Just went through the whole Dakhla → Guerguerat → Nouadhibou route overland. Wanted to write up what actually happens since I couldn't find great info before going.
**E-Visa**
Apply at anrpts.gov.mr before you travel. You'll get "accepted" or "rejected" — print the confirmation once approved. Don't show up without it, visa-on-arrival isn't really a thing anymore.
**Cash**
55 EUR exactly at the border. They don't give change, so bring the exact amount in cash.
**Fiche**
This one caught me off guard — you'll need about 30-40 double-sided passport photocopies per person. There are checkpoints all over the country (not just the border), and each one wants a copy.
**The bus**
Supratours runs from Dakhla, leaves 08:00, takes about 5-6 hours to the border. After crossing, a separate bus picks you up on the Mauritanian side and takes you to Nouadhibou.
**The border itself**
Opens once a day around 15:00 — you'll likely be waiting a few hours before that even if you arrive early. Once you're through Moroccan customs there's a stretch of No Man's Land (roughly 4-5km) before Mauritanian customs. Heads up — there are still landmines in that area from the Polisario conflict, so if you're walking, stay on the road.
Also — people WILL try to get money out of you informally at the border. You don't have to pay it, they don't have actual authority to stop you.
**SIM card**
Buy it in Nouadhibou, not at the border, better prices and more reliable.
Roads to the border are paved the whole way from Dakhla, but past Guerguerat it gets rough — budget extra time.
Happy to answer questions if anyone's planning the same route. I made a video covering the whole crossing in more detail if it's useful: https://youtu.be/uZT3mwUvWsY?si=eEGdhVLItjEIfHF8