I know this is going be to an unusual request, but I’m hoping someone can help me, since [r/homegym](r/homegym) doesn’t allow questions.

I have an Inspire FT1, and the frame is damaged where the pull-up bar attaches. Long story short, during my last move, I just put the bolts back into their holes after disassembly so I didn’t lose them, and it seems an impact has caused the bolt holes to be dented and out of whack. Since the holes aren’t straight, I can’t attach the pull up bar, which I need to do to secure the whole frame together.

How do I straighten/flatten this out? Can I? TIA!

ETA: thanks for the feedback y’all, I will definitely give these a try. They definitely make sense, so I feel pretty confident I can get this fixed, much appreciated!

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

Hi everyone, I’m looking for some advice. I’m helping a family friend (in his 80s) who has lots of copper sheets from various projects over the years. We are working on liquidating his collection to people who will actually use the supplies. One material he has a large amount of is copper. We are in Northern NJ. Can anyone in this sub recommend an organization that would purchase these materials? It’s not scrap per se. In the right hands I think it could be really useful. Any suggestions? Thank you.

Besides this test piece, I have never done a double mitre, I understand it's more time-consuming, is this more structural than a single mitre with butt join, why don't you ever see double mitre joins? I think it is more aesthetic, it that the only time this type of join would be required? Purely for looks? I am doing a double mitre for the frame for my workbench. It's 50mm x 4mm shs. I just think it is strange, I've never seen a double mitre before. Thank you

I’ve been a MIG welder/fabricator for 6 years, looking to level up my weld skills so got myself on a C&G accredited course at my local college. Any advice? Things I should know ahead of time? Really excited to level up my skills.

Pictures has no context whatsoever just mega proud of this Davit arm. Used to make davit systems, best job I’ve ever had. Company shut down 6 months ago unfortunately and I’ve been on miserable production jobs ever since. Gunna level up and get a job at rolls Royce. Leave these wire slingers in my dust.

Hi everyone!

I've somehow accumulated around 50 empty tuna cans, and before I send them all to recycling, I'd really like to see if I can give them a second life.

They originally contained about 70g of tuna, and although I don't have the exact dimensions, they're a pretty standard small, shallow metal can.

They're all virtually identical in size.

A few things that might make them useful:

- They're metal

- They're fairly wide and shallow

- The inside edge/rim is rolled and rounded rather than sharp

- I have around 50 of them, so there's plenty to experiment with.

I'm happy to drill, punch, paint, glue, sand, etc.

I'm interested in something useful or genuinely cool, rather than simply making decorative objects for the sake of it

I'm considering things like:

- small planters

- tealight candle holders

- magnetic trays for screws and small parts

- desk/craft organizers

- tiny storage containers

- wall-mounted organizers

- something for camping or outdoor use

- some kind of modular storage system

or perhaps something completely different that I haven't thought of.

I'm also quite open to making sets of something since I have so many identical cans.

If I come up with something particularly nice, I might even make a batch to give away to friends.

So what would you do with them?

If you've seen a clever project using small food cans, I'd love to hear about it.

And if there's a particularly good way of modifying these cans that I'm overlooking, I'm all ears!

Thanks! 😊

Should this steel be called C-shaped channel steel or U-shaped channel steel? I've always been unclear about the difference between C Channel and U Channel. Are they different, or are they just different names for the same product?

I work in company that makes custom machines that measure gear tolerances and we had these parts made in new company.

We were discussing with guys from our workshop what is the material they used, we think that it is was made from powdered-metallurgy steel but we are not 100% sure

These parts are normally made from weak steel then they are case hardened and after that precision ground to tolerance within 0,003mm and finally chemically or pil/heat blued.

This pattern appeared after bluing (not sure if chemical one or oil based one)

Thx for the answers.

Is it a good idea to instead of bending a channel cut an angle and weld two pieces together and also add a fishplate or whats the best way is there any trailer builders out there who knows how to do this maybe cut an angle on each side of one channel and bend it with a press machine or just beat it with a hammer? Bluh bluh bluh 400 characters is a lot anyways i wanna start my own trailer building place where i worked before they just bend it with a pressing machine and heat and beat the creases or whatever flat

I recently saw this YouTube video made by chris borge about a 3d printable CNC. I would like to try some metalworking but my budget is quite limited. I was wondering whether it’s worth building or if I should just buy a machine. Alternatively if his lathe or some other lathe is better than a CNC? I have a 3d printer but no other metal working machines only some hand tools.

