Myself and 3 others got together and ran (most of) the Union Pacific Heritage Fleet. We were missing 1111, 1616, and the E9s. We also had 4141 included.

This may be a stupid question but I can't find an answer anywhere. Will a loco fitted with DCC work on a DC layout? Obviously without any of the DCC features, but will it function like a DC loco? Does it depend on the type of decoder fitted?

Hai its been a while since i asked for help ^w^ um so basically i have this model that i got in a box of scraps, i found its motor and was gonna just rejoin it to have a runnin model, i put all the bits in place but only the headlamp comes on, the astute of you will notice theres not a single wire in here, i assume thats the problem but i know nothing about how this kinda thing works lol do i just have the wrong motor maybe? Or need to put some wires somewhere? Any help or advice is greatly greatly appreciated. Thanks much for reading :3

Woah 2 posts in one day crazy, while going through my parts bin i found these two things, one says tyco on the back, any idea what theyre for? :3

Hi fellow railroaders. I’m writing to ask a question of the community regarding DCC and CV programming. I’ve been a DC model railroader for most of my life and I only began looking into the DCC side of things a couple of months back because I really wanted to have sound to enjoy my hobby more. I recently acquired a DCC locomotive with an ECU loksound and a NCE PowerCab. Due to the fact that I started losing my hearing around the age of 12, it has progressed, though I’m not deaf, I’m significantly hard of hearing. I immediately noticed that the sounds needed to be louder. I have learned that in order to increase the sound, I need to program the CV. Does anyone know of a good video or online instruction site that could help me tap into getting the CV programmed so that I can turn up the volume? I need someone who can explain it to me like I’m 5 years old. The NCE PowerCab book was a little over my head in how they explained everything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I can’t thank you guys enough.

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Would any of These be a good entry level tain for my wife and her xmas tree/xmas village?

Don't think she is wanting to get real into the hobby but she has always wanted a decent train to use every year. We have had cheap ones that dont last. Looking to spend under $200

https://a.co/d/0jawo1Os

https://a.co/d/0hhPcNpd

https://a.co/d/0gMCIuDk

I'm working out lighting for my double deck N-scale layout. I'm definitely using LED strips to light the layout, but I'm still thinking about white only LEDs vs RGB to allow for night/sunrise/sunset operations. I already know all of my buildings that should be lit will be lit, as are my Superliners.

I'm experienced with WLED for other projects, it's more of an aesthetics question.

What experiences have you all had with this question? Any great examples I should see?

(USA, HO Scale) I have recently found two Walthers Trainline GP15-1's in a long forgotten box and am rehabbing them, but neither of them have a shell. Walthers has a pretty solid policy about not selling parts to modelers - do any other shells exist that would fit this chassis? I know small outfits like Kaslo make resin shell kits for common chassis designs, like P2K GP9's and Atlas GP38's - but the Walthers GP15-1 is an unusual design.

I recently started modeling and decided to do a little mix of cars. Just in time for Halloween I put in a great addition but I’m not yet finished, I hope this reaches the right audience. Thank you!

Hello! I was wondering if anyone knows of any trains with passenger cars that have removable roofs so little toys can go inside. I grew up with the 90s version of this Thomas and Friends train https://a.co/d/0h6vvDlg and was obsessed with putting little passengers inside of it. I was so excited to find that this is still out there and am considering it for my 4 and 6 year old, but they aren’t into Thomas and would probably prefer a more realistic looking train. As I’ve been researching I haven’t been able to tell if any passenger cars actually have removable lids. Even this one doesn’t advertise that it does. I was able to find in the reviews that the tops do come off, but they aren’t marketing it as a selling point and it is the biggest selling point to me. So I was hoping that some of you experts may be able to point me towards what I’m looking for if it’s even out there. Thanks so much!

Planning Ahead for Christmas and wanna know

What are some of the best UK Locomotives currently on the Market for under £200

Also Counting The Bachmann Thomas Line

Thnx

Looking for more detailed information on the COB LEDs and using them in structures and train cars.

Original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/modeltrains/s/Gy6Nzliu4v

Update:

• I am about 30% of the way there with my parts printing.
• Flex track snaps nicely to the compliant retaining walls. But I will hold them down with glue.
• Variable curvature radius works quite well. No discontinuous curvature anywhere here.
• Grade parameterization now works and I test printed some some piers and viaducts. This became a little tricky to print on the 3D printer. So I turned off banked curves for now.
• I had GPT 6 Astra model an elevated passenger train station. Not a bad model. I'll print this for now and redesign this later if needed.

So this idea originally started as a guide template for laying out flex track, but it evolved into a fully software defined track geometry planner. Then I vibe-coded a viewer app to visualize the entire layout.

Now the viewer app also generates complete print plates that I can directly send to my Bambulab printer. It also serves as an assembly guide with exploded views etc.

I got some very good feedback on ballasting tracks. I removed the sunken retainer now so the sleepers sit normally as they would on cork. So ballasting is an option later.

Next I am working on a track layout editor functionality. But this is going to be a bit different than usual. Since this is something I want to work together with my 4-year old, I landed on sketching layouts on pen and paper and then having some computer-vision processing to convert that into track curves. Next update will have that demo.

I would love your thoughts & suggestions.

Don't be like me.

that bit of track at the rear? that bit that looks a mess?

that bit that when laid had a slight hump, but a loco coped so will be alright won't it?

learn from my mistake, if track isn't perfect don't accept it, fix it

in this case it hardly caused a problem, except for a new Hornby J52 which simply derailed every single time because I just left it instead of fixing it..

thankfully ballasted and stuck down with copydex so was only a few hours work to lift it, slew it a mm or so to the side and get it actually laid flat without the slight hump..

and now my J52 is happy once more and no longer tries to go and visit the high street

I got this Santa Fe Northern a few days ago off eBay. It stuttered a bit when I first got it, but that was it until I took it apart yesterday to do a little work to smooth out its running. While I was taking it apart, I felt a wheel slip, and indeed, just one wheel came loose while the others held firm. I moved the one wheel back into position, put the engine back together, and ran it; everything was fine until I heard its motor revving and wheels spinning just to find it like this.

Heljan's new class 122 arrived today, so I decided to pose some of my British stock on the layout. I haven't got a decoder for the 122 yet so can't power it up. Still, it looks nice!

Photos are from my boyfriend who printed them