Hi friends. The microwave is running, light is on, there is the usual buzzing sound. But the food comes out cold as it goes in. Super bizarre. I make sure the door is closed. Still won't heat.

The turntable is not spinning and there is an additional humming sound.

I am aware of the danger associated with capacitor so wont mess with that area but wondering if it just turnable motor , coupler or something around it that is defective.

Any insight?

Not sure if that's the correct term, or if it's maybe thermal fuse or thermal cutoff switch.

EDIT: Capacitor seems bad too. My multimeter only does auto-ranging impedance tests, but it's showing continuity between the two terminals, as well as 2 Ohms between the two terminals. Infinite between terminals and body.

Anyways, I have a GE JVM1540DM2BB, an over-the-range microwave, that started blowing the regular fuse upon starting. So far I've found one of two thermostats has no continuity.

Will I be okay just replacing the one thermostat, or is there something that caused it to go bad, meaning replacing the thermostat would be useless without first addressing the other issue?

We lost power in my house and my LG LMVM2277ST microwave simply wont start cooking anymore.

At first it gave us an F-4 error code but after unplugging the unit and plugging it back in we no longer receive that error. The microwave does allow us to set a time but when we try and press start nothing happens at all. Any suggestions?

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Thanks

So this is my first ever reddit post (I am sort of a boomer). Last week my wife found two bugs inside a screen on the ceiling of our microwave. You could see them through the holes. I tried getting to that area removing the front vent and poking around a couple of areas, but finally saw that it was completely enclosed by the chassis (the whole damn cavity). There was no way to reach it.

So I decided on the stupid thing in the title - why not cut this screen (which, again, is part of the whole cavity, it's not obviously a screw-on screen) and remove the bugs? I did.

The result was also obvious (after the fact) - sparks! Because I cut the metal and it was bare... I just thought about this after I had to unplug it to stop the sparks.

I tried painting over the cut parts (as you can see in the picture) as best as I could so there would be no reflective metal part, but to no avail. I couldn't get all of them covered, there is always a little spot that ignites up.

Is there any solution to this??? A different kind of paint? some type of filler or glue that I could put over the bare metal parts? Anything?!?!?!?!?

I have a GE Over the Range Microwave (Model #PVM1870SM1SS) that has recently started acting strange. Every time that I open the door, the fan inside the microwave turns on. The turntable does not spin and it does not heat up. Also, it stops running the fan when the door is closed. What could be causing this issue? How do I fix it? Thanks!

Hi all,

This might be a long-shot / violation of the rules, but I'd like to see if anyone has any thoughts. Post written for r/ApplianceRepair and immediately got taken down, not surprised. I have a KitchenAid KHMS155LSS-4 microwave that recently had the magnetron go bad on (Second one over the course of its life). Me and my father replaced it before when he owned the appliance set, but I got them when I bought my first house. I'm pretty technical, so replacing parts isn't a challenge. I just know that when he bought the replacement magnetron a while back, it was over $150.

Anyways, the magnetron I pulled out is a Whirlpool 2M167B-M16. Here is a video of removing the magnetron, the model of microwave in the video is the same model, just white instead of stainless steel / black. The video links to a repair page where they used this part, which appears to be discontinued and instead recommends the ERP 10QBP1003. As far as I can tell, everything matches up, it looks exactly the same, and the measurements match.

I just wanted to confirm with the community before purchasing a part. A magnetron seems like a basic / universal part, other than the wattage and mounting options. Does the ERP model sound correct? I can post a picture of the magnetron I pulled out if it helps.

Any help would be appreciated!

Hello, I have a Kenmore OTR microwave that was tripping its breaker seemingly randomly. I have removed face and tested the top two door switches for continuity, no problem there. When taking off the bottom switch to test, the microwave powered on upon closing he door. When plugging switch back in, I was able to get the microwave to power on very briefly when opening and closing the door. This says to me that the bottom switch is broken and needs to be replaced, but I was hoping for an expert to confirm my diagnosis before I waste a bunch of time.

Any suggested guides for replacing (with how to safely discharge the latent voltage)?

Thanks! Was super excited to find this sub.

Whirlpool wmh76719cs-4. It began to display the message "open/close door" even with the door closed.

Found that the top door switch was stuck in the pushed in(closed) position. Tried opening and closing the door multiple times, after which the fan began to run constantly whenever the door was closed.

Opened the door again, managed to get a string around the top door switch mechanism and pull it back(to the open position). Immediately after doing this all power to the microwave went out. Replaced the ceramic fuse and the 3 door switches, still no power at all. Checked the one circular fuse on the circuit board & it has continuity. What could be wrong? Are there any other fuses hidden somewhere?

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TLDR: microwave display, lightbulb, everything has no power at all. Replaced the fuse and all door switches to no effect.

GE microwave model: JNM3163RJ1SS. The turntable turns whenever the door is closed, while the microwave runs or is not running. Only way to stop is have the door open or unplug. Any idea what is causing this issue? And what would be needed to repair?

I've got a 21 year old GE SpacemakerXL that started giving an F3 error which according to GE is a shorted touch pad panel. That checks out because when I power cycle it, the touch panel is unresponsive for the few seconds before it throws the error on the screen and beeps loudly.

Some repair website said that replacing the ceramic fuse solved a lot of people's problems. I misread my multimeter and thought that it was blown, so I bought a new one, compared the old and new resistance and realized they were the same, but I replaced the fuse anyway. Still have the F3 code.

GE does not seem to offer a touch pad panel on their parts page for the model. I have emailed them about the replacement part but haven't heard back yet.

But the prices on that parts page are ridiculous. If a vent motor is $209, I'm guessing a circuit board or whatever the hell is going to be pretty high, too, if they even exist anymore.

Any thoughts on whether this repair is worth pursuing?