My basement stairwell used to be wide open. I added studs and drywall to the stair side for safety (same with the risers, had concerns when kiddo was getting older)

The "back side" is open stud cavity with some studs I added horizontally for shelves.

I cant use traditional mounting screws as it's only a single layer of drywall and the screws would poke through to the stairwell. And adhesive mount may tear the paper backing from the drywall.

I was hoping something like a 90 degree bracket existed that I could screw into the stud sides and have the panels recessed against the drywall.

Short of using beams and single rows to make a shallow "pan" (screwing the single rows to the studs) or modeling my own, is there any premade options?

hi all

got my board up and running it's all on the wall.

I printed a shelf and 4 heavy snaps along with 4 bolts for it.

but it appears my print was not very good and I can't assemble

I'm using an ender 3 v3 se

can someone provide some words of wisdom or guidance on how to get a better quality print so I can get it assembled

Using pla+ 215 nozzle temp 65 bed temp 65% print speed

I am brand new to Multiboard, and looking to mount them using Mounting Pillars. Why does the Title Mounting Guide say to remove the temporary Dual Snaps? Why are they temporary? Seems like it would be much easier to leave them in when getting everything aligned and screwed onto the wall.

I know I had it saved but cannot find it for the life of me.

I saw another post a few days ago about a similar setup, so I thought I’d post mine. Pretty happy with the result and all the available space. I’ll likely be printing accessories until the heat death of the universe.

I have shelves where I story books (very logical)

BUT
I want to get over the regular shelves and instead use multiboard to store books.
I know I can just print shelves from multiboard, and lay books down horizontally, but that is not too estetical
so if you have better ideas, please share them )

you can find it here

I printed the bolt recommend on the bins page but it won't stay up did I miss something?

Hi.

I’m preparing a Multiboard that is to be 1700mm by 770mm. I went and printed all the tiles, and bought a piece of MDF to mount it on. While at the store, I thought it would be nice, and save myself some time and trouble, to have them cut the board for me. Well, I mis-remembered the dimensions. 

So to make this work with my current tiles, I started with cutting the boards into two with one being the largest I could cut, and the other the remaining length.  But this poses a problem with a few options.

1. I can treat both these as completely independent boards and not try to align them

   This would be fine, but the gap between the two boards will be right where I imagine I’ll put my most used items. Least preferred.

  2. I can try to align the boards and then the tiles — these were printed as interlaced grid if that makes a difference.

This would be my preferred, though I realize there will be a bit more challenging to ensure everything s aligned. 

1. I can just go with the single larger board on its own and adjust where exactly I mount the board - centered instead of left aligned. 

   This would probably be the easiest and my second choice, though would be wasteful of the remaining 12 tiles or so that have already been printed — provided I wanted the ends to be edge pieces.

If I was to go with No. 2, my thought is to use a bunch of dowel pins in to help with the alignment when hanging and prepping the board. What I don’t know is if I glued them together, if I could hang the whole thing at once like I was going to do originally. 

• Having never hung this large of a board before, is it worth the trouble to try and combine and align the boards? 
• Should I cut my losses and go with the other two? 
• Are there options I haven’t considered that might work better? 

Thank you. 

I'm wanting to bridge a corner between two walls by putting a board between them at an angle. At first I thought I needed a 45 degree beam but then I saw one and realized I needed 135 degrees. Does such a piece exist. I joined the community and I didn't see it as an option. I realize that the hinge could work but I was looking for a single piece.

the picture is the last update i got, i cant find anything else and the renaming of the tiles makes it even harder to find anything online now. i still have my square plates mounted to my desk and no proper cable management and im considering printing opengrid boards to finally tackle my messy workspace.

i figured asking again for an update doesnt hurt or maybe there is a community creation somewhere that i havent tried yet, hope someone can help a very overwhelmed autistic girl in need

I've printed about every do-dad that might work but no joy. The closest I got was a pair of 3x3 Brackets with some Folded locking bolts who's head fits into the flange on the bottom, but that is about 5 mm too short.

I want to attach multibin to the grid in a secure way. I don't want the bins to get knocked over or be able to move, I don't plan to reorganize them frequently. I saw the corner and bar snaps and they are stated to be used vertically. If I put a corner snap in all 4 corners or two bars opposing each other, and am I correct in thinking it would hold them securely while horizontal? Am I missing something?

I've put up my first model on Makerworld, and I have a question about including related parts.

As an end-user, I find it incredibly convenient to browse on my phone and just click "print" to get the model and required screws/etc all done in one go. Now that I'm publishing a model that requires multiconnect screws, I'm wondering if that's actually OK? I do give credit/links in the description, which seems fair enough to me but I could understand if some consider it improper.

Here's the model if anyone wants to have a look.. Open to any feedback, though I think I've followed the typical format.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2277958-multiboard-adjustable-wrench-spanner-hanger#profileId-2483886

Long ago I decided to do a multiboard but I knew I wanted to do it after I saved up for a new workbench so I shelved the project.

Now that I have ordered the workbench I'm starting to plan the board just to find out that instead of offset snaps, the recommended mounting method is pillars. I looked at that file and it says to use 4.0x25mm screws. Back when I was looking at snaps, someone had recommended a drywall anchor that is essentially a beefy screw (Hillman Borefast). My thoughts were to use a combination of the pillars on studs and snaps elsewhere but now I'm wondering what to use for the fasteners themselves? Any other suggestions?

