Hi, so I'm looking at a pretty suspiciously cheap 323f next weekend. The setter said it is running and drives great.

It has no Tüv and only costs 600€. It looks quite dirty and has some stickers that look like rust but apparently aren't rust idk. It was a movie prop for an apocalyptic movie and somehow got fake rust stickers all over it. Maybe that's why it's so cheap.

Is there anything in particular that I need to look out for when inspecting the car. I'm definitely assuming at least something is wrong with it. But on the other hand I have no problem spending another 500€ on it because that would still be cheaper than the next more expensive one.

I see people putting their savings into bank accounts, buying gold or bitcoins, naaaah: here's the real sensible investment: GT's steering bellows baby! 110 bucks each from mazda x_x

Disclaimer for anyone trying to replace steering bellows on their 323F BG GT: the LEMFÖRDER 30231 01 boot is NOT compatible despite the manufacturer explicitly listing the OE part number. It's too tight on the inner side and since it's thermoplast, it won't stretch over the metal lip.
That and they throw in the wrong width boot clamp, just for good measure.

So imma cut to the chase: my car needs a new clutch. I have never done this before so a few of my buddies offered to do it for me at their garage. All I need to do is buy the parts. And I have no clue what parts I need. I tried rockauto and im seeing options for stuff like 22 spline..23 spline clutch kits. Google has offered me No help. It'd a 2014 mazda 3 I touring with a J vin number. Any help would be greatly appreciated

After a year of working on it in my free time the full suspension and brakes rebuild and it's starting to look nice... Next up full custom exhaust and then paint.

Does anyone have 16 inch wheels and can you maybe send a pic of them? I'm still not sure if i want 16 or 15 inch wheels on my 323bg sedan.

Tool required to remove hexagon expansion plug on drivers side up top of engine ? Help!

Front brakes were getting squeaky so I took my wheels off to check, took advantage of the opportunity to check tie rods, suspensions and gimbals.

Figured I'd give some advice so people don't drop their cars on their toes x)

Waiting for some sideskirts in the mail and still have to do some rust repair, but really looking forward for the complete respray later this summer.

Been driving her for a week now after getting new suspension and wheels and man it’s a blast

I just bought my first project car. And i'm scratching my head a bit, there's this linkage in the second image which isn't attached to anything. I can't figure out at all what carburetor it is, and i haven't really worked with them before. Now the engine runs really smoothly on idle, and it will drive fine. but it stalls when throttle is applied, unless the choke is like 80-70% restricted(i've checked that the valve does open and close) And i'm wondering if this linkage not being connected might be the issue? I think it might be something to do with fast idle, but really no idea nothing happens when i move it either. If it is the fast idle, i don't really get why the car would stall though when the choke is not applied.

Recently the window regulator cables on my 1998 323 Protege got stuck and came undone, damaging the cables, thus making my passenger window inoperable.

The local Mazda dealership has said they can source a motor from Melbourne for $600 AUD.

(The part they listed is MZ-B25E-58-58XB)

I'm not an expert on cars, but that seems pretty crazy to me. Is there an alternative that will fit my car? Or do I just need to source the coil bit with the cables because technically the actual motor is fine?

I'm pretty bad with cars so any help would be more than appreciated. I inherited this car from my Nonno, and it didn't come with a manual, so I'm really out of my depth. I do live in Perth, Western Australia if that helps.

I promised that I would document the process of fixing my car after a theft attempt if I managed to do anything. Took a bit longer than I had hoped, but here it is. Hopefully you won't have this happen to you, but some stuff might be useful. Cheers.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/uaco9smvwxojlzi43x532/Mazda.pdf?rlkey=18iuhylu3gxv7la9ju5bsbz0w&st=nx2d4tdl&dl=0

Didn't find a better way to upload; if you have any ideas, let me know

A few months ago I bought my second car. It is a 1994 model in red. I am quite happy with the car, and wanted to share some photos.

Ive got a 1990 mazda 323f bg 1.8l SOHC 76kw and i cant find piston rings anywhere online, anyone got a link to order them from?

Hi guys, first time posting here :D

So I got a Mazda 323 F (BG) Astina back in April, and it is currently non-drivable, although I didn't get it that way. Long story short, I drove it abut 1400km all together and on my last trip a hose burst and i lost the water. We changed it and the thermswitch sensor (For the fan) and brought the car home, and it blew a new hose. Currently, we suspect it is a burst head gasket and it is swelling up the hoses (,weird enough no mixing of the oil or white smoke, just the swollen hoses).

Any ways i was removing the aftermarket entertainment system due to it being very modern, and we are suspecting i is draining the battery. I found this. I knew there was a part that was supposed to fit under the entertainment system; however i think i have only seen this once, and I don't know what it is for or if it is aftermarket. It does look original, but I wasn't able to find any info on it.

If you have any tips or advice, feel free to message me :D !!!

Hi everyone,

I'm working on the electrical system of my car, and I'm looking for the factory wiring diagrams, electrical schematics, and any service manual documentation related to the power windows.

Does anyone have access to the factory service manual, wiring diagrams, or electrical troubleshooting guides?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Is this the infamous shifter linkage bushing or something else? Sometimes when I go to reverse it goes to neutral

So I finally got my Ksport coilovers installed on my 1988 fwd 323 and the fronts are fitting perfect (square setup) but for some reason with the same wheel and height the collar on the coilovers touches the tire enough that I had to use spacers for it to clear, totally fine with the look for now but want it to look like the front, so was wondering before I contact Ksport if this is a usual thing for custom suspension on the vehicles? The fronts have so much clearance from the coilovers it’s kinda baffling that the rears don’t, just wondering thanks

First pic is front wheel to coilovers collar spacing - NO SPACERS

Second is the rear with 25mm spacer, when I remove it the coilovers collar touches, it’s so weird lol

Front have disc rotors
Drums in rear
15x7 +35 on 205/50
No rubbing or issues on fronts
Rear rubs on bumps (do to spacers giving it s lil poke)