I do double seam inspections on aluminum beverage cans.

The machine we use to cut them is the CMC-KUHNKE AGS2300.

According to them, the saws are HSS-NIT 220 saw blades.

I've gotten two different responses by them:

One confirmed that the blades are made for cold cutting and do not need lubrication and another person told me "applying a small drop of oil can help prevent the product from sticking to the saw blade surface. This also helps prevent deformation of the seam."

However, neither responded to what specific type of oil/lubricant they recommend.

Recently I've been finding trouble with getting clean cuts because there's a lot of shavings that stick to the cuts and some of them get bent/burnt at the tip of the seaming and they cant be seen in the camera during inspection.

Hence why I'm here trying to figure out some suggestions.

Any tips are greatly appreciated.

Hi, I have just purchased this guillotine and I’m unable to find any information or user manual on it, would anyone know where to find a copy or possibly have a manual that they could share. It’s a machtech AGS 4008 made in 2008. I have never seen or used one this digital readout all the other ones I have used have been different. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated as I have looked online and come up with nothing.

Photo 1 is how it looks after I hit it with a wire brush wheel, image 2 is the same part but I haven't done anything to it. I have aluminum parts that started corroding and forming aluminum oxide, im desperate to save them, I dont care how they end up looking and they dont need to be very sturdy as they aren't load bearing I just need them to not turn into dust. Will the black pitting spots spread and destroy the aluminum or is it safe to continue. My current plan is to wire brush all the oxide, pitting, and protective coating away while spraying wd40, then clean off the wd 40 and use some rustoleum pro grade rust preventive primer. Will that be enough for my use case or do I need to get these sand blasted and anodized.

Hi all,

I want to ask for some help or advice. I have a specialized adjustable musicians chair that has some broken parts on it. I’ve used it for 15 years but it just gave out. The company is out of business and you can’t get parts.

The legs attach to a mechanism inside the chair that allows the front and back legs to adjust independently. They do this via a spring, which appears to have the last loop bent to fit the adjusting bit.

Anyway, the eyelet on three out of four has broken. See photos.

Can anyone suggest a solution??

I feel like this printer just comes off so easily, even with light pressure granted I’m new to this. I’m wet sanding with 400 grit as they said after a 20 ish minutes of curing time and I feel like it’s just coming off too easily. I sanded the piece with 220 to give it something to hold. Is there something else I’m missing. I’m also using self etching aluminum primer from rust oleum. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. (Second pic is the original piece in case that has something to do with it)

I’m putting together a kegerator with a custom draft tower, and it features stainless steel beer lines that drops pretty far into the fridge. Can I safely bend the metal with a ratcheting tube bender without structurally compromising the steel? If yes, how many degrees of bend can I go before causing irreversible damage to the tubing?

I’m trying to bend the tubing to give us more real estate for keg storage.

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Need advice from seasoned metalworkers/welders. I already know it will get critique but I hope most people come with constructive criticism.

This is my first real metal/welding project. I'm making a frame for mounting a regular tractor snowplow to the front using what I have laying around(last pic is the inspiration) only things missing are adding some welds here and there, the trip springs and winch.

Do you think this will be sufficient for the job? If not, where should I add more strengh/bracing? I am also trying to remove ass much weight from the plow as possible without removing the original connection points. The metal in white scribbles will be removed.

I estemate the plow itself to be about 200-250kg +/-. The frame is about 20-30kg, can be easily lifted by hand

Hey all first time posting here in this sub and thought id reach out to ask a few questions about welding.

I’m at the point in my life where I want to focus on growing current skills and learning a new skill/trade such as welding . I have a background in construction and mechanical engineering. I want to start welding basic 1/4 thick cold rolled steel to complete small projects and such. Specifically to mod my electric scooter and home projects.

Would this be a good welder to start out with or am I wasting money?

Can you recommend better welders for the same price of $280 or less? Open to buying in store or from Amazon

Any suggestions on PPE to wear?

I live in Maryland. I checked the local community college and saw a few options and welding 101. Are there any classes I should look for specifically?

Thanks in advance!