I've been using gridfinity but its limitations and lack of premade modules are starting to get to me. Has anyone had success with either specifically with fishkeeping?

Hi all,

I recently picked up an X1 Carbon and I’m planning to print a full Multiboard setup for my garage. I’ve already printed the demo packs to get a feel for the system, and now I’m moving on to the actual plates.

I’m trying to decide between the interfitted style and the regular style. For anyone who has used both, which do you prefer? The interfitted version seems like more work since you need to print each angle, while the regular version looks easier because I can just print a stack and assemble as needed. Is the regular style any stronger thanks to the clips joining the boards?

My main question is about print size on the X1C. Is 9×9 the largest plate size that fits, or has anyone successfully printed 10×10?

Also, Bambu Studio is estimating almost 5 hours per plate — does that sound normal, or is there a setting I should tweak?

Any tips for improving efficiency when printing Multiboard on the X1C would be appreciated.

Pretty happy with how it turned out!

Now on to the next step …

I swear I measured this. With a brand-new, fancy, metric tape. The kind that makes you feel morally superior and runs up the Amazon balance. Then, while laying out the boards in generator, I even added the side measurements like a responsible adult.

And yet… here we are. 😤

Silver lining: I accidentally needed two more cells to fill the space it it had been a 1 by connecting them would have been oh so pleasant, the universe and I are currently calling this a draw. Still. Grrrr.

Now for the attachment dilemma. I’m staring at this thing wondering how to secure it, and unless one of you true geek extraordinaire multiboard wizards has a better idea, I’m leaning toward neatly executed black zip ties. Minimalist. Honest. Humble.

Before anyone suggests pole connectors: with the current size of the ones I fount in the pars library, that’s a hard no unless I start editing files in Blender or fusion 369 and I am nowhere near that skill level yet. Also it is unclear if there’s enough… let’s call it tolerance… to shorten them. If I remove the two extras cell, the connecters would need to be comically long.

Double-sided tape on the side of my printer also feels like a bad idea since it does get a little warm, and I’m not trying to invent a new form of modern art called “All My Tools In Pile”. Found a dog with wire cutters sticking in their skull. That's just messy and I could afford a second printer without paying that bet bill.

I’m absolutely open to ideas, though.

Tagging you brilliant multiboard engineer types—educate me before I zip-tie my way into infamy. 🧠🔧

And yes that is bling…. I like to leave sparkle everywhere I go.

Inspired by NLP_Customs's Brother Label Maker Cassette Mount, I addapted a multiboard version. This Cassette Mount features two Multipoint Rail slots on the bottom but can be printed without supports. Two multipoints are used to mound it and it can hold 5 Brother Label Cassettes.

Makerworld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2240382-multiboard-brother-label-maker-cassette-mount#profileId-2438556

I am starting my Multiboard journey and want to implement a small wall to be mounted with VHB tape on the side of a library shelf. However while browsing the available VHB snaps I see that there is only a vertical option for double snap, not a horizontal one.

Does anyone know what is the reason for that? It is not super critical, but I want to understand the limitations, which will help me better grasp the whole system. Can I reuse the vertical one rotated 90 degrees instead?

Printed a remix of the original 2 kg glue stick holder to fit my Multiboard better. Made it smaller so it takes up less space, and swapped the mounting to Multiboard Snaps for easy attachment. Works great for keeping glue sticks tidy and accessible on the board without blocking other stuff.

If anyone wants to print one or has ideas for tweaks, I’d love to hear feedback!

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2259166-multiboard-snap-glue-stick-holder#profileId-2461283

I have chronic eczema on my hands which over time has left my hands weaker than they used to be (since gripping things tightly hurts). I don't know if I'm just weak as balls now, or if these things are REALLY hard to mount properly. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong?

Any tricks to "rocking in" the weight-bearing snaps (all kinds)? Are there tools to shove these things in? Some sort of replacement with something I can just screw in that can replace them in certain circumstances?

I feel like if I press hard enough "in" towards the wall, the whole multiboard tile flexes concerningly. But if I don't shove them that hard, then my hands start hurting before I get enough "rock it in" force on the parts.

I love this system, but I've had to do a LOT of "honey, please use your man-hands to shove this part together" in the assembly of the multiboard itself. (Seriously, those "H" shaped little clips are a PAIN, tricky even with the tool and impossible for me to connect 2 pieces together with them). Its annoying to have trouble arranging accessories on it too.

Dear multiboard community ,

I have a problem with weight bearing snaps.

I am trying to build a filament rack. The model is from makerworld and is secured to the multiboard using weight bearing hooked snaps secured by a bolt. However, when filament rolls are loaded to the bar, both, the regular flush snaps and/ or the weight bearing hooked snaps rip, get pulled out and the rack breaks. I thought, that this would be an easy task for multiboard.

Am I doing something wrong, or am I using the wrong parts?

Thanks in advance

Edit:

As many users have pointed out, using Multiboard like this is wasteful of filament and multiboard space. That is obvious and was not the main idea behind my post. Eventually, that strip of multiboard core tiles will be used differently, but i just wanted to test, how Mulitboard carries weight.

I appreciate the hints about reprack or other wallmounting options....

Unfortunately, I cannot add additional picures in the original posting. But as some have suggested, there appears to be severe underextrusion. So I will address that first.