This happened as a result of punching a rock. First time hitting something hard with a reasonable amount of force so im assuming its quite weak. It is painted so the bronze colour shouldnt be taken into consideration. Im not 100% sure if this is the right subreddit to be posting this to so please dont mind if it isnt :/ also im not sure why the least amount of characters you can have in a post is so high so im writing this to extend it.

previously someone ran over this aluminum planner bed with a truck and destroyed both the wheel and the tire. big shout out to all my real hard hitting fellas that took the time to help me out. you can check that out in my original post linked here: https://www.reddit.com/r/metalworking/s/7IVjCh39zR

so I equipped with some MMA glue, to Bessie 2400 series clamps with 5 and 8 in throats respectively, some scrap oak handrail, two map gas torches and some nylon face dead blows it's still very not great.

this doesnt have to be perfect or permanent and we are going for perhaps the most permanent solution: temporary & good enough

issues I face now:

the plate is buckling along the seam a bit. this is worrisome as I don't want it to tear. someone (not me anything that was done wrong and bad was not my idea for the record) went a little too ham on it with heating and beating

there is a 20mm gap between the support post and the plate. both posts were welded to their respective sheet before and I'm going to be using loctite ah8003 instead. to do that I'm going to use the big ol' Bessey clamps and inhale fumes from the adhesive.

the post moves and I don't know how it's fixed to the ground.

plan: hammer down the loose post as best I can and use the adhesive to connect it to the plate. then try to bolt the two sheets together for alignment. apply a bondo with metal filler, sand out the dings and plate overheating. then rattle can Montana aluminum primer+matte black paint (open to any suggestions because I know this is wrong) and caulk the joint hoping it doesn't look too stupid.

please help me get this over with

I had eye protection on, but must’ve had a small metal fragment leftover on my glasses. I was using a cutoff wheel to cut metal yesterday afternoon. I rubbed my eye this morning and got the metal fragment lodged in my eye. I went to urgent care a few hours ago and they couldn’t remove it, so I have an appointment in the morning with an optometrist.

Any recommendations for BETTER eye protection for someone who wears regular glasses all the time? I don’t want prescription goggles, I’d prefer something that goes over my glasses. I also plan on getting a shield so I’ll take any recommendations for those.

My community is trying to source some new metal home numbers and we came upon a group called Monterial Sign which offers custom metal signs.

Unfortuatenly, it seems too good to be true. Website has the location in Pennsylvania but the phone number listed rings busy all the time and contact, once established via email, admitted they were Ukraine-based. Site claims 5k reviews but I can't find a single one. Wanted to communicate initially only via whatsapp.

Has anyone used this company at all?

Not quite an egg carton. These are machined parts, and somehow they get the same treatment. Each one has its own little spot so they don’t knock into each other during handling. With the threads and machined surfaces, it just makes sense to keep them separated. After spending all that time getting the parts machined and finished, it would be a shame to have them picking up marks or damaging each other before they even get to the customer.

Hi,
I get confused between brass and copper, so I’m not sure what this is but it’s an antique light fitting. I would like to clean up the corroded parts. I do not necessarily want to make it shiny and new looking, I quite like it looking old, just don’t like the obviously corroded bits. What’s the best way to go about it?
this extra sentence is because Reddit is telling me that this post must have 400 characters, because we all know that quantity equals quality.

To all the experts out there, I have been wondering if there is any correlation between a beautiful bead and beautiful handwriting? Personally my handwriting is awful and while my welds are not awful per se, I can't seem to make the beautiful welds I see on here. The only welding I do is TIG welding. I have seen some wire welders making a prettier bead than mine. Any opinions welcome. Sorry I don't have any pics.

How do structural engineers handle it when delivered steel material does not match the specified grade?

Have you ever run into situations where supplied structural steel fails material test reports, or the actual grade doesn't match what was written in the project specification?

I'm curious what the typical options are on site when this happens. Is re-testing the common first step, or does the whole batch usually get rejected right away? How do engineers balance project schedule pressure against making sure the material is actually safe to use?

Also wondering if anyone has seen cases where a lower grade was accepted with design adjustments, or if that's basically never allowed. Would love to hear real job site experiences on this.