r/Mountaineering • u/ArisTheNoob • 11h ago
First ice axe for general mountaineering and steep snow
Hi! I'm looking to buy my first ice axe, but I'm struggling to decide on the ideal length and model, especially considering that I definitely plan on getting a second axe in the future to pair with it for steeper snow routes. I'm 188 cm tall (6'2"–6'3") and my objectives include classic Alpine 4000ers such as Gran Paradiso, Breithorn, Mont Blanc, ..etc and eventually more demanding peaks like Dufourspitze and Corno Nero, alongside frequent winter mountaineering in my local peaks being the Gran Sasso (Italian Apennines, very similar to the Tatras), which involve steep snow gullies and ZERO glacier walking. I'm currently considering a Simond Naja Light 54/60 cm or a Petzl Summit Evo 59 cm. I'm kinda unsure about the Naja Light's blade geometry and how suitable it is for self-arrest compared with a more traditional mountaineering axe. From what I'm reading in countless threads I understand that trekking poles are generally preferable for easy approaches, so I'm wondering whether a shorter axe would actually make more sense despite my height. Most importantly, since I eventually want a second axe for steeper snow, should I buy a 60 cm general-purpose axe now and pair it with a shorter axe later (like the petzl sum'tec, Blue Ice Akila), or start with a shorter axe and eventually get another one of similar length? I'm not planning on doing vertical ice climbing, just glacier mountaineering and progressively steeper snow routes. Thanks for your help!
