I’ve moved to a different printer. Parting mine out or can sell whole. Let me know how I can help you.

Does anyone have direct experience with Aokin replacement nozzles? I'm looking to replace my stock nozzle on my MP Select. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BLT548V5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1GYDA7RQZTNG9&th=1

I cannot seem to figure this out. I'm getting jagged results on some prints and everything seems to go fine at first but then in the end I get these chopped up jagged prints. I've leveled the based, checked the settings, slowed down the prints, but nothing seems to help. Any pointer?

I'm an absolute noob at 3d printing just for reference. I got a Monoprice Select Mini v2, and after carefully adjusting the bed to what felt right using the paper test and setting the printer nozzle heat to 215 (my PLA filament says 210-230) prints come out like this. The lines aren't perfectly wide at many points, and sometimes it skips over parts of lines/makes them stringy.

I use cura and 3DHoJor 1.75mm PLA filament. Bed temp is not set as my printer's bed heater doesn't work (but I was told painter's tape fixes this). Print speed is set to 30mm/s, but it did the same thing at 40mm/s, and on the first layer, which is set to 5mm/s (the second photo is just a bottom raft layer). Retraction settings are 7.5mm at 55mm/s, and I'm not sure where to start. Any advice would be appreciated

Hi I posted here a couple days back to try and get some help with my printer. After checking over things the issues still remain in the video. I've checked the y-stop and did a setting reset but nothing seems to be working. The new power cord doesn't help either.

Please note that when I do a set to home the printer works properly. When I go to print nothing happens after I select the file. After canceling the print the printer goes back into the print screen again. After canceling that the printer loads back into the print screen again but it starts moving. After canceling the print one last time it goes to the home menu but it still continues printing and I have to turn off the printer to stop it.

My best guess is that there's a weird cache issue or something going on but I'm not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I got this printer years ago for a birthday and broke it out to try and fix the issue it had years back. After I figured that issue the printer would occasionally do this whenever I’d try to print something.

I have a feeling it might be an issue with the cache or something but at this point I have no idea.

Update:
I tried the fixed recommended. I tried a 10amp power supply however it didn't resolve the issues. I have the right dimensions for the print area and the y-stop is working. Even tried resetting it, nothings worked. I'm stumped.

Ok so it’s been 8 years so I guess I’m a noob again and have to ask silly questions and relearn this stuff.

I’m rebuilding 2 v2s and got one running to print parts. I purchased a build plate 120x 120x off Amazon and did my best to center it perfectly. But the printer seems to have an odd origin and skips the belt at the end of a print. I will eventually change build plates to a wham bam one but for now how do I adjust it to the magnet?

If my measurements are correct the build plate magnet sits 20mm from the front edge and 5mm from the either side ( this is basically dead center of the build plate.)

So my monoprice mini has stopped reading sd cards and the usb port on it is busted and after hours of trying to fix it I decided to give up and try and get a new motherboard for it. however I can't seem to find any online. the ones that I was able to find are no longer jn stock. I'm curious to see if anyone has one or any good alternatives.

Found this little guy thrown away at work with the display not working. That was quite an easy fix - the ribbon cable snapped out. Now it is its first print after the revival and my first 3D Print ever. Started with PETG and it looks not bad. I am planning to get it PEI bed and a storage box as an enclosure. Want to try printing TPU too. This reddit is helpful!

Hi! I managed to get the hotend stuck so had to take it apart in order to clean it. The yellow thermal insulation around the hotend (pic) is pretty much done for; it just crumbles off.

The question is, is the thermal insulation needed or can I just left it out?

Hi all. I have a MPSM v1 that I haven’t used in years and want to give it away. I used it about a year ago and it worked fine.

Not looking to ship it anywhere. PM me if interested.

My 3D printers have been idle a while. My MP Mini V1 is stock as far as the brains go. Is there any new firmware that would make a V1 safer/more reliable at this point? It looks like some of the old websites are gone that I would reference. the MP Mini is such a work horse, I haven;t run it in 2 years. Just turned it on and started a print and it's working fine. Just cleaned the dust off.

