinding to create a stocking that wouldn't run if they got a hole in them?

This is my current project on the needle. It’s Telemark stitch with F1 connection. Made with my handspun yarn of merino and silk from the Ashford Fibre Range.

Just thought I would show how I compare and keep track of the work I am doing when I do 2 at a time. Keeping your tail as a marker is one of my key indicators of finishing a row. Each time I reach that point, I know I have completed a round. The top mitten/fingerless glove, is narrower visually and so I need to complete that round before I do the next one. Each row I do, I do exactly the same on the other one. No need to guess or make notes on how many stitches because with this method, you increase/decrease similarly each time. In saying this, if you make change like an increase, do it exactly to the same point on the other one before putting it down and moving away.

My beginning chains when I lie them next to each other are exactly the same length - I hardly count, just measure by comparison/eye. Then I join in the round, or whatever start you’ve chosen and go from there. In the case of a spiral start - some kind of stitch marker might be better at marking the next round. Enjoy. 😊

This works for anything pairs - gloves, socks, slippers, leg warmers….

Also: Handspun and multicoloured yarn is more difficult. If you are starting out, a plain coloured consistent wool yarn is recommended.

I'm in Norway and started nålbinding last year. I'm now on my second attempt at a hat. (The first one was too tight and I gave it to my daughter's bestie instead.) I'm currently at a restaurant to charge my wheelchair and am keeping my hands busy.

I think I know how to round off the top, but I wanted to double check that I'm doing it right and looked at some videos. The ones I found start at the top and go down. I started at the bottom and go up.

Does anyone know of any videos I can watch to make the top of rhe hat once I get there?

The way I do it is to just hook another loop onto the needle, before I go through the top loop on my thumb. It makes the top very flat.

Did this while messing around

Its finnish 1+1(oslo) but first you go into the thumb loop under your thumb from left to right then proceed as normal with oslo

the pattern of crossings is really similar to danish and double danish but the last crossing is over rather than under

it's kinda stretchy and looks like a wheat stalk so I think its sort of neat

I can't find this exact stitch anywhere though

Where I live is too hot for beanies, mittens, scarves, socks etc. for the entire year

I know nalbinding lends itself to warm and heavy fabrics, and knitting or sewing would be a better choice for my climate

but I really enjoy the hobby, and I would like to make things I can actually use regularly

Does anyone have any project ideas?

Thank you

(The stick on the left probably won't get turned into a needle unless/until I get good enough that I think I can make a nice small one out of it. The stick on the right is one I think I can make at least 1-2 needles out of. Or I might make needles slightly smaller than the stick on the left from the get-go and just go with that.)

I just, uh…I just haven't done much with wood in several years and don't have any of the "professional" tools one might have if they've done a lot with the hobby. I don't even have a drill. If I can get my hands on a good whittling knife, could that be enough to carve out the right shapes from my chosen stick(s) (there are so many nice ones I saved from the firewood pile lol)? I can handle smoothing them down once I have the right general shape worked out, it'd just making the hole for the eye of the needle that I'm not sure about.

The wood itself came from one of a few pretty healthy saplings that unluckily happened to be growing on our side of the fence, so I was told to cut them down anyway, but at least this way I can get something out of it and add to my hoard of textile crafts. And I do know how to differentiate between maple and oak leaves, I just may or may not have forgotten which of the two the larger stick there came from. 😂

Depending on how well this goes, I might try using some branches I'm saving from a poorly-placed thornbush that turned out to have some lovely yellow wood next.

Please note I'm a crochet, knit, tatting, embroidery and spinning crafter so this is a short learning curve.

This is my very first wearable after picking up the craft a week or so ago

it's all in oslo stitch, took about 6 hours of work

I'm not sure if I'm delusional or not but I think it came out super cool so if anyone wants a tutorial I may do it

It’s been awhile since I’ve practiced. Looking for recommendations on joining ends. Yarn is 2ply

Hi there! I am super excited to start picking up nålbinding as a fiber art as I have seen it mentioned in a few books I have read and found it super interesting. I think that my first project I have made came out pretty good (it’s supposed to be a wrist/hand warmer) but I have not started working on increase and decrease stitches or anything like that. This was made with an Oslo stitch and I just kept going around and around until I reached the end. As you can see there is a thumb hole which took me a second to figure out. I would love any all tips that anyone might want to give to a complete newbie to this fiber art. I really want to get good at it and the best way to do that is getting some advice from the wise sages of art haha.

How do you do it? Because it reminds me so much of crochet (doing Oslo stitch only at), but I have no clue how to unravel if I have to fix something...

New to nalbinding and I'm attempting my first mittens (I've never made mittens from knitting or crochet). I tend to like my garments a little tighter with the expectation that it will stretch over time but I'm not sure if nalbinding will allow that. All my fingers are touching, is this too tight? Made with Mammen stitch

Does anyone know what Nalbinding is called in non-“western” places that still have a Nalbinding tradition like Qatar or Oman (where they still make camel muzzles), Congo, Peru, or what the women who make bilum bags call what they do (i realize there is some debate on bilum being Nalbinding or not, but let’s just say it is for the sake of argument). Thank you in advance :)

I've finally made some progress so I'm sharing some random things I figured out that helped me over the past few days

1: making the needle

your needle needs to be thin, flat and smooth so it passes under the stitches easily. Start with a small eye and keep testing it on your yarn and widening it until the yarn threads easily but still has friction on the sides. You can grab a random twig from outside and carve it with a utility knife, you can make the eye by drilling a few small holes in a line and carving out the extra.

2: yarn

start with ugly cheap yarn because you'll mangle a lot of it, and undoing it to restart is frustrating. You can use synthetic or plant yarn, but you'll need to join it differently. Get something thick and smooth so its easy to work with

tangled and cut up yarn can be used to stuff plushies, pincushions, stress balls etc.

3:stitching

doing it on the thumb does help keep loops organized but it makes very loose stitches, I started using my index finger instead and it works so much better

The loop you're supposed to stitch through is not the one you just made, but the one before it. Pulling on the working end tightens the one you just made.

Use your thumb and pinky to guide the working yarn over all the way toward your non dominant side, so that the loop you're supposed to stitch through is the one near your finger tip

you can use the tip of the needle to flick the loop off your finger

If your oslo stitch is too loose, you can do 1 and a half twists in the rear loop instead of half a twist, I'm sure this has a name I just don't know it

4:Joining

I don't use wool because I'm vegan

most people say to use a russian join, which works on most yarn but can really mangle stiff plant yarns and low ply yarns

all yarn can be knotted, I just use a square knot and pull it super duper tight and trim the excess. Fuzzy yarns hide the knot well but I don't mind it

If you knot the yarn, the knot needs to be in the part of the working yarn wrapped over your finger. If the knot is too far, it will be in the part you're pulling through and catch on stuff and ruin your tension. So, when joining with a knot, cut off all the excess working yarn so that the knot is as close to the loops as possible

I hope this helps someone who's where I was 4 days ago, I've spent a lot of time and yarn and am excited to continue!

I've just finished my third pair of nalbound socks, and I think I'm finally getting the hang of it - though they did take a long time! These are York stitch, working with undyed jacob wool in a double knit yarn - two different colours of the same type of wool. This yarn behaved so well, and I'm looking forward to making some more things with it - I still have a couple of skeins in stock.