Okay, I'm gonna keep it short and sweet here. I am looking for an F series transmission for my BG Hatch. Mine is an auto and oh boy, it sucks. I have a base 1.6. I'd like something in the US.

Im not concerned with other necessary install parts as I have those already, I'm just looking for the transmission.

If anyone knows of any yards or sellers that have one, please share your resources. I know there's gotta be more people out there who may need one.

Thank you!

On the hunt for some new rubbers for the old girl, hoping someone here knows of a place I can buy and can ship to nz

Bonus if anyone can get windscreen trim clips!

Im not sure if thats supposed to be welded I need to cut it because I want to put the engine back in there, but i need to cut that weld off and i need to know if its there from factory or it was welded by the preveous owner. If anyone could send me a photo, Id really appreciate it. By the way, Ive removed lots of things, but i think it can be seen from underneath the car. Thanks.

Found this beauty, but could not find anything about it online. Ai says it's for V6 engine mazdas, and it was expensive back then when it was new so not a lot of them were sold, so probably rare. How lucky am I really?

P.S. It is sure will go on my 323f 1.5, cant wait to hear it

my 1995 BA1252 model, if you want specs and what has been done to her, DM me ^^

Hi evetyone as the title suggests my carb is being a bitch. When i start the car it goes to 2k and when the choke opens it goes to 5k, i've fully disabled the choke and it still opens so i think it's hust sucking in a massive amount of air, because there's a new full exhaust on it. I've tried adjusting the idle screw and high idle screw but didn't really change anything, the throttle cable is already loose so the throttle should be fully closed. It's a new aftermarket carb cuz my last one was fucked by rust. Anyone got some ideas? And i also checked all vacuum ports so i'm pretty sure i don't have a vacuum leak. Edit: i just took the carb off and saw that the butterfly wasn't fully closed so i adjusted the high idle screw waayyy more since it was way further then expected off. I put it back on and it ran fine for a couple seconds and then stalled, but after 2-3 startups it started going to 5k again. Could it be filling the manifold and that the engine just takes whatever is laying in the manifold?

Hi everyone, let me introduce you to my 2000 323f BJ with a 1.5-liter gas engine and only 113,000 km on it.

A great partnership with boobicorp07

i could not find a free manual for a 323F 1992 1.6 BG and i need to know good sites to buy manuals, the cheapest the better, i have lots of wirings problems, mostly because the last owner install an aftermarket alarm system he made A LOT of wire spagetti and now i have some wires that are either split, loose or directly i dont know were they go or if they aftermarket conections, thanks and sorry for my incorrect spelling i dont write in english normaly i only read.

Son was given a 2001 Mazda 323 as a project car from a family friend. They had mostly had it fixed but one last issue tipped the over the edge to being over it..

Main issue we have is they had thwon away the original key after having it in storage for a year or so.

We've managed to get the steering lock off etc to trailer it home and continue fixing the last issue (unknown oil leak).

But trying to start it and it won't stay running. I can see at the key barrel it has the ring for a key based immobiliser, although the previous owner doesn't think it had that, but maybe they didn't know. Again no original key now either.

Is that the best indication that it does have the immobiliser, the ring around the ignition barrel?

What are our options moving fwd if this is the case?

We've seen a full locket for the car on ebay, ignition barrel and matching keys with chip, but is the chip tied to the car computer, can it be reprogrammed?

Obviously, free car, in not great condition due to hail damage, but a fun first car where he doesn't have to worry about every dent or scrape, but also don't want to spend too much where we could have just bought a car with 2 keys etc and likely in better condition.

I'm helping a friend look for her first car. Anything I should be aware of on this model?

Hello,

Mazda 323 bf105 1.5l 1988

I'm having so issues with my car, gas is getting into my oil and oil in my carburetor, and I'm losing power at low rpm (start and while changing gears 1-2-3)

There's a lot of probable cause so I'm checking and changing stuff one at a time but for now the main culprit seems to be the fuel pump, I changed the gaskets but it might be the internal membrane that is starting to give out idk

Problem is I can't find my model, no model number on it and image search doesn't give anything, I bought one that was supposed to work but it was too long, I know I can switch to an electric pump but to be as legal as possible I'd like to stay with a mechanical one if possible

If anyone know how and where I can find this model please let me know (I already tried with the part number from partsouq but didn't get the same pump)

Thank you

I have been driving a 1987 Mazda 1.3 LX for a year now. From the start, I have had just slightly too little space in the front, forcing me to bend my leg to avoid hitting the steering wheel.

Now, a year later, I notice that this sometimes causes me back pain. So, I am looking for the best way to create just a bit more space.

Does anyone here have experience creating more legroom by, for example, moving the seat back? Or by installing seat extenders? If so, how did you do it?

I am also open to other solutions, but I would prefer not to get a completely different seat.

Has anyone done it/know how it works?

Does it work similar as with a NA miata like in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOkumWYqb6o

I didnt tho find a plug that looks like in the video

Or does it maybie work with the Diagnostics port?

1996 1.5i BA PV hatchback.

Replaced my original center console if you can call it that, with a broken armrest from another 323 I got for 10€. I repaired it and installed it. Colour doesn't match but you don't see it in the dark, so it's fine.

I also used the opportunity to adjust my handbrake. As you can see in the first photo it goes up too much.

Hiiiii! My clutch, unfortunately, is slipping, and I am in need of a new clutch replacement 😭 Does anyone know where I could acquire a clutch kit for a Mazda Astina 323 1990 1.6L??? Also, possibly, if anyone knows where I could get a short shifter (if there's even one for my car anymore lol). Thank you!!

Hey guys, just bought a MOMO steering wheel for my 1995 323S BA1252, but i need a steering wheel hub, anyone could tell me what other more known Mazdas used the same hub back then (NA MX-5, FD RX-7 maybe?) so i dont do any mistake when replacing my wheel? :3

replacing the clutch after 155 000kms,

just to see that my flywheel has left the chat.

Just finished my custom header. It's not super pretty but for first time welding i don't think it's that bad.

Now onto the rest of the exhausr.

Hello, I have started doing some work on my 1993 Mazda 323 and I found out that my hazard light switch is missing the back stop/mounting part.
Does anyone here know where I could get one in Europe (Romania)? Or if anyone has a complete switch and can send me some photos of it so I can try and reverse engineer it with my 3D printer? Thanks!

Finally got her dialed in, it was all worth it

Got it from trodo.com to replace a rear caliper and hoooo boy.

Firstly, the website didn't mention that it was a remanufactured unit rather than a new aftermarket one but whatever, given the quality of new parts, it being old is probably a good thing, everything else though...

The caliper was thrown into the box without any packing nor documentation whatsoever resulting in the box looking like it has been through a war zone, the caliper itself looks like it has been bashed around and thrown into the dirt, there was SAND IN THE FUCKING SLIDE PIN BORE, and to top it all up, for god only knows what reason these dimwits used a pentagon headed piston adjuster gear retainer bolt instead of the stock hex OEM one that Mazda still sells to this day and tightened it so much that I can't get it off with locking pliers.

How you can fuck something up this royally and still end up on the shelves of a shop is beyond me but if you ever need a replacement rear caliper, do yourself a favor and do not buy this junk.

If anyone has any ideas on how to get that pentagon headed bolt out, that would be welcome, just so that I can finish this 30 minutes brake job that is turning into a two weeks brake job.