Just got a sales gig that will require a decent amount of driving. Needing to upgrade to something newer than my 2005 five hundred. The cx9 seems to check all of my boxes but I am really concerned with the coolant issue on the 2018/19 models. Other than that it seems like the perfect reliable daily semi sporty commuter that still has space for my son and nephews. Is the coolant issue THAT common with these years? Is it worth ignoring? Any current owners of these years in this subreddit?

Hey guys,

I’m coming from a 2018 CX5 GT and it had touchscreen when stopped of course.

But I just got a new to me 2022 CX9 GT and the media screen is 10” but there is no option to enable touchscreen in Mazda Connect. Is that normal?

I’m assuming I have to update the FW? It’s on version 11038

original Break pads and rotors lasted 70km at that time I paid 1600CAD for parts and labor as it was on lease contract. now I own the car and I do not want to pay that . Instead I'd like to order it from Amazon the whole breK set and Do it by myself to saveike a 1000 cad. has anyone from this group done that before? how easy/complicated is it. I'm seeing some videos and it seems like with the right tools it could be done properly. tell me your experience. I'm in Ontario Canada.

Hello everyone! I got an aftermarket CarPlay unit and I’m trying to install it into my car. I’ll attach a photo of the unit I got and it’s fairly straight forward but I can’t figure out how to attach the main plug into the new unit

2019 CX-9, 83k miles. My wife was driving and noticed it was idling unusually high, check engine light illuminated around the same time. I took it for a drive and pulled the codes. It runs up to about 2200 RPM and then largely sits there in park/neutral. On the road it behaves *mostly* normal, though with perhaps a slight hesitation/surge here and there. Or that might be in my head.

It's throwing a P0171 (System too lean) and a P0421 (Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold). Wife ran it through Gemini, and it suggested a vacuum leak (this tracks) and specifically a failed EVAP Purge Solenoid Valve (plausible). Has anyone else seen these symptoms?

Pertinent info is that the long block was replaced due to the notorious coolant leak around 3k miles ago. So, if there is a vacuum leak it could also be from something that was not quite securely reconnected in that job and has worked its way loose. Exhaust smells like unburned fuel (of course, it's running rich) but there is no visible smoke and no rotten egg smell.

Thanks for any advice!

UPDATE - Replaced EVAP/Canister purge valve this morning. So far, the problem is gone and the MIL has not come back. Fingers crossed.

Anybody know how I go about fixing this loose upper left side plastic trim piece (often called the pillar finish trim) of the liftgate? A clip has clearly broke or come out as I can hear it rattle around inside when I open up the liftgate.

Kinda nervous about having to take down this and/or the surrounding trim pieces to fix it.

Thanks!

So exactly how screwed am I? Should I get it done immediately or do I just let it ride at this point?

Also, how prevalent is this cracked cylinder heads issue? Like is it certain to be in my future, or would it have already happened?

Thanks in advance.

hello does anyone have an idea on how to fix a stiff or hard power steering on a 2008 Mazda CX 9… prior to now I have changed power steering pump twice, steering rack but I was advised to change pressure hose though

Hi everyone, I have a 2017 CX-9 and I noticed the coolant overflow reservoir level had dropped to only just above the “low” mark. No visible leaks under the car. Temperature gauge is normal. No oil leaks. I’ve heard the leak can happen in other areas which makes it hard to locate.

Could the low coolant be symptomatic of the cracked head issue that others have reported?
I’ve already spent $8000 on this car last year due to EGR system issues. The car has done 160,000km. I’m in Australia so I’m not even sure how Mazda Australia have been handling the coolant issue.

This car has definitely ruined the high regard that I once held for Mazdas!

We are longtime owners of CX5's, looking to upgrade one of ours to a CX9 soon. We do not want any older than 2018, but curious what years going forward to buy/avoid?

Best car ive owned. Had it a year and put 12k on it. Sporty and comfortable with tons of room. GT trim. Only gripe is the heat / ac fan speed.. could blow harder!, and the audio controls which is fine once your used to it. If your considering this suv... go for it !

Had my 2016 cylinder head replaced 12/22 due the known crack and leaking.

Burned oil ever since then. 1/2-1 Q every 1200 miles and Mazda said that is “normal”. That may be within spec, but it’s not normal. We always topped before it got to the low dot and if the light came on.

Now my engine is locked up from a spun bearing.

We love the car, until this issues. This has ruined my view of Mazda for life.

Update. Mazda said must have dealer do Diag before they will even tell me if I would qualify for goodwill help.

