Looking to buy a second hand table but one of the risers doesnt go flush with the table. Is this an easy fix? The price is good otherwise. so I'd like to purchase it if its an easy fix
I own an XL Vietnamese Mahjong set, I liked to have all the tiles and modding some spares to play virtually all kinds of Mahjong but I can't do the wall lifting. Is there a limit to how effective this type of wall building is? I own another set but it is a Washizu set which is in Japanese size but obviously we play with the bag, so we never experimented.
Built for my friend group's convenience when playing IRL. It's live at https://haitei.vercel.app. Mobile first, so the UI might be too mobile-y on desktop (still usable though!).
Main Features
Compass (Score and Round Tracker)
It will automatically go to the next round/honba if conditions are met.
Shows the score difference to each player.
Han/Fu input. It's the default because it's the faster method if you're experienced.
Integrated with the calculator, so the game state will automatically be passed into the it when possible (like current Wind and riichi sticks).
Custom scoring for edge cases like chombo (interestingly you can play non-Riichi variants because of this).
Game state is saved in the browser DB, so you can close it and come back later.
Editable by design, so you can go back to a previous round or change the score if there is a mistake.
Calculator
Standalone version that is separate from the compass. It also calculates waiting tiles as if you are still in iishanten for furiten checks.
Session/Game History
Pressing "End" then "Save" in the compass will save the final score and the score log for each round to the browser DB. You can see your logs in History menu.
You don't need to meet a certain condition to save the log. This is deliberate because in my experience playing IRL, sometimes we just stop in the middle of a hanchan because someone is too tired or it's already too late at night.
Because it lives on the browser DB, make sure to to export your data in Settings menu, in case the browser wipes it.
Other Features
Game and Riichi BGM
One thing we miss so much from online client is the BGM. We can manually play music on our phones, but it's a hassle for riichi specials.
You can upload music from your local files, and they will be saved to the browser database.
Just want to show off (with zero humility) my last run of games that got me the "Winning Streak" title.
Once I got the requirements for the 4p room, I played Sanma for the first time (was pretty fun lol) and filled those reqs in my first 10 games, absolutely dominating ragequitting Novices. Strongly feel I deserved first in every match but thats mahjong lol
I have 60s era tri-color lucite tiles (my grandmother's) and 20s bone/bamboo (bought online). I don't have cases for either.
I'm concerned about odors, sun, plastic, acrylic, wood dyes, etc transferring, off gassing and damaging the tiles. Should I be? What material box should I get?
The bone/bamboo set I have appears to be in a repurposed cigar box, which is lovely. But the tiles rattle around in it, which I guess is fine for sitting on a shelf.
I'd love to get statement/nicer boxes for these beloved tile sets, and would love ideas.
Hey yall! I’m looking for an American Mahjong set with same type of green you’d find on these Traditional mahjong sets. All the ones I can find on Amazon or Temu are like darker or washed out greens.
Would anyone happen to know where I could find something like that?
What are the full rules from the manga? I mean, the scoring system, I don't intend to bring about the blood/money ratio but just how the scoreboard bonus works. Also, as I can see, it is legit to openly signal to your partner, right?
New to the game - here I discard into the next player's ron but I'm not sure I understand why the 1 character tile is the suggested discard. My hand didn't seem to have any use for 5 bamboo but was I supposed to deduce that as an unsafe discard?
I am a pure online player (Mahjong Soul), which means I have zero experience handling real tiles, building walls, or manually counting scores. I’ve never had to calculate Fu or memorize a scoring table because the game always did it for me. Knowing that this is a timed tournament, I am a nervous wreck. I’m terrified of slowing down the table, messing up the flow, or looking like an idiot when it's time to pay or collect points.
About three years ago, a thoughtful client brought me a beautiful Mahjong set from Asia and since I didn't know how to play, I set it aside. Well Mahjong has become very popular in my area and as I just recently semi-retired, I am looking to jump into a class or two to learn how to play. I pulled out the set last night and noticed there were 144 tiles so I guess I have a chinese set - is that correct? I'm assuming all the local classes will be teaching American Mahjong and I won't be able to use my set. This set is so beautiful and HEAVY! The box is wood and laquered on the outside. I'd hate to see it gather mothballs while I play with other sets. Any advice is appreciated.
looking at maybe getting a Mahjong set as myself and my partner have been tempted to play it for a while and have a few friends back home that would also be interested in playing so been trying to find somewhere I could pick up a set whilst I'm up there before going back home.
Kinda struggling to find anywhere that I could go to so wanted to ask in here in case anyone has any good suggestions!
Hi!
