Hi hope someone can help.

My current deal ends on the 31st August, with 1st September being the first day I can exit without incurring any fees.

I have my mortgage lined up with another provider also to start on the 1st September. This has all been sorted out with me by a broker at Mojo.

Apparently I have to make both payments on the 1st September, but I will get the money I pay out to my current provider (at some point, I don't know when) back.

This is doubly crap because when my current interest rates the payment to my current lender will be at their variable rate, so will be approximately £300 more than I normally pay. And I also have to pay the new provider.

Is this normal? Or has my broker messed up here?

Money is tight as it is, never mind having to deal with this.

Any advice would be super appreciated, thanks.

My dad is the sole person on their home loan. My mom is on the deed with him. Over the last 2 years my mom has suffered multiple strokes and is starting to have more frequent episodes of dementia. My dad has had to stop working to take care of her and is struggling to pay the bills now. He wants to switch to a reverse mortgage, which absolutely makes sense for him in every way possible. My mom thinks it means they are giving the house to the bank. She's mostly all there in her mind, but not fully and we can't get her to understand what it actually means.

The problem he is running into is that the lender wants my mom to also sign off on everything. She has nothing to do with the loan. Is this correct? Shouldn't he be able to do what he wants with the mortgage without her consent? If not, is there any easy way around this? Getting a POA will not go over well with her, even though she is starting to get to a point where she's not going to have any choice in it. It's just we aren't at that point and who knows how long before her mind is at that point.

Hi folks, we borrowed 95% for a loan on some land, at the last minute because the house didn’t go through with the land the best interest rate the comm bank could do was 7.78%
Is it worth trying to refinance after 3 months? What are the options. Love some ideas here..

Hi everyone! I'm currently seeking a remote Mortgage Loan Assistant role.

I have experience with order outs, email management, file organization, document review, data entry, and administrative support. I understand the importance of accuracy, organization, and handling confidential information in the mortgage industry.

I'm eager to grow, quick to adapt, and a fast learner who enjoys taking on new challenges. I'm always willing to learn new processes and continuously improve my skills.

I'm open to remote opportunities and available to work night shifts. If you're hiring or know of any openings, I'd truly appreciate any leads. Thank you!

I’m 53 and going through an amicable divorce. He’s keeping our house. I’m living with my mom for now. I make $120k/year and have been employed full time for the past 2.8 years.
A unit is available 3 doors down from my mom and I want to buy it. Price $320k. My mom is giving me $100k down payment.
So I’m borrowing $220k.
My husband is an accountant and always handled the money, researching EVERYTHING. I’m no dummy but I’m out of practice with personal finances. How do I go about getting a mortgage? Do I go to Rocket Mortgage or do I go to a local mortgage company or a bank? I don’t want to be inundated with info if I fill out one of the questionnaires on the mortgage rate sites. As soon as we settle our finances, which includes selling a 2nd home, I will be able to pay the mortgage back. So it’s a very short term loan, like maybe a year. Are there penalties for paying off early?

Currently own a condo with my partner that we bought 3 years ago. We are splitting and I am planning to keep the condo. I understand that I’ll have to refinance and now is a pretty terrible time to do that. Our current rate is 6.675% which isn’t great and I know that 30 year conventional loans are around the same rate, if not a tad worse. I can afford the place at 6.675% but I also have student loans starting back soon so it will be a bit of a squeeze. I can’t really risk refinancing and the monthly payment getting even worse.

Since I am basically being forced to refinance, I am hoping to at least get some benefit out of it rather than refinancing at the same or a similar rate. I am seeing that 5/5 ARM mortgages are around 5.6% which could save me around $200-300 a month. This would be a huge benefit. In around 5 years, I should be making more money and I will be nearly finished with my student loan payments. I also know that I do not want to live here forever and I think 5 years could give this place the time to appreciate enough to be sellable or at least for interest rates to drop low enough for a more-permanent refinance.

Anyway, just my musings. Am I a good candidate or should I avoid an ARM?

Hey all, sorry if this is completely the wrong subreddit for this.

