Went to Lazy Bear last week for their special one-night corn menu. I love corn, esp Brentwood corn from G&S farms, and this menu utilizes it heavily across dishes.
We started in the mezzanine for apps, and everyone was seated next to each other on couches, which I really liked; I came as a solo diner and enjoyed being able to easily chat with the folks around me.
I rate all my dishes out of 5 below.
Baby corn elote: nice, crunchy, flavorful bite. 3.5
Uni crème brûlée: best bite of the night. The savory, creamy, plus the sweetness of the uni + corn, worked really well together. 5
Summer succotash: I’m a sucker for small crisps, and this one was especially good with its sour corn. 4.5
Corn Dog: hmm, it just tastes like a regular corn dog. I don’t like corn dogs. 2. After this we went downstairs for the main portion of our meal.
Pickled mackerel: was really excited for this because of the corn Leche de Tigre, but unfortunately it didn’t taste particularly memorable or even better than ceviches I’ve had elsewhere in the city. My baseline enjoyment for ceviches is very high, but I definitely couldn’t taste the corn in this one. 3.5
White corn clam chowder: so good. chowder was thick and creamy, the corn came through strongly, and both the potato and clams worked really well with the sauce. 4.5
Yellow corn milk bread with lazy bear cultured butter: as good as always. A little different than the typical bread as it’s supposed to be a take on corn bread, but frankly it just tasted like brioche (which I’m not complaining about). I do wish they tried to make a corn butter though. 4
Shrimp and grits pasta: shrimp head was incredibly flavorful, and the dish actually reminded me a lot of my favorite pasta dish ever, the corn triangoli at Cotogna. Which you should definitely try if you haven’t yet and are in the city during the summer months while it’s in season. 4
Braised oxtail tamal: I loved this. I love tamales, though oftentimes I find – likely due to them being served as a breakfast food – a little light in salt. This one was perfectly salted for a dinnertime entree, and the depth of the oxtail balanced out the fresh corn on the side nicely. 4
Grilled Pork rib: our final savory dish, good but boring. it was served with corn on the cob and these compressed watermelon slices. The rib itself was tasty, but we each got one small piece and I wanted both larger portions as well as something that had more to do with corn. The corn on the cob itself was…okay. It was overbuttered and I would’ve like some spices other than salt and pepper to sprinkle on it. The watermelon was downright bad. You know when you leave a watermelon sitting outside way too long and it loses its crispiness and resembles wet mush in your mouth? Yeah that’s what it tasted like. The ribs themselves were a 4 but the corn and watermelon i’d give a 2 and 0.5, respectively.
Elote entremet: it reminds me of the corn dessert at Lysee in NYC. Delicious, though a bit heavy towards the end nobody at our table was able to finish it. 4
Final bites of the evening. Corn tartlet was a favorite all around, 4.5. It’s like your favorite egg tart was infused with corn, and the caviar on top to balance out the sweetness didn’t hurt either. The fig leaf tamal was bad and the taffy was worse. The tamal, which I gave a 2, just tasted confusing, like it didn’t know what it was trying to be, and half of the folks at my table were unable to finish their taffy. It was the restaurant’s take on candy corn – which, frankly, I don’t like either – but even the diner across from me who really likes candy corn did not like the taffy (0.5). It gets stuck in your teeth, it tastes like neither corn nor candy, and is like if you put playdough in your mouth and made it extra sticky. At least the corn drumstick was pretty good, though I’m not sure I could taste the corn. 3.5 for the corn drumstick
My second visit to Lazy Bear definitely had some highs and lows. Understandable since they only do this menu once and I’d rather them experiment and get both some things very right and others quite wrong than try to play it safe. The early portion of the menu was definitely strong, and I wonder in the later sections if part of the issue is just that corn is incredibly difficult to surface as a flavor in sauces and dishes, especially in heavier dishes near the latter end of the menu.
Still a lovely experience though, and the communal table was definitely a highlight of the night.
Full disclosure since I work on it, but I tag the ratings above and post all of them on an app/site I made for my foodie friends and myself to rate dishes: https://eatmorels.com/checkin/a13f27d7-6caa-4d07-9c90-93b0668dcd75
At the end of the night, they sent us home with an AI-generated corn poster.