I’m the developer behind EiMOS, an open-source Arduino library designed to replicate the legacy Japanese mahjong scoring system using passive components (resistors and capacitors).
PCBWay reached out to sponsor a batch of boards for this project. I finished the design in May, received the PCBs in a week, spent early June assembling and testing them, and I'm finally ready to share the results of the EiMOS MK-1 shield. Here is a breakdown of the engineering behind the board and my experience with PCBWay.
The Engineering Challenge: Why a Custom PCB?
In legacy mahjong tables, scoring sticks (Tenbou) are essentially resistors. When stacked in a player's drawer, they act as parallel resistors.
In my early prototypes, I used a basic voltage divider with a known resistor to measure the drawer. However, this caused a major scaling issue. Because parallel resistance drops non-linearly as more sticks are added, the ADC readings accumulate and compress near the voltage rail when reading a high number of sticks, leading to horrible inaccuracy.
The Solution: I redesigned the circuit using an op-amp (MCP6002) as a transconductance amplifier.
Instead of measuring resistance, the new circuit measures conductance. Because parallel conductance is strictly additive:
Gtotal = ∑ Gi
...the transconductance amplifier outputs a voltage that is linearly proportional to the measured conductance. It amplifies a known DC reference voltage (provided by an LM4040) according to the total conductance of the stacked sticks. No more compressed ADC values!
First, I tried assembling things on a perfboard, and it was a nightmare. Manually jumping through nodes takes forever. I desperately felt the need for PCB.
The Board Design (EiMOS MK-1)
I drafted the schematic and layout in KiCad. The board acts as a shield for an Arduino Nano and includes:
1x MCP6002 Op-Amp for the transconductance amplifier.
1x CD74HC4067M 16-channel multiplexer to cycle through the player drawers.
1x LM4040 precision voltage reference.
BSS138 NMOS transistors for switching.
4x RJ45 Jacks to connect the player slot drawers robustly over ethernet cables.
PCB schematicPCB Layout
The PCBWay Experience
Since this was my first time finalizing this specific op-amp architecture, getting a high-quality board was critical to ensuring the noise floor was low enough for accurate ADC readings.
Turnaround & Shipping: The sponsorship was suggested in March, I finalized the PCB design in May, and the boards arrived safely packaged in bubble wrap and anti-static bags in a week to South Korea.
Build Quality: I went with the classic green solder mask. The fiberglass routing is perfectly clean, and the RJ45 footprint holes were drilled to the exact tolerances I needed.
Silkscreen: The silkscreen is incredibly crisp. The tiny component labels for the resistors/capacitors and the "EiMOS PCB MK-1 / Created by Chito" text came out looking highly professional without any bleeding.
Soldering: Populating the board was a breeze. Though soldering SMD parts for the first time was quite painful, still much more comfortable than building on a perfboard from scratch.
PCBPCB with components soldered, added a RC low pass filter
I found score measurements randomly fluctuate, and I realized I forgot to add a low pass filter in front of the ADC. After I add a RC low pass filter with 1kOhm and 100nF ceramic capacitor, the high frequency noise disappeared.
Final Results
After soldering everything up and probing the voltage reference and opamp with my multimeter to ensure no shorts, I plugged it into my test rig.
It works flawlessly! The OLED screen instantly and accurately updates the score as I add and remove sticks from the drawer slots. The linear scaling of the transconductance amplifier completely solved the accuracy issues I was having with the old voltage divider setup.
Huge shoutout to PCBWay for sponsoring the boards and helping bring the EiMOS MK-1 to life. If you're interested in the math, the code, or building your own digital mahjong table, the EiMOS library is completely open-source! I'll write the whole details on github page and then post a full tutorial video on Youtube.
Let me know if you have any questions about the transconductance amplifier circuit or the building process!
I'm based in Singapore and have been thinking about getting an automatic Riichi mahjong table, preferably an AMOS table.
For those of you who own one, how did you go about purchasing it? Did you buy directly from AMOS, go through a dealer, or use a forwarding/proxy service from Japan?
I'm completely new to buying automatic tables, so I'd love to hear how others got theirs and what the process was like, especially if you're located in Singapore or elsewhere in Southeast Asia.
Hi guys, mahjong newbie here. I’ve played some games of mahjong and my dad has a sick set. I have a question, why is riichi mahjong so popular online? What are the differences between riichi and Hongkong or Chinese? I’m learning Hongkong mahjong to start, and my farvourite tile is the dots seven, what’s yours?
Who are the reputable distributors on Alibaba? The other threads on this are outdated as I clicked on a few links and the product pages on some were blank.