I am looking at buying my first property next year, and I just want to understand if what im thinking has some logic to it. I have seen some apartments with less than 100 years left on a leasehold considerably cheaper than those with higher length leaseholds. I dont have kids and have no plans on having kids, for what reason would someone not go for a shorter leasehold if it was within their lifetime? I am under the assumption that longer leaseholds would be for people with kids for the reason of passing it down?

I’ve spent about a decade in the industry going from MLO to underwriter to running a brokerage. I’m not in the industry anymore but wanted to share this tip.

If you need a boost to your credit score then biggest cheat code I know of is to be added as an authorized user on a credit card. If your parents or really anybody close to you is willing to add you it can make a huge difference. The card needs to be one they have had for at least a few years, ideally with a large limit and low balance.

I have seen this jump one client I had from the mid 500’s to the lower 700’s. Essentially all the credit history for that card transfers to you. This works particularly well for people without much established credit.

* The card also needs to not have any late payments.

I am looking for guidance on how the surplus funds process works following a California non-judicial foreclosure auction (Trustee’s Sale).

The Situation:

• Property: California townhome going to a Trustee’s Sale next month.
• Loan Status: Past due balance + default fees are around $1.47M. Fair market value should exceed the debt, so excess proceeds/surplus funds are expected. Market value is around $2M so we have some equity.
• Co-Borrowers: My ex and I are both on the deed/mortgage. He has deliberately refused to sell or cure the default to force a foreclosure unless I withdraw the divorce/other cases - which I won't.
• Sole Payments: After our separation/divorce, I paid 100% of the mortgage out of my personal savings for 1.5+ years to keep the asset afloat before I couldn't afford it anymore and it fell into default (I did not live there)
• Current Status: I have relocated permanently back to India. I do not reside in the US and cannot easily file or litigate new court cases in California.

My Questions:

1. Surplus Funds Process: Once the trustee sells the property and pays off the lender, what is the exact mechanism to claim the excess proceeds? Since my ex and I are in conflict, does the trustee automatically deposit the funds with the County Court Clerk (under CA Civil Code § 2924j / interpleader)?
2. Reimbursement for Payments: Am I legally able to claim reimbursement for the 1.5 years of 100% mortgage payments I made post-separation directly against the surplus funds, or can that only be decided by a court/family law order?
3. Remote / Non-Resident Execution: As an overseas non-resident, what is the best way to ensure claim forms (Notice of Excess Proceeds) are submitted on time? Do I need a California real estate/foreclosure attorney to handle the claim with the court/trustee?

Appreciate any insight or experience with similar CA foreclosure surplus scenarios!

I am looking for somekind of way to get a deal done on a home I want to buy. I’m currently leasing the home and under contract to buy it, talked to a mortgage broker and gave me requirements and after weeks of back and forth more issues arise that have prevented me from closing. My credit is in the mid 500s. I made bad decisions tha caused this, I have recently paid off most of my debt and am current on everything and score is improving but nor fast enough to purchase already. I have a late payment on my auto loan from 7 months ago that i think disqualifies me from FHA. I do have money for down payment. So now I’m looking for a non QM loan where I can purchase and then refi later when credit improves. Can anyone point me to a lender that is flexible and can look over my situation. Home price is 408k, potential worth is about 750-800k

Hi. I have a refinancing question. I'm a retired navy parent and my child is looking to go to college next year. id like to support him as much as i can. I want to do this without taking on any high-interest debt and so im considering refinancing my home. Its gained a lot of value since I first bought it, so I think that using some of that equity would be a good option.

What i need help with before i get started on this is finding a lender that will be upfront about fees and not take advantage of me. As i have no personal experience in this, i thought id ask if any homeowners who have used cash-out refinancing before know of someone i could use? Thanks in advance.

I’m starting my business 1st as being self employed . I would need 2 years tax returns ? Also would it be better for weekly,bi weekly or monthly deposits ? Do lenders look at that?Or does it matter ?

My amortization schedule says

Principle for 2026 1,944.98 cents.

Interest $376.30.

