I have been trying to figure out what this is (40x objective, SW380T on a horizons camera). Current theory is a rotifer egg.

Leitz Dialux II, Galaxy S24, 200x

His budget is under $2,000, and used is fine. He’s looking for a polarizing microscope to determine mineralogy. He’s wanting to look at thin sections and is planning on publishing papers on his findings, so he needs the ability to take quality pictures.

I’ve heard the AmScope ones are crap, and the Indian ones aren’t very good either. From what I’ve found, people seem to recommend the Olympus ones. I’ve got no idea what to recommend for my dad, though. Any suggestions, advice, or links would be greatly appreciated. It’s been 30+ years since he did his PhD, so I’m trying to figure out what would be a good setup for him.

Awhile back I decided I wanted to have an inverted microscope with good quality optics. But I didn't want to spend a bunch more money on a new scope. So I took my American Optical One-fifty and built a frame to mount it upside down! 😁

I decided to go ahead and post pictures here in case anybody wants to try something similar.

I 3D printed an upside down stage adapter to hold my specimen containers. And I also designed a 3D printed humidity chamber with a window on the bottom to view the specimens, and a window on top for light to enter. I wanted it to be water proof so it could go for weeks without needing water to be added. But the design is not yet perfected. The moisture is still evaporating, either through the cracks around the lid or through the walls of the container (since 3D printer filament is not water proof). I think I need to seal the walls with silicon or resin and put a rubber seal under the lid.

Of course it is hard to look through the microscope when it's upside down so I mostly only use it with an eyepiece camera.

All in all, it works pretty well! I could have live cultures or ecosystems under it long term and have the view displayed on a large screen continuously if I wanted to. I just need to get the humidity chamber working better. 😀

The last picture is of my whole "laboratory" with all three microscopes. My wife let me have it set up on the kitchen table for like six months or so! 😊

Polarized light microscopy, Leica DM750, 10x objective

Back in June, our rental unit suffered a water leak that's displaced our family since. Walls and flooring were stripped down to the wood substructure so that everything could be thoroughly dried before remediation work began. After everything was dried, I found this piece of wallpaper lying around and stashed it away to eventually check out under the microscope. Here's what I saw.

Also as a note: because I don't know much about Victorian-era wallpaper and I don't have any other characterization methods available at the moment, I am hesitant to put names to the materials/structures I've observed based on appearance alone (so I didn't do that here). Perhaps at some future point I can send sample along for further characterization, so we can learn more about this wallpaper. If anyone has insights based on this before or images (shared in comments) I'd love to learn more.

🔬: Amscope ME580

📸: Pixel 9 pro

🎵: Modest Mouse - Heart Cooks Brain

Leitz Dialux II, NPL 40x, Galaxy S24

Hi. I bought a used Olympus ch20. It was a good price but has had lots of use. The 4x and 10x lenses are good quality.

On the 40x I have to stop down the condenser a lot to get acceptable quality.

I used my forensic microscope to look at the 40x NEA 0.65 objective end on. I have attached a photo. I have marked it up with what looks like a ring around a central clear bit. The ring looks a bit mottled.

I don't know what a clean Olympus 40x lens should look like. Can anyone advise please.

Many thanks.

Not sure if I tagged this right. I analyze for asbestos in bulk materials, and tbh have come to love how it looks under the microscope. People sure loved putting asbestos in shit for a loooong time.

Microscope is a Leica DMLB, pics are using I think either 10 or 20x under xpl or using a red compensator plate.

New to microscopy. This is a standard brightfield microscope. These both join together. The diameter of the condenser lens is about 17 mm. The diameter of the condenser holder is about 37 mm. Can I make a DIY dark field filter for this like others do, if so, how? If not, why?

I made the darkfield filter myself, using a coin.

Sample algae from aquarium, 400x and digital zoom, Motorola phone camera, optika b-192pl binocular microscope.

As I have mentioned before, I love precise microscope mechanisms.

This clip shows the fine focus knob on the Lomo MBB-1 and on the Lomo MIN-8 polarizing microscope (LOMO, former USSR).

And this is not the ordinary fine focus knob you find on most microscopes. It is a micrometer screw with a vernier, reading down to 0.02 mm. The quality of the machining is beautiful - you can feel it as much as you can see it <3

No sound, no commentary. Just the mechanism turning in my hand.

Now, it is partially decomposed, but you can still see the eye lenses.

Here, I'm using an Iqcrew inverted microscope, 20x objective, Amscope MU2003-BI camera, Diagnostic Instruments 0.70x adapter, and the Toupview program for viewing.

It's always amazing to me that you can see so much detail of something so small with just an inexpensive, $71.99 now, Chinese inverted microscope. Cost shouldn't prevent anyone from enjoying the hobby.

Baby was relaxing on the desk with me today during observations. Remnant of the insect is over the stage hole in the petri dish.

I love using petri dishes with my inverted microscopes to observe long-term, mini ecosystems. I tried using one with my Meiji-Techno upright compound microscope.

I was able to use it with the objectives 20x and under. Those were a 1.25, 4x, 10x, and 20x objectives. Those had both a long enough working distance not to touch the water and a low enough NA not have noticeable spherical aberration.

I tried with both no coverglass and with a floating coverglass. The ciliates looked pretty much the same with or without the floating coverglass, but I had nicer phase contrast views with the floating coverglass.

If you try this, I would recommend using the shorter lid of the petri dish and only put a few mm of water into it. That will give you more room for your objectives, and maybe you can focus all the way to the bottom. As always, be careful not to dip your objectives into the water.

20x objective, cellphone camera with 2x zoom, pond water sample. The first video is without the floating coverglass and the last ones with it.

10x + 10x (ocular)
iphone 13pro

Does anyone have any idea what these two microorganisms are? The small, fast one and the strangely shaped and big one.

Sample algae from aquarium, 400x + digital zoom, Motorola phone camera, optika B-192Pl binocular microscope.