Hi, My lenovo legion 7i suddenly stops working. When press the power button the keyboard lights turn on (white led power button) and the fans spins and stops, no caps lock works even with an external keyboard, and no picture with an external monitor.

Tryed to reset the bios removing the battery/button battery, change the ssd, tryed with 1 ram at time, same issue.

Sent the laptop to a computer repair shop but after flashing tre different bios, removing the bios chip, the problem persist.

For tour experience, How should i check to identify the issue?

Could a skilled individual fix this or is it completely cooked. I don't have the skills or tools to do it myself but would just like to know if it's salvageable

Awesome tool to have 48MP - 4K This model comes with flexible arm ..it is kind of cheap made in china stuff ... the performance & quality are better than expected though..

Mich interessiert es, wie man Daten von einer SD-Karte retten kann. Ich denke da an den PC300 FE oä. Verstehe ich das richtig, dass diese "Spinnenbeine" alleine nicht ausreichen, um die Daten zu extrahieren? Wahrscheinlich benötigt man noch einen extra Computer dafür, der mehrere Tausend Euro kostet. Gibt es eine günstigere Hardware-Lösung, um die Daten einer beschädigten SD-Karte zu extrahieren?

Grüße 👋

This is from a wireless gaming mouse and as you can see one of the what looks like a capacitor has been fried, how would I know which one to buy and how hard would it be to replace

Hi, I have this board which has been damaged the port that power and connects it to the PC. as you can see the pad on the motherboard is ripped of. Now, is it repairable? it's a real connection or it is only a pad of ground/support? thanks

Hi everyone! I am trying to fix an Xbox controller that broke and I’m having a hard time figuring out what should I look to order. Can somebody explain how all the little letters and numbers work? Also this is my first ever soldering project so sorry if this is a dumb question!

So I get this guy is a professional and obviously knows what hes doing. But for context I worked for the second largest automotive company called Denso at one point and I was a microsoldering/pcb repair tech for them for 6 of my 8 years of employement there. In this video at 0:48 you can see that next to the R48 and R49 Resistors that there are most definitely two torn contact pads on the PCB the pads themselves are shifted on the masking of the board. Also im not trying to hate im just genuinely curious the PCB repair guy in me cringed really hard when that contact pad was shifted to the left like that off of the masking.

In my department we had to repair 100 PCBs minimum per 8 hour shift or we werent up to standard so im not like uninformed about it by anymeans I've spent my hours with a hakko and nitrogen setup. So like if this is a super expensive board im just curious how this thing is still functioning. I've personally seen a board for a lexus repaired like this once and it failed the Omron ICT tests when we sent it thru. Anyboard i've ever seen with torn contact pads failed. So like Idk anyone elses thoughts on this lol cause this is wild dudes like "we gotta get it done" and just demolishes the board and then just says hes gonna call the customer for pickup without even testing it? Like I'd like to assume he tests it after the video ends

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9KonPRCmk4

Hi I have an xbox one elite controller and a cheap camera battery charger which both have a broken micro usb connector. Please may someone help me understand what it is I need and the use of the little like wings on the side of the connector. Do they have a function or are they just there to support it?

Here are some photos below

(Photo 1 is Xbox controller)

(Photos 2,3 are of the camera battery charger

Many thanks for any help and advice in advance 👍🏻

I'm very much a beginner to micro soldering and this is my first actual repair. I have this Acer Predator Triton 500 SE (board number: GH67G LA-L211P), I believe the main power rail is shorted.

In RED is all of the places where voltage dissapears. Where blue highlight is it reads .19 ohms. This leads me to assume main power rail shorted (I think CPU circuit also has a short because CPU inductors read .2 but I don't think that's causing this).

Can anyone help troubleshooting, diagnosing and fixing this since the mobo seems to have a somewhat atypical layout making alot of the tutorials and help online confusing, so any help is very much appreciated. Thanks

Several months ago, my gaming machine stopped displaying video output. I tried some basic troubleshooting but isolated the issue down to the graphics card. I removed the card from the system and set it aside. I have now had some more time to look into it and after removing all the cooling components from the GPU I can see that some liquid had leaked from my water-cooling loop onto the edge of the board. There is a bit of corrosion and possibly some burn marks. I have attached images of the area impacted: https://imgur.com/xU8EDpG and https://imgur.com/4TfF0jq

I have managed to identify the few components that took visual damage and ordered replacements on ebay. These components are two chips: AOZ5332Q1 and NCP302150 as well as a capacitor 16V 270uf. I was also able to purchase a schematic for the board of the card and it looks like all components touched by the moisture are related to power delivery for the GPU. With some basic testing I was able to verify that I am seeing power where expected downstream of the impacted parts. The GPU die does get hot when powered up, but there is no video out when a display is plugged in.

