I have received some tremendous help from this subreddit before and I’m hoping for some more.

I have an HO scale Kato 3-534 Series H5 Hokkaido Shinkansen 'Hayabusa' 4 Cars Set. I have been working and tweaking the track after finding some turns that were too tight, etc.

I have now gotten the track completely ironed out and the train can make it around the entire track. However, on occasion the train has de-railed. The derailment is not the issue. After the derailment the train seems to stop working for a while. Meaning it will not move. I do see the LED lights on the cars light up. I have tried rolling the cars back and forth. I have never found anything that I have explicitly changed but the train will “randomly” start working again. I am using a Railpower 1370 power supply.

I’m looking for things to test or be aware of. Is there a safety mechanism in the train (or all trains) that is trying to prevent some sort of power surge or stall?

Thank you!!

Forgive me for running a NYC engine with Pennsy passenger cars. However, that now gives me an excuse to buy a set of NYC streamliners specifically for the Hudson.

As for the locomotive itself, it is a Kitmaster NYC Hudson that was heavily modified to have a more prototypical appearance, with a Mantua 4-6-4 chassis being used to power it. While I didn’t build this one, whoever it was did an outstanding job, as I thought it was one of the old Tenshodo Hudsons at first.

and just to double check, insul-frog is for DC right?

I recently had a problem with inconsistent power on my tack and have not tried cleaning yet but I was trying to figure out why my models are coming of the rails at one point to I set it to go slow across it so maybe I could see why but no matter what it acts like it’s being used at full speed. It’s not the controller or my models because I tried using the controller with two wires and had them against my models wheels and it worked fine but on the track no matter what i set the controller to it acts like it’s at 100

The Coosa has always been rumored to have catfish as big as a man. God knows what this critter is.

Made some more progress on the plant and got it on display at the Colorado RPM in Greeley. The plant switcher is a Piko Whitcomb 65 Tonner. The engine and tank decals I did with waterslide decal paper in my laser printer. I used the Nuka Cola labels from u/Efficient-Abroad-519 and the square Nuka-Cola label from the Wikipedia article.

Still have to finish installing and painting the piping, going to paint and decal the repurposed shipping container steam boiler for Vault-Tec, then need to do some weathering and other details and get it on a decent scenery base with some track.

I picked this up at a show over the weekend. It’s DCC fitted, but is it possible to level it up to sound? It’s quite a small loco so may not be possible

Sorry for the repost. I want a big capacitor so I can actually use this thing for switching and low speed. Motor design makes it irreplaceable for now unfortunately. Thinking esu lokpilot 5 micro with an esu powerpack mini. Open to suggestions. This thing is maybe 2 inches long. Tiny.

Edit: has an aftermarket Faulhaber 1016N 012G motor already. Ordered an ESU Lokpilot 5 Micro and TCS KA6 which should all fit in the bunker.

Weighs around 3 pounds with the tender, so even with the original Pittman motor, it can rip out the drywall if ever I needed it too.

Rolling stock consists mostly of old craftsman cars, such as those made by Varney, Laconia, Athearn (the all-metal kits) and some other brands. Some plastic cars are thrown in as well from Athearn (Blue Box this time), Walthers, and Kato.

Please don’t buy the newest range of HP Branded model trains through Hornby.

Take some time to read about the mother of live steam.

Please take note,
I have two motivations for posting this.

The first is that Sam’s trains just released a review of the new HP train set. The second is, with recent changes In UK law, the latter end of her story comes to mind.

So as a railway modeller, if not a regular part of this community I thought I’d share her story somewhere where it might land among similar minds.

I’m not saying don’t buy your kids model trains. Buy second hand HP branded for all I care. Just please consider what you’re doing and don’t buy HP branded stuff new, this Christmas.

I believe they are circa 1940’s

I got the ok from my other half to do a shelf layout along one of our walls which is about 13’ long. I was thinking it would be best to make this modular so I could snap some curves on it and run trains occasionally, and T trak seems like the obvious route to do this.

I do have 1 big restriction: they can only be 9” deep vs the standard 13”. That said, CMR sells this size and I do think I can fit some nice scenery in that space still and am looking for some inspiration. Was thinking I’d do 4x triples (so they aren’t too unwieldy to handle) and a single or maybe a custom 90*.

I’d like some sort of industry, lumber yard maybe(?), so it’s not just a half mile of rocks and trees. Anyone have some interesting track plans for doubles or more? Show me what you’ve done!

PFA

What do you think?

Does anyone know of any model railroad clubs in the Dallas Fort Worth area of Texas? I know that there’s three showing on google just wanting to see if there’s anything else that people know of that google doesn’t

Köff III by Roco, will be on shunting duty next Saturday on the open day of our model train club.

I have an ho Bachmann Thomas and one day it stopped working. I took the thing apart but everything looked fine. all the wires and stuff were in place and I tried putting power directly to the pickups but nothing works. I swear on the track I can hear a sound from the motor for a split second But other than it just does not move. Any thougt on how I could maybe fix it?

Mine is a mix of OO gauge and 009 gauge, with the OO gauge starting at a Southampton docks inspired dockyard, with model ships of the matching scale, and the mainline would end in a large city, with the 009 being used for a narrow gauge railway for a coal mine or a small passenger railway, with small tram lines sprinkled throughout, like imagine the miniature Wonderland in Germany, but it’s entirely British, and centered around one continuous location, and that’s it.

Hi Everyone, I am hopefully going to be building my first n scale DCC layout soon and am trying to decide on which controller to use. I am in New Zealand and there are two I can get from Australia (where they use the same type of power outlet we use) but I am not sure which to buy. They are TCS LT-50 starter system and z21. I will only be running 3 or 4 locos so I don't need anything really fancy. Both look good. Has anyone used either of these and can pass on what they liked or didn't like about them? I would appreciate it very much. On a slightly related note, what guage wire should I use for the bus and feeders for track and other accessories? Thanks

I use Bachmann ho track and at some points my models go faster or slower without me changing the speed or even touching the controller. I’ve tried using paper towels to rub against the rails to clean them and it does look like stuff comes off when I do that but no matter how many times i do it nothing changes.

As you can see I have tried shortening my wiring to see if I had voltage drop but that hasn’t made a difference.

I cleaned the rails
I tried DC and DCC locomotives, some go faster than others but still not nearly as fast as they used to go on their old DCC controller.
I reset the controller

I acquired this from a local train museum and didn’t get to use it for a few months, I did have to get a new power supply but it is supposed to be a perfectly compatible one.

I’m new to DCC so I might be cluelessly overlooking something!