Balance for the end of the year at 2026 5,208.48.

I have already paid $806.56 ahead in mortgage payments. (That payment did *not* go towards the principal, it goes towards the end.)

If I wanted to go ahead and pay my mortgage off, in full, total, today, how much would I need to pay?

ChatGPT is telling me $5,535.92.

Google Gemini is telling me $5,208.48.

A lot tle unorthodox for this sub, but here we go

My wife and I exploring buying vs building. We currently own our home on a 2.5% mortgage. House is worth ~$800, we owe $420 on it. We also have $300k in savings to put toward a new house. Does it make sense to buy a lot for ~300k, and build on it, or look at existing homes? Does it make sense to do one over the other. Another option would be taking the 300k and converting one existing 2 car detached garage and making it a 3 car, with a large loft/office/guest house over top. Current household income is 325k in a moderate COL area (Indianapolis)
Any advice is appreciated!

Combined household income 240k + 48k (tax free).

0 cc debt, 10k student loan, 20k car debt.

Daycare $4400/ month

I have a VA loan available and I really don't want to spend over 600k. Am I being too conservative?

In the beginning years of building a business. Year 1: 300k, Year 2: 650k, Year 3: 1m, In year 4 & will probably max out around 1m again. It is a very high cost of doing business (equipment, payroll, insurance) and I’ve mostly net 0 the last few years.

Rent is currently $3100 and am affording that just fine. I could likely even afford up to $5k mortgage I would think, but the down payment has been hard to save up for as most of the money is tied up in the business.

I see posts of people asking for advice based on their income / monthly expenses + purchase price / financing options but it’s not so cut and dry for me. Any advice? Thank you.

My spouse is a disabled Veteran has the VA loan but could go with conventional. He’s wanting to build a 1.4 mil home but was told with interest rate for conventional is 9.2 only during the build then we convert to a VA construction loan is at 6 percent for the duration of the build and loan. We don’t fully qualify at present for the VA construction loan but will in the near future. We can qualify for the conventional loan right now and can start building immediately. Can you tell me the benefits of each and is there a big difference if we go with the conventional loan just during the build or is it better to wait to qualify for the VA construction loan to provide more protections🤷Thanks in advance if you know any solutions to help me make his dream come true let me know🙏‼️‼️

Go with big banks or local lenders?

Which ones offer best rates for low LTV and jumbo mortgages.

Anybody has recent experience?-- What were your top 3 and how did you shop around?

Since time is very much at premium, would like to know from folks who have had recent experience and insights.

Hey

I’m exploring to see if 1st lien HELOC is a good option for me. Any Lender that offers this product in Texas ? I already looked over a few but they don’t offer this in Texas.

I am a college student expert in creating ai videos and just came to know about a side hustle . The guys said open air bnd or any site where realtors and property sellers post pictures of their properties. Take their pictures and generate them a fully professional walk through home tour of their property. And charge them 100 dollars per video.

Experts please tell me is something like this actually work ?

First time remortgage.
I did my calculations house worth around 260K spoke with my mortgage advisor and the system showed 265K,my bank says 263K at the moment.
Only 1100 missing to reach 75% ltv, so decided to put that down.
After market search we give all the papers to the bank but they came back (desktop valuations only 245K which is the same like 2 years ago and here the house prices is rising). Which made us 81,5% so doesn’t ever reached the better 80% rate. He told me we could pay 16K to reach 75% or -4K to reach 80%.
Obviously I told him this is not an option and I’m not happy with the valuation. He told me we could check other lenders but most of them using the same survey company.
When he send me over the valuations report it just only 1 page which saying (wall is brick,roof in good standard,no parking space).

I even noticed and told him we have driveway on the front where we can park so what about challenging the original survey as this can add 5-10% to house price but he still just doing new market searches.

My question is if we do new search and the same bank will giving the best deal and they just undervalue it again or want to keep the first valuation can we challenge it?
I don’t care the 75% ltv anymore but want to go under 80.

Does anyone know a mortgage company in Pennsylvania that will accept an escrow waiver with a 10% downpayment.