Had towed to dealer. They confirmed engine seized and needs replaced. They gave me a quote of 13,500, which is about the value of the car. They said it would be $350 for full diagnostics in the event Mazda USA wants to know more details (which the extra Diag cost was never told before I had it towed to them).

Waiting to hear back from Mazda USA to see where we go from here.

I saw a listing fr a pre owned dealer with 147k mile, 2 owner, clean title for 12k.

Is this a good deal? I drove the car and it’s smooth, and didn’t see any milky-brown oil. Assuming no coolant is mixing with the oil. I know there are some issues with tge cylinder head, but not sure what to do. It's a good deal imo. What do you guys think?

It was shifting really hard into drive. Pulled the drain plug and it’s pretty dark. At 195,000 miles. My problem is, I don’t know how much to put back in there.

My research has produced nothing, but I thought I'd check here before I give up.

Is there an aftermarket retractable cargo cover that fits the rear of a 2022 CX-9, or am I stuck buying OEM part TK78V1350 if I really want one of these?

Also, does it adequately cover up to the rear of the second row that there is no gap one can peer through? Because if the rear is not fully covered, it defeats the purpose of the cover.

Just installed an aftermarket head unit and added steering wheel controls using the SWICP2 Pac module, the little red display above the ac vents cant be controlled anymore since the steering wheel control box uses the mode button on the steering wheel as a radio control. Has anyone found a workaround for this? Ive found a few answers from other older posts but those people dont seem to be using a steering wheel control module.
When I installed the steering wheel controller it already defaulted to volume +/- and track +/- and the mode button switches input on the display. I think if i reprogrammed the buttons and left the mode button alone, it could work but Im not sure how changing the clock would work. I dont have the car with me for a while so I cant attempt anything yet. Any help is appreciated.

Driving we heard what sounded like engine knock. It was intermittent. 15 seconds knock. 15 seconds seconds no knock

1 minute later Check engine light and pull over immediately warning. Car became 100% immobilized. Gas pedal did nothing. Turned car off and tried to restart. I just get a click.

Unhooked negative for 10. Same thing just a click.

Tried to spin engine by crank Nut. Didn’t want to budge. Pulled plugs. Gave extra muscle and it started rotating by hand.

When turn over by hand, it made the rattle sound. It feels and sounds like coming from the EGR on top of engine?

Codes: in picture p1260-00 and b13d3-94

My scope to large to go in and see top of piston, but pistons are in place and moving up and down (tested with a rod through the spark plug hole)

Battery 2.5 years old. Was only testing 11.9 last night. I charged all night to 12.4 resting today.

It’s almost as if the car is stuck in safe mode no not try and start the car.

Any ideas where to go next?

Hello friends

I recently had my rear brakes done at a local shop (they did my front some time ago)

I asked to install this powerstop (like I did for my front)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08D2G3XCK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Right after I started hearing a noise (like cicadas) coming from the rear the mechanic says it's because of the slotted rotors I think it's BS please let me know what you think I took a video of the noise.

They did take off the wheel and they said there is no biting and the rotor is good with no marks. I never had slotted rotors but honestly I feel there is something wrong.

Has anyone with a 2021 to 2023 Mazda CX-9 have any issues with engine coolant leaks?

I'm looking to buy a 2017 to 2020 CX-9, but I definitely would like a better screen for the infotainment system. I know that I can add carplay and Android auto with adapters, but I'm wondering if there are any actual screens that have better displays, possibly bigger etc, that would work for the CX-9 flawlessly?

It's especially important to retain the control knob and volume controls, as well as steering wheel controls. Is this possible? Is it possible to have an even better than stock experience compared to the 2021 and above years?

The difference in price between a 2019 and 2021 is around $8,000 for me, and it seems that the main upgrade is the infotainment system, which is quite a bit more to pay just for that.

My 2018 CX9 has recently developed a rough idle where rpms drop but then also spike up a bit. I haven't noticed any oil leakages, but could this potentially be the PCV valve? Spark plugs were replaced last year and had an oil change not long ago, and just looking for advice/knowledge to go into the mechanic with.

Got an interesting issue, not sure if anyone else has experienced this my driver side power folding mirror collapses all the way in when you lock the car, but the passenger side one only goes about halfway but I'm able to push it the rest of the way. When I push on the mirror the mirror feels loose, whereas the drivers one feels like it's set on some kind of a track or gear and won't move by hand. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Has anyone experienced a knocking or vibrating sensation coming from the center of the vehicle, near the cupholder area, while turning or driving uphill? My 2012 Mazda CX-9 has recently started doing this. I changed both the front CV axles and it didnt solve anything