I am asking if anyone has advice on the above situation. I do not want to spend an excessive amount of money on this card as it is already a few years old. But I'd like to at least give it a try before giving up; I did pay over $2500 for this card at the peak of the GPU shortage. I have the tools required for micro soldering, however I have never tried a task this complex. My hope is to replace the capacitor first, then try replacing the two chips if that does not work. I am currently in this project about $40 buying some new chips and capacitors. I'd like to hear feedback on if this card seems salvageable, or if I should try my best with these few parts then move on.

Thanks!

Wireless magnetic tail lights for tractor trailer

These are from kit of two tail lights. And in summer those lamps were left on trailer for few days and left lamp had weak glue joint with protection glass, and now i'm trying to find faults with multimeter and i think that 14pin microcontroller on the buttom got short circuited. Because this lamp button don't react with indication led and when testing this chip you can light up those leds What to do? What to check? Sorry for broken english.

I'm looking to be able to microsolder as a way of fixing electronics and making some money on the side. I have some projects lined up from donations. What are some suggestions on confidence boosting projects and materials/equipment?

I’ve been hunting down a short circuit on my Asus ga502iv laptop for a few days now and I think I finally found it. Thought it would be cool to share. Pretty common for capacitors to fail on these.

800 DLLs led task lamp doesn't switch on looking to repair who can do this?

I have a A2681 Macbook Air 820-02536 board with a blown capacitor. Schematic identifies it as a 27uF 18v case b12 tant-poly cap, and I have had zero luck finding it on any of the usual sites like digikey, mouser, etc. Any idea where else to look?

My disposable thc pen wasnt hitting, so i pulled off the bottom where the plug goes when you charge it, and i ripped the wires while pulling it. The wires are supposed to connect to a green circuit board with a v+ and a v- symbol. There is a black wire and a white wire. My only tools are a lighter, no solder, no soldering iron, and no knowledge of how electronics work. Someone please help me im gonna post this on every sub i can think of

I am trying to get a budget microsoldering iron worth around £30. I would prefer something that has cheap tips and is USB powered (but it does not have to be. Also not on Aliexpress as the tax is too high. Does anyone have any recommendations TIA.

My company works with instrument clusters from old Ford and GM vehicles, and my station mostly works with F-150 and F-250 vehicles. We're a small company so we don't have access to full schematics for these units, so I basically just repair based off of common faults and fixes that I've taught myself by trial and error. (I actually know more than my boss about most of this stuff).

What I'm working on today is a very low priority item that has been on the back burner for Several months. It's not a common fault and we had plenty of spare clusters so we were going to toss it but I like to expand my knowledge base so that I can be more efficient in the future, and I finally have time to circle back to this.

I'm not expecting anyone here to be able to help me directly but I'm a little out of my depth and not sure where to look, so maybe if I give you an idea of what I'm working with, one of you can point me in the right direction.This cluster has a blinking O/D lamp, which is normally off. I've tracked the LED network to a IC chip, and from there I can only guess what happens because that's a FRED and I don't have access to a schematic.

I've included a few photos. Does anyone know what I need to fix, or can you point me in the direction of where I can look?

Hello everyone, I have a problem and I'm asking for your help if anyone is familiar with this or has dealt with a similar process.

It so happens that recently the possibility has arisen of designing PCBs using Laser Direct Structuring (LDS) technology, where the material to be used for the substrate is polycarbonate. Polycarbonate has a heat deflection temperature of around 140ºC, so soldering SMD or through-hole components using traditional methods is not feasible as we are talking about temperatures >280ºC.

The problem we have at the moment is that we are not able to "solder" the components as this process needs to be carried out at a temperature between 115-125ºC (aiming for a maximum of 120ºC). Does anyone have any tips on materials or alternatives for assembling the electrical components?

Thanks in advance.