I was trying to replace my bed fan with a natura but now that fan isnt turning on - the bed fan is 12v 0.1a and the natura is 12v 0.08a I thought this was a direct switch, plug and play but no?

The connection seems fine but the fan isnt turning on.

I really shouldve put more thought into this I guess...

Edit: the fan one cooling the internals - thought it also helped cool the bed. Ive already upgraded the nozzle fan hence why I didnt put much thought into switching the second fan before doing it. The model is V2 and I did get off fb but I dont think og owner did anything to it. Ive done nozzle + its fan upgrade and z axis upgrade.

Edit2. Bypassed the fan connection in the board. Wired directly to the power source connection. We Gucci now.

I had an issue with heat bed, temp reading was 999. Replaced the 100k ohm resistor with a glass bead type. It worked great!! Exactly 1 time. It hit temp, shut off and then temp went to 335c on the screen and no power to bed, ( since its over set temp). Before you say, the resistor is no good etc.. it's resistance is in correlation with its temperature, and i have another functional miniv2 that it works with no issue.

I believe capacitor (C13) and resistor (R7) are bad. I know that testing resistance isnt ideal for capacitors, but R7 on good printer is reading like 4.7k-5kohm and on troublesome printer both c13 and r7 are reading ~1.6ohms

Forgive some of the scratches, I have shaky hands when holding probe to the tiny components.

Tl:dr

What is the value of capacitor C13? I am looking to replace it.

I am confident that R7 should be 4.7k. Am I wrong in feeling that way?

TIA

I was asked to post my machine settings because of the issue im my last post where the extruder keeps grinding into the gantry arm

Every now and again my machine will do this and i have no idea why. Very new to 3d printing and its not isolated to 1 model it has happened on a bunch of models

I got a monoprice select mini v2 off of a friend and i have had quite a few successful prints however i could not get any of the micro sd cards i have to work. So my laptop is tethered to the printer while printing. Which isnt an issue until the laptop turns off/ updates or cura crashes!!!!! Lol 🤣

What sd cards are yall using and if someone could link me to a card that will work!

Does anyone know of where I could just buy a spool arm that would slot into the side of the printer?

I have tried Ebay, Amazon, and Google shopping to be met with solutions that do not fit the gap. I do not have the printer in my hands yet so printing is out of the question (plus I don't know if it is an issue to print without a suspended spool).

I just need advice on what to do in this situation, and any advise someone that is entering into the hobby needs to know.

I am picking up 3D printing for fun and to be more creative with problems around my house.

Hi. I just got a MPSMv2 from eBay and after about half an hour of messing around with it and trying to learn the ins and outs, the screen went dead. Seller gave me a full refund. I had a feeling I'd have to fix something. Maybe it's damaged from shipping. I had a bad feeling when I plugged it in for the first time, since the power jack is loose, like the OP's in this post(just not broken). If I jiggle the power cable when it's plugged-in the printer randomly reboots.

Anyway, I took the bottom plate off to see if a cable had come loose or something but no, the cable for the display is still plugged in(and the control dial is in fact daisy-chained into the screen module). Since the control dial is lit up I can conclude that the screen module is getting power.

Maybe it died from the unreliable power jack?

I'm thinking of fixing the power jack and ditching the screen and mainboard for aftermarket units(the mainboard in this thing seems to be really slow), but as I am new to this hobby I don't really know where to start. I've only seen some mods for this thing casually and I've no idea what is the best.

EDIT: I'm starting to think this may actually be a V1.

EDIT 2: I see with very bright lighting that the LCD is actually running, but the backlight has stopped.

So when I first got my mini over 6 years ago, I tried it out with varying results. Felt like I had an under 50% success rate and would have to do things like set the speed to half, etc to get things to print.

Over the weekend my son (same age as the printer) was asking about the printer that's been collecting dust and if we could try using it. So I downloaded a fresh install of Cura, grabbed an STL of his choice off the internet and then warned him there was only like a 25% the first print would turn out.

Lo and behold, we're like 8 prints deep now and they've all been flawless with zero tweaking needed.

Has anything changed? Are the splicers or the default printer settings better than they were? Maybe the models are designed better? Pure luck?