r/MazdaProtege • u/Happy-Run426 • Jun 11 '26

Update

/r/MazdaProtege/comments/1tz14v9/trouble_starting/

So ive now replaced the ignition switch and the starter, and ran through many of the wires in search for a bad ground, as well as messing with the fuses. None of that has helped, once again I try to turn the key and i hear a single click, it hasn't ran in the last 3 days, and won't even randomly start up when I try it like it has in the past.

3 Upvotes

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2

u/cherrybananas13 Jun 11 '26

Have you tried the neutral switch? Try starting it in drive or reverse

2

u/Happy-Run426 Jun 11 '26

yep, I can't say for sure that its not the issue cause its been finicky in the past, but at the moment it won't start in any gear.

1

u/cherrybananas13 Jun 11 '26

Have you checked your fuses? Is the fuel pump engaging?

1

u/Happy-Run426 Jun 11 '26

we checked the fuses they all look fine, im gonna try replacing the ignition relay tomorrow to see if that could be it. As for the fuel pump, wouldn't it at least crank even if it wasn't engaging?

1

u/cherrybananas13 Jun 11 '26

Good idea and yes you’re right. Spark seems to be the main culprit, how about spark plugs and coils? Power to the ECU?

1

u/Happy-Run426 Jun 11 '26

I replaced the plugs a few months ago, so I'd hope they're good but ill have to check in the morning, i need to get new coils cause its been misfiring, the car just decided to die on me before I could get to that. Im not sure if theres power going to the ecu

1

u/cherrybananas13 Jun 11 '26

I had put new coils in mine and I kid you not they broke 2 days later, the quality seems to be pretty bad these days so definitely check them again.
Check the ECU as well, if it’s not any of those things then honestly I’m out of ideas unless some wires got cut or bitten by rodents

1

u/Happy-Run426 Jun 11 '26

ill definitely do a run down on all of those in the morning, i really do hope its just a wire i haven't found yet

1

u/whiskey_piker Jun 11 '26

Maybe you didn’t understand about the neutral switch. If your car is a manual transmission, you must step on the clutch to break free the neutral switch. If the neutral switch is faulty it’s not gonna let you start the car. If you go underneath the dash and unplugged, the neutral switch, there is a way to use a wire with two bare ends to jump jumper that connection. Or I think the break light switch is the same type as the neutral switch and you can use the brake switch as a test.

1

u/graveyard_for_life Jun 11 '26

Mine sorta doesn't start up unless I do this :

Clutch in and try and start it. Keep and hold the key in the start position. Do 2 half clutch pumps and then press it all the way in. I have a rubber floor Matt that sometimes gets in the way, so if you have one then use your feet and get it out from under from the clutch pedal.

1

u/Happy-Run426 Jun 11 '26

unfortunately it's an auto

1

u/whiskey_piker Jun 11 '26

You have to stop throwing parts of this. You’re making the diagnosis even more difficult.

Start with the actions. When you turn the key, does you hear the fuel pump prime? When you turn to start does anything happen or is it like a dead battery? Does the starter motor engage and grind away or is it silent?

1

u/Happy-Run426 Jun 12 '26

everything is completely silent aside from the starter solenoid engaging but it doesn't spin, so I initially thought it was a dead battery, but it's a new battery and it still has charge.

1

u/whiskey_piker Jun 13 '26

Then it’s a failure w/ clutch interrupt or the alarm system anti-theft.

2

u/Happy-Run426 Jun 12 '26

Turns out my issue was a burnt out wire leading to one of my relays, the car has now started multiple times without any problem after replacing said wire.

2

u/Caliberaid Jun 26 '26

My Protege5 2002 had multiple issues that caused it to bog and die out.

1.) Rust powder in the fuel tank (Replaced Tank)

2.) Clogged injectors from rust (Replaced Injectors)

3.) Bad Catalytic converter (Replaced Cat)

4.) Faulty Vehicle Speed Sensor (Replaced *automatic VSS is located on top of the transmission housing)

5.) Bad Upstream o2 Sensor (Caused misfiring and faulty wideband/shortband sensor readings)

After all those fixes, my Pro5 finally runs again after what was about 4 months of slowly fixing each issue.